Aftermarket Bed/roof rack system

[franciscoapg]

Yea this is basically how mine is set up. I have the Truxedo pro x15 cover that only hangs over the rail like 3/16” and a diy rack.

Thanks a lot for posting this--I had actually been wondering how you set yours up, since I know you've run your custom rack drilled directly into the bed. It looks like @clarue should be in good shape with either the ZROADZ or the PUTCO and his roll-up tonneau cover.

@HoosierT I would love to go back to having a garage with a welder, because I would jump on building a custom rack like yours (really like yours), but with enough clearance between the rack mounts to fit the rails on my preferred retractable cover (cover TBD). I've since lost that ability because I moved to an apartment without either, so I'm stuck trying to find an on-market combination that doesn't use adapters to mount the rack higher (think the adapters introduce a potential failure point). It hasn't been so straightforward because of the Ranger's bed rail setup and the fact that the retractable covers I've seen so far seem to take up too much of that limited bed rail space...

Sponsored

 

[HoosierT]

Thanks a lot for posting this--I had actually been wondering how you set yours up, since I know you've run your custom rack drilled directly into the bed. It looks like @clarue should be in good shape with either the ZROADZ or the PUTCO and his roll-up tonneau cover.

@HoosierT I would love to go back to having a garage with a welder, because I would jump on building a custom rack like yours (really like yours), but with enough clearance between the rack mounts to fit the rails on my preferred retractable cover (cover TBD). I've since lost that ability because I moved to an apartment without either, so I'm stuck trying to find an on-market combination that doesn't use adapters to mount the rack higher (think the adapters introduce a potential failure point). It hasn't been so straightforward because of the Ranger's bed rail setup and the fact that the retractable covers I've seen so far seem to take up too much of that limited bed rail space...

Thanks for the compliments. I feel like I'm always promoting it but I assure everyone I have no affiliation, just think they have a really good system; but have you looked at MaxModular? For your specific purpose, here's what I think you could do. get their rack WITH the standard brackets (pic below) and NOT the tonneau bracket. Pick up a tonneau like ours where it barely overhangs the bed rails. Cut the 90 degree bend off the bracket so that it doesn't have any bend downward, basically recreating the feet like my rack, then drill holes and mount it through the bed rail like mine. Then what you could do is simply buy three pieces of extruded aluminum and bolt them in the vertical posts. This second part is kind of hard to explain but I'll try. I'm putting another pic below to show you their sliding cargo tray. You'll see how it sits within the vertical posts and bolts in. You can just bolt the exruded alu. in using the same method. That would leave you with an extruded crossbar at each foot of the rack. The other cool thing about this setup is that the crossbars would sit really low, basically right on the bed rails so you wouldn't lose valuable space above them. I'm not sure of your exact use case but I can assume you're wanting to haul something over the bed and yet beneath the bed rack.

 

[clarue]

Thanks for the compliments. I feel like I'm always promoting it but I assure everyone I have no affiliation, just think they have a really good system; but have you looked at MaxModular? For your specific purpose, here's what I think you could do. get their rack WITH the standard brackets (pic below) and NOT the tonneau bracket. Pick up a tonneau like ours where it barely overhangs the bed rails. Cut the 90 degree bend off the bracket so that it doesn't have any bend downward, basically recreating the feet like my rack, then drill holes and mount it through the bed rail like mine. Then what you could do is simply buy three pieces of extruded aluminum and bolt them in the vertical posts. This second part is kind of hard to explain but I'll try. I'm putting another pic below to show you their sliding cargo tray. You'll see how it sits within the vertical posts and bolts in. You can just bolt the exruded alu. in using the same method. That would leave you with an extruded crossbar at each foot of the rack. The other cool thing about this setup is that the crossbars would sit really low, basically right on the bed rails so you wouldn't lose valuable space above them. I'm not sure of your exact use case but I can assume you're wanting to haul something over the bed and yet beneath the bed rack.

Great idea, you could do that same modification and make an RCI bedrack work (which are a little less expensive than either the PUTCO of ZROADZ), bolted to the top of the side rails

 

[HoosierT]

Great idea, you could do that same modification and make an RCI bedrack work (which are a little less expensive than either the PUTCO of ZROADZ), bolted to the top of the side rails

Indeed you could and I love the look of the RCI. For Fransico though, the MaxModular might work out better if he wanted to do the above with the extruded crossbars with how their feet connect. What's funny is that I really wanted both/either the MaxMod. or the RCI. However, what stopped me from either was that I wanted 10" high, which MaxMod sells, but they don't have a 54" option, which is exactly what I wanted. RCI OTOH, does have 54", but not a 10" rack...lol DIY it was.

 

[franciscoapg]

Indeed you could and I love the look of the RCI. For Fransico though, the MaxModular might work out better if he wanted to do the above with the extruded crossbars with how their feet connect. What's funny is that I really wanted both/either the MaxMod. or the RCI. However, what stopped me from either was that I wanted 10" high, which MaxMod sells, but they don't have a 54" option, which is exactly what I wanted. RCI OTOH, does have 54", but not a 10" rack...lol DIY it was.

I had looked into the KBVoodoo/MaxModular rack because I saw a couple of your posts suggesting that as a possibility. Unfortunately, I'm not looking to get the retractable cover to load gear on top of it, but rather just to avoid any prying eyes (and then hands) from getting in. I've had a bit of bad luck in the past and am thinking that anything short of a full metal retractable will eventually get me into trouble or render the truck bed a little lighter when I'm not looking...haha. I had also considered the tonneau adapters from both RCI and MaxModular, but honestly didn't love the look nor the thought that they could potentially be a failure point.

