2017 Ford Ranger Auto Stop Start

[airline tech]

Ok,
Sometimes it helps to get another view of things and using the F-150 and the bypass write-up above, I can see the internal operation a bit clearer.

F-150 - Diagram

So, what the guy in the write-up has done is removed the momentary switch and installed a toggle for the switch
He has cut the White (pin #2) and Purple (his description and not actually clear pic) but (pin #3) is the wire he cut - is actually Black / Villot) by the diagram, which is the ground for the switch.

What this diagram tells me, that the Ranger diagrams does not is the detail of the switch itself
(Normally Open), with the Ranger diagrams it was unknown (less detail)

So, for the Ranger including the OP's 2017 it may be possible to use the same bypass with a toggle as the operational function should be the same.
The way I see the operation is you press the switch (momentarily)
This applies a temporary ground to a microcontroller (switch) internal of the FCIM which grounds and turns on the light in the switch (disabled)
This disabled ground also sends this information via the data buss that the system is disabled and communicates to the rest of the modules in the system, mainly the IPC to give you the message and indicator light on the dash.
So, in essence the disabled light is the actual control circuit for the ASS system as long as that light is (on) the system is disabled. (If I am correct)

The unknown is, will the FCIM software trigger a (Stuck Switch) failure code?

I do not like or recommend the process of just diking wires, but its your truck and it may possibly work without any faults.

Now to clarify, We in the US do not have easy access (I do not) to ROW Ranger Manuals, therefor I cannot get a Connector View or Pinout of the wiring for your truck. The connectors are not the same for US Rangers and wire pinouts are different.
With that said, it does appear that the wire colors possibly match.

Since we are only looking for 2-wires, this should be fairly easy.

The White / Brown - Should be the ASS Switch (Output)
The Black / Villot- Should be the Mult switch (Ground)

To test get a meter (set to Ohm's scale) and test the switch itself (disconnected)
match the White / Brown - Connector Wire to the Switch Pin for location ident as well as the Black / Villot.

Connect the meter leads to those pins and press and release the ASS switch, you should be seeing continuity when pressed and open when released. This will ident the proper wires to cut for a toggle install.
If you do this, please be sure to give yourself a length of wire long enough from the connector to resplice it back together (if needed) or you will need to replace the connector

A preferred option would be to get a wiretap and tap into those wire with a toggle, no cutting required. This way you are still forcing the switch to ground (palmately)

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[tangodownNZ]

Ok,
Sometimes it helps to get another view of things and using the F-150 and the bypass write-up above, I can see the internal operation a bit clearer.

F-150 - Diagram

So, what the guy in the write-up has done is removed the momentary switch and installed a toggle for the switch
He has cut the White (pin #2) and Purple (his description and not actually clear pic) but (pin #3) is the wire he cut - is actually Black / Villot) by the diagram, which is the ground for the switch.

What this diagram tells me, that the Ranger diagrams does not is the detail of the switch itself
(Normally Open), with the Ranger diagrams it was unknown (less detail)

So, for the Ranger including the OP's 2017 it may be possible to use the same bypass with a toggle as the operational function should be the same.
The way I see the operation is you press the switch (momentarily)
This applies a temporary ground to a microcontroller (switch) internal of the FCIM which grounds and turns on the light in the switch (disabled)
This disabled ground also sends this information via the data buss that the system is disabled and communicates to the rest of the modules in the system, mainly the IPC to give you the message and indicator light on the dash.
So, in essence the disabled light is the actual control circuit for the ASS system as long as that light is (on) the system is disabled. (If I am correct)

The unknown is, will the FCIM software trigger a (Stuck Switch) failure code?

I do not like or recommend the process of just diking wires, but its your truck and it may possibly work without any faults.

Now to clarify, We in the US do not have easy access (I do not) to ROW Ranger Manuals, therefor I cannot get a Connector View or Pinout of the wiring for your truck. The connectors are not the same for US Rangers and wire pinouts are different.
With that said, it does appear that the wire colors possibly match.

Since we are only looking for 2-wires, this should be fairly easy.

The White / Brown - Should be the ASS Switch (Output)
The Black / Villot- Should be the Mult switch (Ground)

To test get a meter (set to Ohm's scale) and test the switch itself (disconnected)
match the White / Brown - Connector Wire to the Switch Pin for location ident as well as the Black / Villot.

