AzScorpion
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We have some of the hottest weather (highest UV index) in the country here and when I do work mine sits in the sun all day. I use the product every 3-4 months and the dash, interior and tonneau cover and they still look like brand new. It's one of the best UV protectants out there. Btw it has a nice satin finish not a glossy one. Just don't over apply it, less it better.
FunInTheSun
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Yes. Automotive leather is always (with one or two notable exceptions $$$$$) coated with a polymer (plastic) like polyurethane (PU) or vinyl (PVC). 303 is completely safe for this application, as it was developed for protection and preservation of aircraft windows, seats and interiors, all made from various non-metallic polymers (PVC, ABS, PU, etc.).
Little known fact about 303. It was developed by Boeing Aircraft Corporation for preservation and protection of non-metallic aircraft surfaces. With the push for ever lighter and more fuel-efficient vehicles, there has been increased overlap between aerospace and automotive technology, using more plastics and special adhesives for assembly, replacing painted metal and mechanical fasteners like screws, rivets, etc.. 303 Aerospace Protectant was so successful and has become so popular that they spun off the production and distribution into a commercial product for general use.
AzScorpion
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Great post Dave!! And I thought I was the only 303 nerd on the forum. ? ?
FunInTheSun
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Unless the (slightly obsessive) customer who then buys three bottles because "one for the vinyl, one for the leather, and one for the lawnmower"...
AzScorpion
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FunInTheSun
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I was a 303 fan when it was only available from Boeing. I have used it on my personal vehicles since the late 80s.
FunInTheSun
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Here's another GREAT Boeing spin-off product. It has become popular in the woodworking scene for keeping saw blades from rusting in storage.
https://boeshield.com/
Please note: this is NOT an "appearance" product. It leaves a waxy film that is not esthetically pleasing (at least for "shiny" fans). It is for protection against corrosion, like underhood / undercarriage parts exposed to the elements. When you don't especially care what they look like, but you don't want them to rust.
(edited to add the Note)
https://boeshield.com/
Please note: this is NOT an "appearance" product. It leaves a waxy film that is not esthetically pleasing (at least for "shiny" fans). It is for protection against corrosion, like underhood / undercarriage parts exposed to the elements. When you don't especially care what they look like, but you don't want them to rust.
(edited to add the Note)
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SO THE TRICK IS WITH ANY OF THESE PRODUCTS IS AFTER APPLYING IT, USE A LINT FREE CLOTH TO WIPE OFF THE EXCESS AFTER SAY AN HOUR OR LONGER. THAT WAY IT WONT ATTRACT AS MUCH DUST AND DIRT
FunInTheSun
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I would imagine it would do a pretty good job. I have not used the Boeshield (at least not labeled as such), only the 303. I do have professional training in corrosion control, due to my former career in Naval Aviation maintenance. The seaborne environment is literally the toughest corrosion environment on the planet. (Space is worse, but I digress...)
Airplanes are expensive, and tend to be made of light alloys that are very electro-chemically active. Corrosion is basically something that happens when dissimilar metals come together in the presence of an electrolyte (ionized liquid). The idea of most corrosion control schemes is to keep the metals separated (if possible) with insulating washers, fiber gaskets, silicone, etc., and to exclude the electrolyte with coatings or other environmental seals.
Little known fact: Paint is the most important corrosion control measure, so it doesn't have to be ugly to work... Most fromes are painted, though, and they do rust, so not all paints are equal. Probably most frame paint is applied thinly and has pinholes.
Like I mentioned, I never used Boeshield in my military experience, at least not in a recognizable form. We have a bunch of products, and the one I would compare to most undercoatings, etc, we called Grade 4, and it was a very thick, gummy brown wax. It was sprayed on as a kind of yellowish foam. It smelled funny, but it worked VERY well.
Boeshield is designed for the same purpose, but is a lot more friendly, esthetically speaking. It goes on as a thin, clear liquid, and leaves only a very thin film. I don't know how well it would hold up long-term, compared to competitive products, but I could not find any (credible) reviews on YouTube where anybody anything bad to say about it.
This guy seemed pretty credible. He used it on an RV and he liked it:
(There's always that one guy...):
I see you are in Vermont, which is a pretty severe environment. I would expect it to perform really well, but you may have to try it to see. If it keeps the electrolyte from touching the dissimilar metals, it will be completely successful. It is easy to use, and it's not messy, so I would give it a try. Inspect often for best results...
Azhang253
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In the Jeep community, we love Woolwax/Fluid Film. Works great, spray into the frame rails, underbody, and into panels/doors. It may be a bit drippy in the beginning, but it will level out. Do it every year, and you will have no rust. Easy enough to do in your garage/driveway. I bought the spray gun and a 5 gallon bucket. Sprays fine out of my 6 gallon compressor. I plan to do this the moment my Ranger arrives. I'm currently cutting away rust and welding plating on my Cherokee and it's not a fun process.
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