8020 Extruded Aluminum. Simple Shelf Across Bedrails. Advice?

[lazynorse]

I've got a Snugtop canopy but will soon order an OVRLND popup camper. Each theoretically accommodates a shelf across the bedrails. I'm thinking along these lines: span of ~60 - 62" parallel 15-series 8020 extruded aluminum, with maybe 3 pieces at 90 degrees bracing them together. It'd look similar to a ladder laying horizontally, flat. Resultant shelf would be about 60" across by 17" deep (depth of Milwaukee Packout drawer boxes). This will be placed against the truck cab side of the truck bed. With this shelf idea, I should be able to store things above and below. I know I'd need to somehow secure the bedrail edge of this shelf to the bedrail, not sure how just yet..

I'd like to hinge plywood atop this 8020 frame, opening towards the cab. Seems most the 8020 hardware is designed for inset panels, but I don't think that's the strongest way to dynamically or statically hold heavy boxes on top of it. I've not found hardware that is height adjustable, to allow the thickness of the plywood (maybe 1/4") to be placed completely on top of this frame. A hinge mounted to the vertical outside part of the 8020 would need slots to raise it up, to accommodate the thickness of the plywood atop the frame. With hinged panels, I could reach in from the side, move whatever is on the shelf, hinge open the panel and have access to boxes below, without having to slide those crates forward.

Anyway, this is my general idea. I'm new to 8020 but think I need 15 series rather than the 1/1" 10-series to span a 60" gap. I've considered just a slab of plywood, but the ends of 8020 would better clear the canopy/camper bedrail clamps, like the ends of a stretcher, if you can picture that. I'd have to notch that out of plywood, and that might make it weaker. I'm also very unsure what type/grade of plywood could resist sag/deflection of a 60" span.

Anyone with working knowledge around 8020 and can envision what I'm describing, maybe toss out some recommendations to make my first attempt less likely to fail, lol? Suppose I could throw a pair of 2x4s across the bedrails, attach them to each other somehow to make a 17" deep shelf, but I'd like it to be as sleek, strong and lightweight as possible. Removable, too.

I have only the most rudimentary woodworking skills, and none at all with 8020. Oddly, I've found nearly no YouTube or other content doing what I'm attempting, most 8020 work is 3D, like boxes, cabinets, etc. Mine will be a flat shelf with hatches.

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[Griswald]

The ONLY flaw in 8020 is that vibrations will loosen the fasteners in it. As long as you keep on top of that, it's a great building material.

 

[lazynorse]

The ONLY flaw in 8020 is that vibrations will loosen the fasteners in it. As long as you keep on top of that, it's a great building material.

Thanks, I understand a dab of blue Loctite is necessary for every bolt. Have you built with it?

 

[Grandaccess]

Thanks, I understand a dab of blue Loctite is necessary for every bolt. Have you built with it?

or be sure and use the Red LOL
or make it permanent and just JBWeld!

 

[RealRigsRattle]

Thanks, I understand a dab of blue Loctite is necessary for every bolt. Have you built with it?

Use blue on EVERYTHING. I used this one from Harbor Freight on the 8020 build in my OVRLND Camper. https://www.harborfreight.com/threadlocker-no-42-10-ml-medium-strength-65192.html

 

[lazynorse]

Use blue on EVERYTHING. I used this one from Harbor Freight on the 8020 build in my OVRLND Camper. https://www.harborfreight.com/threadlocker-no-42-10-ml-medium-strength-65192.html

Do you recall the hinges you used on that seat surface?

Is that 10 series? Anything you’d chane?

 

[RealRigsRattle]

Do you recall the hinges you used on that seat surface?

Is that 10 series? Anything you’d chane?

I used 2525 series (.98” squared) from Amazon. Hinges are from Lowe’s, can’t recall what size.

Nothing I’d change so far, other than I would have waited to buy a good supercab for the 6 foot bed

 

[Griswald]

Thanks, I understand a dab of blue Loctite is necessary for every bolt. Have you built with it?

Only for 25 or 30 years. I was a new product design engineer in my career and used it for tables, fixtures, safety guards, work holding, inventory bins and test fixtures.

Using 8020 for test fixtures is how I know it comes apart under vibration...a million cycles of a product causes a lot of vibration. We frequently had to stop tests to re-adjust and tighten up the fixtures.

It's good stuff except for that...and it can get heavy.

 

[Colo_Ranger]

I used 2525 series (.98” squared) from Amazon. Hinges are from Lowe’s, can’t recall what size.

Nothing I’d change so far, other than I would have waited to buy a good supercab for the 6 foot bed

Do you have a link for what you used on Amazon? It's insanely expensive, from what I have found. I need 1020 (1" x 3") in 42" lengths.

 

[Colo_Ranger]

I used a 2x6 for my crossbar. So far, its working great. I have been looking in to a metal plate, for longevity, but... so far this is great.

 

[RealRigsRattle]

Do you have a link for what you used on Amazon? It's insanely expensive, from what I have found. I need 1020 (1" x 3") in 42" lengths.

https://a.co/d/0dPUEVe0

 

[Colo_Ranger]

https://a.co/d/0dPUEVe0

thanks!

 

[Fordup]

I purchased a bunch directly from them for my cnc router build. Costs a little more but they have a good selection of fittings and joining ideas
https://8020.net

 

[lazynorse]

Minor update, my comparison shopping between OVRLND and Tune campers ended with an order for a Tune M1L. Biggest factors, Tune offers an extended cabover, rated to 1000 pounds, that requires just an 18” (stowable) extension into the bed space. That means 42” of unencumbered bed space while the sleeping bedding remains in place. OVRLND requires a 40” extension, leaving just 20” of space to hop down into, on a 5’ bed anyway.

Second, I can have it delivered and installed in Oregon, 3 hours from me (rather than 22 hrs to Flagstaff). Doing so means no sales tax, but a $1500 delivery fee. Similarly equipped, I’m saving over $2000 with Tune, plus travel expenses.

Tradeoffs, Tune bedding area is 35” tall, so slouch only for a tall guy like me once in bed. OVRLND offers extended height. I also prefer OVRLNDS heavy duty vinylized canvas vs Tune’s 600 denier waterproofed canvas.

Other differences, Tune is primarily extruded aluminum, with a composite FRP top. OVRLND is welded aluminum frame and aluminum skin. Similar weight.

In the end, the extended cabover, lower price and much easier install location won out. I do 2 week trips throughout the southwest a couple times a year, usually setting up a Gazelle T4, inflating pads and then the reverse in new locations every day. Looking forward to popping the top and being 99% done with setup.

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