Connect the meter leads to those pins and press and release the ASS switch, you should be seeing continuity when pressed and open when released. This will ident the proper wires to cut for a toggle install.
If you do this, please be sure to give yourself a length of wire long enough from the connector to resplice it back together (if needed) or you will need to replace the connector

A preferred option would be to get a wiretap and tap into those wire with a toggle, no cutting required. This way you are still forcing the switch to ground (palmately)

WOW!, thank you very much for all of that. I will need time to process it all and probably come back with more questions, haha.
We do have this workshop manual here in New Zealand. Do you think this will show wiring, maybe? https://haynes.com/en-au/ford/range...qp_9RQgPI6ShraQZZBMivcU83GrbT9NBoCYAkQAvD_BwE

 

[airline tech]

is there a way maybe to turn it off with Forscan?,
That was one thing I wanted to look into, I ordered the cable this week cause I need to change CM on tire size as well, I just put 285/75 ridge graplers on it yesterday and got it realigned
the auto/start/stop really never bothers me because I always either have it in Tow mode or (S)port and that turns it off anyway, I dont know who can stand driving these trucks in (D)rive it wants to keep the RPMs low and that pisses me off around town ....

Yes, there are numerous documented ways to (DISABLE) the Ass across the threads.
Nightlight, Disconnect the BMS Sensor, or turn the BMS off via Forscan, which in turn disables the ASS, or add the Eliminator

My truck came with it already Disabled and have noted the numerous As-Built files that were changed for this disable and that the switch itself is not installed.

The main (2) are the switch input and the IPC, are changed and the switch input is disabled as well as the IPC screen for ASS.
There are many others
But these are the main (2) changes that are altered in the As-Built Files and I believe that these may just work without changing anything else, as some of the other changes will not allow a re-write of data.

These will Though:

FCIM:
As Built
7A7-01-01:
0076-80DC-1496 - (change 80DC to 81DC)
This disables the Switch Input

IPC:
As Built
720-01-01
2F0F-1464-7251 - (change 1464 to 3464)
This disables the ASS screen display on the IPC

As stated, there are a list of others that are different between a truck with ASS and without ASS, but due to another member actually trying to get the ASS working on his (ASS Deleted) truck proved that not all of those changes would actually allow a Re-Write of data, mainly the PCM

So, it may be worth a try on just these 2 codes, to see if you can actually disable the system without any failure codes popping up.
I am so glad that the My22 had this option of delete or I would have visited the very same road and wanting to delete it. (I HATE the system and Moreso HATE how its forced upon you)
it should be designed to turn it (OFF) period without a hassle or modification.
I guess we should be happy they at the very least gave us the switch, some MFG's do not give you that pleasure option.


Since the OP of this thread appears to still want it available and just eliminate the need to press the button at every start, the toggle may be a working solution to that.

 

[Grandaccess]

I just bought the USB forscan cable and downloaded the program. I was going to their site to buy the 1 year and figured I better ask first, does it install a file that activates it or do they email you a code?
ie: do I have to go to the site with the computer its installed on or can I buy it from another computer

 

[airline tech]

I just bought the USB forscan cable and downloaded the program. I was going to their site to buy the 1 year and figured I better ask first, does it install a file that activates it or do they email you a code?
ie: do I have to go to the site with the computer its installed on or can I buy it from another computer

They will send email with the activation code

 

[airline tech]

WOW!, thank you very much for all of that. I will need time to process it all and probably come back with more questions, haha.
We do have this workshop manual here in New Zealand. Do you think this will show wiring, maybe? https://haynes.com/en-au/ford/range...qp_9RQgPI6ShraQZZBMivcU83GrbT9NBoCYAkQAvD_BwE

Just curious if you got it to work, as the unknown was if the system would allow a perm ground of the switch and keep it disabled. I have a hunch it requires a momentary toggle to ground and uses the CAN Bus (Lo) switch open and CAN Bus (High) switch closed to trigger the micro control relay in the FCIM to disable / enable the system.
So, just wanted to follow up on this to confirm if this is bypass will work, or does it force you to still toggle the switch.

 

[Av8or1]

is there a way maybe to turn it off with Forscan?,

Yep - my three changes in Forscan were:

• remove Automatic Start-Stop
• turn Bambi Mode on (Fog lights stay on with high beams)
• Turned off hyperblink which was on when I swapped to LED turn signal.

