2.5 inch level install

apotocki

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Ok....yea, I know there has been lots of talk and info regarding the installation of level kits. Please bear with me on this.
I installed a ReadyLift 2 inch level back in December. I’m not happy with it as the realized lift is 1.5 inches at best. Every time I look at the truck I wish it was another .5-1 inch higher in the front. I’m going to be changing it to a 2.5 inch kit.
When I did my ReadyLift install I removed the lower control arms....and tie rods. I had an issue on the passenger side where the shaft popped out...was a bear to get back in. Drivers side was a piece of cake with no issues.
I’m thinking about not doing the LCA removal again and doing the ‘traditional’ method of tie rod, sway bar, upper ball joint, and removing the axle nut.
My question is...will I have to remove the strut bottom studs in order to reinstall it with the spacer on?...or will there be enough space pushing down on the lower arm to get it back in? If the axle nut is removed hopefully that provides enough room?....I’ve heard getting those studs out is not easy.
Appreciate any and all feedback.
Thanks.
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RangerB

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Don’t know the answer to your question, but I do know those studs are a PAIN to get out of there!

Ymmv, but they wouldn’t budge with a normal 2# hammer. Eventually, got my hands on a decent air hammer. Even then, one stud took 10 mins of hammering and a shattered bit. The other wasn’t so bad, though.

Good luck with your install!
 

t4thfavor

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Ok....yea, I know there has been lots of talk and info regarding the installation of level kits. Please bear with me on this.
I installed a ReadyLift 2 inch level back in December. I’m not happy with it as the realized lift is 1.5 inches at best. Every time I look at the truck I wish it was another .5-1 inch higher in the front. I’m going to be changing it to a 2.5 inch kit.
When I did my ReadyLift install I removed the lower control arms....and tie rods. I had an issue on the passenger side where the shaft popped out...was a bear to get back in. Drivers side was a piece of cake with no issues.
I’m thinking about not doing the LCA removal again and doing the ‘traditional’ method of tie rod, sway bar, upper ball joint, and removing the axle nut.
My question is...will I have to remove the strut bottom studs in order to reinstall it with the spacer on?...or will there be enough space pushing down on the lower arm to get it back in? If the axle nut is removed hopefully that provides enough room?....I’ve heard getting those studs out is not easy.
Appreciate any and all feedback.
Thanks.
I ordered the Fox coilover kit, it looks like the second method you described is the way to go. I watched a few youtube videos of how to install them on the Ranger, and am pretty confident that I can get it done without too much trouble.

I don't recall seeing any strut bottom studs that stay in the truck, the coilover has some funny studs that stay in it, and the fox video literally just pried down the LCA and it fit right in.
 
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apotocki

apotocki

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I ordered the Fox coilover kit, it looks like the second method you described is the way to go. I watched a few youtube videos of how to install them on the Ranger, and am pretty confident that I can get it done without too much trouble.

I don't recall seeing any strut bottom studs that stay in the truck, the coilover has some funny studs that stay in it, and the fox video literally just pried down the LCA and it fit right in.
My advice is to search this forum as there have been a lot of folks that have run into CV issues with the install.
The last time I did the install I was sure to remove (and be sure to replace) the axle nut and release the axle from the hub - no CV issues this way!
 

t4thfavor

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My advice is to search this forum as there have been a lot of folks that have run into CV issues with the install.
The last time I did the install I was sure to remove (and be sure to replace) the axle nut and release the axle from the hub - no CV issues this way!
I did the full Fox coilover install (front and rear shocks) yesterday on a ~40K mile Michigan truck that has seen the car wash 3 times since new, and it took me 4 hours from start to finish. I did the axle nut method and it worked perfectly, there was literally zero drama.

The fox coilovers (and others) have bolts on the bottom instead of studs, so you don't have to distend the lower control arm so far to get everything in the pocket.


I took off the UCA ball joint, the steering tie rod, roll bar, axle nut, and then disconnected the ABS line from the UCA and disconnected the brake line from the inner fender (Just the nut that keeps it secured to the fender).
 


DukeCanBuildit

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I did the full Fox coilover install (front and rear shocks) yesterday on a ~40K mile Michigan truck that has seen the car wash 3 times since new, and it took me 4 hours from start to finish. I did the axle nut method and it worked perfectly, there was literally zero drama.

The fox coilovers (and others) have bolts on the bottom instead of studs, so you don't have to distend the lower control arm so far to get everything in the pocket.


I took off the UCA ball joint, the steering tie rod, roll bar, axle nut, and then disconnected the ABS line from the UCA and disconnected the brake line from the inner fender (Just the nut that keeps it secured to the fender).
? Hey Chance,

Good job. Now that you’ve done this, you’ll be recruited to do it for other people. To make it even easier next time, consider removing the calliper and rotor and hanging the calliper out of the way. You’d be surprised how easy it is to move that knuckle around and how much less effort it takes to get that upper ball joint back into the taper. It’s an extra step, but well worth the five minutes it takes.
 

t4thfavor

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? Hey Chance,

Good job. Now that you’ve done this, you’ll be recruited to do it for other people. To make it even easier next time, consider removing the calliper and rotor and hanging the calliper out of the way. You’d be surprised how easy it is to move that knuckle around and how much less effort it takes to get that upper ball joint back into the taper. It’s an extra step, but well worth the five minutes it takes.
I didn’t need to, it was easier than I would have expected even with the caliper attached. I used a small floor jack to move the knuckle onto the uca ball joint.

Taking the brakes apart on a dirty Michigan truck is my definition of torture.
 

DHH

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I installed a ReadyLift 2 inch level back in December. I’m not happy with it as the realized lift is 1.5 inches at best. Every time I look at the truck I wish it was another .5-1 inch higher in the front. I’m going to be changing it to a 2.5 inch kit.
I'm the complete opposite. I installed the 2.5" and I wish the front was .5~1" lower. lol
I'm about .25~.5" higher in the front than back, but that is probably because I have 2 swing out boxes full of junk.
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