pocket_geek
Active Member
- First Name
- Curtis
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2019
- Threads
- 1
- Messages
- 25
- Reaction score
- 52
- Location
- Caldwell, Idaho, USA, Earth
- Vehicle(s)
- 2019 Ford Ranger XLT FX4
- Occupation
- Nerd
- Thread starter
- #1
Hey all, I thought I'd post my audio upgrade adventure.
I have a 2019 supercab XLT so no B&O. I have Sync 3 and the 8" screen, upgraded to Sync 3.4.
The stock system wasn't terrible, but I wanted better. And I wanted to do it retaining the stock look.
Parts List:
T-harness
Speed wire
DS18 loc/line driver. This give me a summed sub woofer output.
Kicker Key 200.4 4 channel auto DSP amp
Kicker Key 500.1 auto DSP sub amp
JL Audio C1-660 Components
JL Audio 6.5" sub, 6W3v3-4
Plyboard
Sound deadening material
Poly fill
20 amp fuse taps.
Power and Ground wire.
Other miscellaneous hardware...
First thing I did was use Forscan to disable the built in DSP and to enable line level outputs. In my testing using 0db test tones and an oscilloscope with line outs enabled the head unit produces no distortion even at full volume. Without line level outputs enabled distortion starts at 20 on the dial. Line level outputs appear to be 2 volt.
Then I made the dash side of the wiring harness using the T-Harness:
For power I repurposed the two 20 amp fuses in the fuse box for the B&O system I don't have. This makes it so I don't have to drill a hole in the firewall for power.
I repurposed the space under the rear drivers side seat for my amp rack. I put the jack and accessories in my swing boxes.
With wires ran and amps mounted it looks like this:
Everything just fits, and I can get to all of the adjustments.
Now onto the speakers. I ordered them from Crutchfield and they sent along very good instructions on how to disassemble everything.
The new tweeters fit the stock locations like they were supposed to be there.
Note: I didn't use the tweeters for the rear channels, I run those full range.
New vs Old Speakers:
They look nice installed
On to the sub. For the sub I decided to use the space under the rear passenger side seat. I took out the plastic bin and then sound deadened the rest to within and inch of it's life. I used the holes were the three plastic retainers that hold the plastic bin on to hold on the top plate I made. I drilled out the holes a little bigger and used threaded rivet inserts.
I did add polyfil and foam strips to the back edges of the mounting plate to create a seal., but forgot to take pictures of that.
Final product
Everything put back together, looks stock still except for the yellow speakers.
If you sit in that seat you can tell something is under it but it's not bad. ...I'm mean no worse that sitting in that seat to begin with.
I probably missed some steps.
Questions? Ridicule?
Thanks!
I have a 2019 supercab XLT so no B&O. I have Sync 3 and the 8" screen, upgraded to Sync 3.4.
The stock system wasn't terrible, but I wanted better. And I wanted to do it retaining the stock look.
Parts List:
T-harness
Speed wire
DS18 loc/line driver. This give me a summed sub woofer output.
Kicker Key 200.4 4 channel auto DSP amp
Kicker Key 500.1 auto DSP sub amp
JL Audio C1-660 Components
JL Audio 6.5" sub, 6W3v3-4
Plyboard
Sound deadening material
Poly fill
20 amp fuse taps.
Power and Ground wire.
Other miscellaneous hardware...
First thing I did was use Forscan to disable the built in DSP and to enable line level outputs. In my testing using 0db test tones and an oscilloscope with line outs enabled the head unit produces no distortion even at full volume. Without line level outputs enabled distortion starts at 20 on the dial. Line level outputs appear to be 2 volt.
Then I made the dash side of the wiring harness using the T-Harness:
For power I repurposed the two 20 amp fuses in the fuse box for the B&O system I don't have. This makes it so I don't have to drill a hole in the firewall for power.
I repurposed the space under the rear drivers side seat for my amp rack. I put the jack and accessories in my swing boxes.
With wires ran and amps mounted it looks like this:
Everything just fits, and I can get to all of the adjustments.
Now onto the speakers. I ordered them from Crutchfield and they sent along very good instructions on how to disassemble everything.
The new tweeters fit the stock locations like they were supposed to be there.
Note: I didn't use the tweeters for the rear channels, I run those full range.
New vs Old Speakers:
They look nice installed
On to the sub. For the sub I decided to use the space under the rear passenger side seat. I took out the plastic bin and then sound deadened the rest to within and inch of it's life. I used the holes were the three plastic retainers that hold the plastic bin on to hold on the top plate I made. I drilled out the holes a little bigger and used threaded rivet inserts.
I did add polyfil and foam strips to the back edges of the mounting plate to create a seal., but forgot to take pictures of that.
Final product
Everything put back together, looks stock still except for the yellow speakers.
If you sit in that seat you can tell something is under it but it's not bad. ...I'm mean no worse that sitting in that seat to begin with.
I probably missed some steps.
Questions? Ridicule?
Thanks!
Sponsored