 

[tangodownNZ]

I haven’t done it yet. I will update when done. Thanks

 

[tangodownNZ]

WOW!, thank you very much for all of that. I will need time to process it all and probably come back with more questions, haha.
We do have this workshop manual here in New Zealand. Do you think this will show wiring, maybe? https://haynes.com/en-au/ford/range...qp_9RQgPI6ShraQZZBMivcU83GrbT9NBoCYAkQAvD_BwE

I am still unsure which two wires to splice for my toggle switch please.
Note, the Australian PX2 Ranger wires in the console switch are

White/brown
White/green
Blue
Light purple
Purple/black
Brown x2

Thanks again

 

[airline tech]

I am still unsure which two wires to splice for my toggle switch please.
Note, the Australian PX2 Ranger wires in the console switch are

White/brown
White/green
Blue
Light purple
Purple/black
Brown x2

Thanks again

Since we are only looking for 2-wires, this should be fairly easy.

The White / Brown - Should be the ASS Switch (Output)
The Black / Villot- Should be the Mult switch (Ground)

But this is for the US Version Connector.
To verify use the switch as a reference - disconnected and in your hand.

With a multimeter set to Ohms scale
Probe the pins on the switch that correlate with the Connector.

Negative Lead - To the Black / Purple - Should Be the Ground

Positive Lead - To the White / Brown - Should be the ASS Switch (Power) from the FCIM
However, cannot confirm due to not actually seeing the wiring diagram for YOUR truck.

But you can Identify which wire and confirm by (with the Pos and Neg) leads of the meter on the pins of the switch itself.

With switch in (normal) position the (Ohm Meter) will read OL (Open Circuit)
When you press the switch the (Ohm Meter) will read resistance (Continuity) should be reading around 1.0 Ohm.

This momentary contact pulses the microcontroller in the FCIM, which grounds the circuit for the indicator light in the switch and it also sends the Data along the CAN Data Bus to the other modules in the system that the switch has been (pulsed) to ground and the ASS is deactivated.
This is the message on the IPC (dash) disabled.
This is where I question if the FCIM will allow the switch to be perm grounded and hold itself in the deactivated state or will it still look for a momentary pulse before it deactivates and force you to actuate the toggle switch - (just like the OEM Button)

If it is not the White / Brown wire, then continue with the other pins until you find the pin that is for the ASS switch (provides the continuity) test results as above.

Any Wire with (Black) on it should be your ground, so it's just the matter of locating which of the other wires is actually the (Power) feed for the ASS switch which by the US Version connector is the White / Brown.

 

[tangodownNZ]

Tuanks

Since we are only looking for 2-wires, this should be fairly easy.

The White / Brown - Should be the ASS Switch (Output)
The Black / Villot- Should be the Mult switch (Ground)

But this is for the US Version Connector.
To verify use the switch as a reference - disconnected and in your hand.

With a multimeter set to Ohms scale
Probe the pins on the switch that correlate with the Connector.

Negative Lead - To the Black / Purple - Should Be the Ground

Positive Lead - To the White / Brown - Should be the ASS Switch (Power) from the FCIM
However, cannot confirm due to not actually seeing the wiring diagram for YOUR truck.

But you can Identify which wire and confirm by (with the Pos and Neg) leads of the meter on the pins of the switch itself.

With switch in (normal) position the (Ohm Meter) will read OL (Open Circuit)
When you press the switch the (Ohm Meter) will read resistance (Continuity) should be reading around 1.0 Ohm.

This momentary contact pulses the microcontroller in the FCIM, which grounds the circuit for the indicator light in the switch and it also sends the Data along the CAN Data Bus to the other modules in the system that the switch has been (pulsed) to ground and the ASS is deactivated.
This is the message on the IPC (dash) disabled.
This is where I question if the FCIM will allow the switch to be perm grounded and hold itself in the deactivated state or will it still look for a momentary pulse before it deactivates and force you to actuate the toggle switch - (just like the OEM Button)

If it is not the White / Brown wire, then continue with the other pins until you find the pin that is for the ASS switch (provides the continuity) test results as above.

Any Wire with (Black) on it should be your ground, so it's just the matter of locating which of the other wires is actually the (Power) feed for the ASS switch which by the US Version connector is the White / Brown.

Thanks again airline tech

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