I think your point on likely needing to modify either the bed or tonneau makes a lot of sense--realistically, my best option may be to get a bed I can drill into the bed rails (PUTCO, or modify the base of an RCI/ similar) and then potentially modify the rails of the retractable cover. I could cut notches into the rails of the Retrax or similar and then fit the puzzle together. Definitely wouldn't be the easiest way of getting it done, but would be one way? I know the Retrax rails would require a decent sized notch to fit the 4 or 6 bases for a rack. I'll have to research if the rails on other cover offerings are narrower and might require less "adjustments"

 

[clarue]

I had looked into the KBVoodoo/MaxModular rack because I saw a couple of your posts suggesting that as a possibility. Unfortunately, I'm not looking to get the retractable cover to load gear on top of it, but rather just to avoid any prying eyes (and then hands) from getting in. I've had a bit of bad luck in the past and am thinking that anything short of a full metal retractable will eventually get me into trouble or render the truck bed a little lighter when I'm not looking...haha. I had also considered the tonneau adapters from both RCI and MaxModular, but honestly didn't love the look nor the thought that they could potentially be a failure point.

I think your point on likely needing to modify either the bed or tonneau makes a lot of sense--realistically, my best option may be to get a bed I can drill into the bed rails (PUTCO, or modify the base of an RCI/ similar) and then potentially modify the rails of the retractable cover. I could cut notches into the rails of the Retrax or similar and then fit the puzzle together. Definitely wouldn't be the easiest way of getting it done, but would be one way? I know the Retrax rails would require a decent sized notch to fit the 4 or 6 bases for a rack. I'll have to research if the rails on other cover offerings are narrower and might require less "adjustments"

The practical part of my brain that wants to try and save money says to go the modified RCI route with the 12" version, which i could probably talk my better half into now, but the included swing up side access doors and lighting with the ZROADZ speaks to a different part of my brain that loves additional features. Decisions, decisions.

 

[RangerCat]

Here's our kayak set-up. It's done and held up very well over a dozen trips so far this summer. We thought we would miss the space in the bed from the canister, but plenty of gear fits beneath it.

• Ford Embark LS retractable cover
• Yakima Overhaul HD racks
• Yakima JayLow kayak carriers
• Yakima FullSwing Hitch Mount Bike Rack

This is my setup exactly. I am a bit concerned about the front tie-downs though. Are you seeing any paint damage along the hood where the anchor comes out? I considered using those small loops that attach underneath the edge of the hood at one of the preexisting bolts but they are not long enough to give good clearance for attachment. It looks like you took the tie-down strap and just connected it under the hood somewhere. Would you mind showing me what you did there?
EDIT: I zoomed in and I think I can see the edge of am anchor loop sticking out. Is it attached via a bolt underneath or is it one of those anchors with the rubber tube that you close under the hood?

 

[Tim L.]

This is my setup exactly. I am a bit concerned about the front tie-downs though. Are you seeing any paint damage along the hood where the anchor comes out? I considered using those small loops that attach underneath the edge of the hood at one of the preexisting bolts but they are not long enough to give good clearance for attachment. It looks like you took the tie-down strap and just connected it under the hood somewhere. Would you mind showing me what you did there?
EDIT: I zoomed in and I think I can see the edge of am anchor loop sticking out. Is it attached via a bolt underneath or is it one of those anchors with the rubber tube that you close under the hood?

We bought loops and put them under the hood. We've tried them in various locations along the side of the hood and this is where it is now. We had it further up the side of the hood, closer to the windshield, but then the straps bounced off the window at high speeds - really depends on the type and weight of the straps and how far forward the kayaks are. It's easy enough to move as needed.

Looks like some of the strap rubbed off on the hood, but it looks like it can be easily rubbed off. Using these loops, the flat straps and loops do fray - a hook on a strap from the kayak might be more durable, but then you have to worry about the hooks tapping on the hood. The hooks and straps are cheap enough to replace as needed, I think. Let me know if you have any other questions.

https://www.rei.com/product/818227/seattle-sports-quick-loops-pair

 

[ldr01rl]

Well here's my next challenge. A SUP and a Yak need to ride on my ladder rack with the ability to take the carrier adapters off when I need to carry plywood. More to come....

 

[ldr01rl]

Solved my issue with 8 bolts and my old kayak rack order from Amazon. I'm not looking forward to putting the Hobie up there. That thing it heavy. The VersaBoard and the Sport Fisher weren't bad on my own.

 

[MattSucks]

Just added this over the weekend. Had to lower it 5 inches to get a tight fit. I’ll be carrying 2 Paddle boards, ARB awning and a Yakima skybox.

 

[ldr01rl]

Just added this over the weekend. Had to lower it 5 inches to get a tight fit. I’ll be carrying 2 Paddle boards, ARB awning and a Yakima skybox.

More pics needed please

 

[MattSucks]

More pics needed please

I’ll get some tomorrow when I can.

 

[MattSucks]

Here are some more angles. It’s a basic ladder rack that I cut the pipes going to the bed 5 inches and drilled new holes in for the bolts. I plan on painting all the hardware black when I get a chance.

 

[NickTheEnforcer]

Be advised if you want to install the roof rails & cross bars you will need to access bolts from the interior side of the roof under the head-liner. I know this b/c my factory black metal filler strips were flaking the coating off and the dealership got the replacement covered under the factory warranty. It had to be there two days b/c of all the extra interior work. The service advisor said the billable book hours were nearly 8 total and they ranger is the only current vehicle he recalls this on. Usually the replacement is a simple job done from the top-side only.

Sponsored