8492 - 2019 Ranger - Trailer Brake Controller Availability

Gizmokid2005

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Thanks.

I thought I read in another thread that the trim where the 12Vs are as well as one other piece of trim had to come off before the console trim would actually come out.

I need to take it fully out so that I can trim the underside and drill the holes.
Yeah, it's not a big deal, you can pop it out without unclipping anything. You have to do the same thing to replace the 4x4 dial, which I did, to add TM to non-FX4 trucks. It's so incredibly easy, unless you're taking it out of the truck to do the drilling it's really just unclipping.
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TechnicallyReal

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Thanks.

I thought I read in another thread that the trim where the 12Vs are as well as one other piece of trim had to come off before the console trim would actually come out.

I need to take it fully out so that I can trim the underside and drill the holes.
The trim around the shifter can be popped out easily, but the console itself is more involved. I took mine out here, although it turned out I didn't need to for the project I was working on: Wireless Charging Install | Page 10 | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com
 

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TechnicallyReal

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TechnicallyReal

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jcw001

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Yeah, it's not a big deal, you can pop it out without unclipping anything. You have to do the same thing to replace the 4x4 dial, which I did, to add TM to non-FX4 trucks. It's so incredibly easy, unless you're taking it out of the truck to do the drilling it's really just unclipping.
The shifter trim piece has to come out of the truck. I want to do the trimming of the support ribs underneath and drilling of the holes on a bench.

I will be doing the TM mod as well. I literally just watched the YouTube vid on that! :)
 

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The last piece of this puzzle is to find the diagrams to get up the trim panels to install the knob next to the shifter aft of the 4X knob selector. Once I find that thead, I will be ready for the install which I am planning for this Saturday (as I am also installing the OEM bed light kit since I'll have the battery disconnected.)

I am terrible with the search function though. :(
I put my knob in the spot where the 12v receptacle was on the drivers side. It actually looks like the factory did it and it is very easy to reach. Etrailer sells the mounting adapter.
 

TechnicallyReal

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I put my knob in the spot where the 12v receptacle was on the drivers side. It actually looks like the factory did it and it is very easy to reach. Etrailer sells the mounting adapter.
I did that as well except I didn't like the Etrailer face plate and modified the one that covers the 12V socket. Was a bit sketchy but came out nice! 8492 - 2019 Ranger - Trailer Brake Controller Availability | Page 32 | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com
 

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I did that as well except I didn't like the Etrailer face plate and modified the one that covers the 12V socket. Was a bit sketchy but came out nice! 8492 - 2019 Ranger - Trailer Brake Controller Availability | Page 32 | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com
That looks real slick! I thought there were 2 holes to drill? That is what the template that comes with the unit seems to indicate. 10MM for the switch and a smaller hole just above it?
 

TechnicallyReal

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That looks real slick! I thought there were 2 holes to drill? That is what the template that comes with the unit seems to indicate. 10MM for the switch and a smaller hole just above it?
I just did the one hole but I think there's another version of the switch where the light shines through a separate hole? On mine it just came through the collar or the button itself.
 

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jcw001

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Finished the install yesterday. It took many hours.

I mounted the dial in the 12V cover like @TechnicallyReal. This was a 302, so it did not have the silver bezel on the lid, but it looks good. I might swap for the rounded cover that has the Trailer Brake wording at some point. In order to center the knob, I had to use the dremmel a bit to open up the inside so that the casing could sit straight. I also had to pack out the sides with folded cardboard so that the clips actually had something to push against- they relied on the metal cylinder of the 12V accessory - otherwise the assembly would not have stayed in the opening.

There were only 2 wires up front to spice (blue and yellow) and man, are they a pain to work with. I used a wateproof crimp connection rather than solder. Again, something I might change, but the wires really are nubs and are not in a good spot to work. The lack of a plug in a truck as capable of towing as this ridiculous. There were 2 other wires that were wrapped with the blue and yellow, but there were no other wires on the supplied harness to have to connect... just the blue and yellow.

I decided to run the wires to the 3rd brake light. It was a really easy run. The pain was with the connectors themselves. That is not an easy space to get to and my lighting was horrible. I had some difficulty with the supplied black plug (female). I inserted the wires and when I went to depress the front, it would not budge.

I have not hooked up the trailer yet. I'm waiting for the TM 4X4 switch to come in and I am also installing the bed lighting kit before buttoning everything back up. I hope it will work!
 
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JimG_AZ

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My brake controller wires were very short too. They were a pain to get a crimp connector on. I too would have liked to have soldered the wires together, but they were too short. If they are going to leave us wires, why don't they add an extra 4"-6" to the wires? Or better yet, why don't they do what Toyota does and put a connector on the wires? Seriously, to connect a break controller on my Tacoma was easy as mounting the controller's bracket and plugging it in.
 

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