anyone in here a ford tech? need help with troubleshooting asap

[Dahveed]

I would think thats one of the exact spots you wouldn't want to make a connection. You are adding more current draw to a known circuit. You should be making a connection upstream of the fuse at the battery with its own fuse.

That fuse sure looks blown in the picture. You may have a sliver of connection giving continuity and 12VDC but not enough current for the systems it feeds to.

It’s real hard to tell. I thought the same thing so I went and took a picture of mine.

It looks like it has solder or something on top which makes it look blown at certain angles.

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[puckdodger]

It’s real hard to tell. I thought the same thing so I went and took a picture of mine.

It looks like it has solder or something on top which makes it look blown at certain angles.

I look at it and see its rated at 522 amps so I will just show myself back to my seat until I learn a little more.

 

[JDowns]

It’s real hard to tell. I thought the same thing so I went and took a picture of mine.

It looks like it has solder or something on top which makes it look blown at certain angles.

The copper on the MIDI or Bolt Fuses is tinned and in this case actual Tin (SN). This protects against corrosion. Other companies like LittleFuse will have a specific alloy that affects the slow blow timing while also providing corrosion protection. The tin (solder) will have a much lower melting point than the actual copper so excess there is not an issue.

It may be just the lighting like you stated. Hard to tell with the picture provided.

Standard (not meant to be offensive) Ranger will have a 225 amp fuse here while a Tremor will have a 300 amp fuse as was noted by @JasonTremor.

OP should check the fuses below the main fuse box located next to the battery. See manual at page 247 / 248. There is a High Current Fuse Box below the main fuse box. This fuse box has high current slow blow fuses for the Body Control Module (BCM), Voltage Quality Module (VQM), Bus Bar to Power Distribution Box, and if you own a Tremor an auxiliary fuse and relay (hence the higher initial pre-fuse for Tremor Models).

Most likely blew a fuse down there, my guess given the dash errors the BCM fuse.

Regards,

 

[1pt21gw]

Oops.

First rule: Never use existing wiring and/or fuse connections. In other words, separate wiring and fuses are always a necessity!

Second rule: Co-locate ground connections near, or at, the existing battery's chassis ground point. and...

Third rule: Always wire is such a manner that you DO NOT bypass the BMS detector. This is typically a Hall device, installed as part of the battery ground connection (most Ford products). Attaching to the battery side of this device (ratter than the ground side as in rule two), will light every dashboard warning light!!!!!!

If you don't understand... Ford publishes a guide for installation of after-market devices from lighting, sound systems, winches, etc. If you're attaching to ANYTHING made of aluminum, you'd best download Ford's aluminum-body wiring instructions.

And lastly, if you just don't know about these things, pay someone who knows!

I can offer a little help, if you go here: http://www.k0bg.com/wiring.html However, understand, this is written about installing amateur radio gear, but the wiring scenarios are about this same for after-market devices.

Afternoon,

So I gather that it is okay to use one of these (empty ones on the outsides) for lights or audio amplifiers? This is a Bronco, and I believe my Ranger has a similar setup at the battery?

Thanks,
Jason

 

[JDowns]

Afternoon,

So I gather that it is okay to use one of these (empty ones on the outsides) for lights or audio amplifiers? This is a Bronco, and I believe my Ranger has a similar setup at the battery?

Thanks,
Jason

I would say so. Either Ford was nice to Bronco owners and gave them a handy OEM spot to grab power from a distribution block or more likely other models use those spots.

 

[1pt21gw]

I would say so. Either Ford was nice to Bronco owners and gave them a handy OEM spot to grab power from a distribution block or more likely other models use those spots.

Yeah, similar to the Ranger Tremor if you get the switches. Ford laid out six circuits prewired (even mine has it without the switches) everywhere. Cables just waiting to be connected all around it for accessories.

 

[theanswer3]

The copper on the MIDI or Bolt Fuses is tinned and in this case actual Tin (SN). This protects against corrosion. Other companies like LittleFuse will have a specific alloy that affects the slow blow timing while also providing corrosion protection. The tin (solder) will have a much lower melting point than the actual copper so excess there is not an issue.

It may be just the lighting like you stated. Hard to tell with the picture provided.

Standard (not meant to be offensive) Ranger will have a 225 amp fuse here while a Tremor will have a 300 amp fuse as was noted by @JasonTremor.

OP should check the fuses below the main fuse box located next to the battery. See manual at page 247 / 248. There is a High Current Fuse Box below the main fuse box. This fuse box has high current slow blow fuses for the Body Control Module (BCM), Voltage Quality Module (VQM), Bus Bar to Power Distribution Box, and if you own a Tremor an auxiliary fuse and relay (hence the higher initial pre-fuse for Tremor Models).

Most likely blew a fuse down there, my guess given the dash errors the BCM fuse.

Regards,

Yep that 3rd fuse box is a real pain to find based on the manual directions, but I did find it eventually, and I tested each of those by hand due to them being closed top fuses. I tested continuity on each one and they all passed. I do apprricate the info though, I'm pretty sure it has to be a fuse somewhere and will definitely end up being one if I take it to the dealership.

 

[Apples]

Why don't you take a photo of how you wired the devices to the battery. Please include the fuse(s) and ratings(s).

 

[ControlNode]

With your connection locations I doubt a fuse would blow unless you had a short in your new lighting wiring.

Some notes though: That ground should be on chassis side, not on the negative terminal of the battery. I don't think that should cause anymore issue than because the truck's electrical load not seeing the power draw it may not demand enough output from the alternator. So, you could end up loosing battery charge while the lights are on even if the truck is running; For the positive I would use the bolt a little up and to the left from the one you used of the most upper right bolt as those look to be unfused and then your inline fuse to the lights would be used.

What light kit is it? What Amperage are they expected to draw?

Also, if you had this issue 1 month ago I was in Bradenton, FL and would have driven up to assist. I have my scanning tools and laptop with me almost all the time. Perhaps there is a member still local to you that would look.

 

[Apples]

Yes, but with a few caveats.

Fuses must be used to protect whatever wiring you do, and fuse selection isn't necessarily based on the average current draw. Wiring should be adequate for the load. However, when installing devices like amateur radio transceivers and CB sets, the wiring size chosen should be done based on transmit voltage drop, and not the current.

It is best to connect the negative side at or very near the battery's chassis ground point. Unless you like dealing with things like ground loops, use home run ground leads, not the chassis.

 

[OFC Ranger]

This is the line that main feeds the rest of everything else on my truck as you can see my connection point is definitely not the one with the big fuse on it.

Myself and @Msfitoy probably run the most power intensive setups on this website.

 

[sklnbnz]

This is the line that main feeds the rest of everything else on my truck as you can see my connection point is definitely not the one with the big fuse on it.

Myself and @Msfitoy probably run the most power intensive setups on this website.

I am set up the same as you are in this photo with no issues.

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