10R80 Transmission Cooler Project

[TJC]

Tony, is the plenum something you are going to sell? Or perhaps a complete package?

I haven't given any thought to it. At this point it is premature to consider. I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.

I will certainly publish results and sources for the parts. I can tell you now it isn't inexpensive, but it is much less than a rebuilt/new transmission that may fail the same way.

I can also tell you that I have not removed the first part on my truck in this replacement process.

And I already know the heat exchanger is tucked away in very tight quarters. It is going to be a challenge to replace it. I may even have to remove the transmission crossover mount and lower the transmission to get to it. My first attempt will be through the driver side front fender well. If you change your own oil, you can see the heat exchanger to the right from that vantage point. But it is a tight fit... probably as bad as installing the UPR Catch Can lines. I did that work and it was no fun.

There is simply no room to see or move your hands in that tight space. It's another reason I want all those coolant hoses (that will become unnecessary if I am successful) removed.

Back to the transmission, IMO, Ford has not really addressed the issue. The solenoids (magnetic, they end up sticking - attracting ferrous residue from wear components) and other valve body parts used are inadequate, but the firmware and high heat level exacerbate the weakness. The lack of a dipstick or simple way to change the fluid is a big problem. The fluid needs to be changed far more often than Ford will ever admit.

I may very well end up having a rebuilt transmission before this is over, and if I do, I will go with a high quality aftermarket valve body and replacement parts. I will not be going to Ford to seek another faulty transmission.

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[TJC]

I've spent the last couple of weeks buying a cheap HF Metal Brake and transforming it into something useful for this project. Hopefully, it will allow me to make the fan plenum. Had to wait on parts and pieces to arrive to complete the project.

I started with the $50 30" Metal Brake (on sale at my local Harbor Freight). I didn't like the idea of using C clamps to hold the brake top plate in place. Constant repositioning and lack of definable repeatable quality bends drove me to find a solution. Researched the internet and found several folks who modified the brake to make it useful. I took some of their ideas and began to modify my brake.

Tested it today with good success. Still need to tweak a few adjustments, but I think its going to do what I want.

Here's what I started with... The top bar simply floats on the bed and must be clamped using C clamps (not included) for each bend... way too inaccurate and time consuming.

...and that shiny pieced of aluminum in the back left against the garage door is going to be my plenum. The top plate sits on the back section of the brake - held in place with C clamps.

And here is the finished product... Locking clamps on each side that raise and lower a 2" x 2" x 1/4" x 34" long piece of steel angle iron. The top metal brake plate is attached to the angle iron by stainless steel 1/4" x 20 bolts going through 3/8" aluminum spacers... I tapped into the top brake plate.

I've got adjustments for all 3 axis. Once dialed in it stays dialed in.

And I've got less than $100 in it. This should make quick work of the plenum.

The brake is mounted to a 2" x 10" x 48" board held in place on my 40 year old Workmate 300. This is it in the locked position, It makes perfect 90 degree bends up to 30". I plan to store it flat on the garage wall.

Shortly it will be time to transfer my pattern to the aluminum, cut the fan center hole, and then start bending metal into the fan plenum, and finally mounting it to the 40 row stacked cooler.

Once the cooler unit is completed, I'll fabricate the mounting plate, test fit, and mount the completed assembly to the truck. Then build the AN8 hoses and route them from the transmission to the cooler. I'll need to add another ~1 quart of transmission fluid as well.

I'll test for leaks before running the necessary wiring and configuring the digital fan controller.

 

[TJC]

My Transmission cooler project has been on hold due to the summer heat and humidity, and home remodeling projects. It cooled the last couple of days from the high 90's with 95% humidity down to an absolutely lovely 2 days Tuesday topped out at 84F with 55% humidity, and today was hotter at 95F, but only 42% humidity.

So I took advantage and laid out my template on the aluminum, cut it out it and used my newly modified metal brake to have the plenum piece take shape. Due to the limitations of my brake I had to make the plenum in 3 pieces, The top, front and back sides in one piece, and the two sides individually. It will work out the same. Here's the main piece. Still need to de bur the edges, but it fits the cooler and fan like a glove. The piece is turned 90 degrees from the cooler. It is coming along nicely.

 

[2021Ranger]

I’ve been waiting for an update on this Tony, looking good!

 

[Stevedbvik1]

My Transmission cooler project has be on hold due to the summer heat and humidity, and home remodeling projects. It cooled the last couple of days from the high 90's with 95% humidity down to an absolutely lovely 2 days Tuesday topped out at 84F with 55% humidity, and today was hotter at 95F, but only 42% humidity.

So I took advantage and laid out my template on the aluminum, cut it out it and used my newly modified metal brake to have the plenum piece take shape. Due to the limitations of my brake I had to make the plenum in 3 pieces, The top, front and back sides in one piece, and the two sides individually. It will work out the same. Here's the main piece. Still need to de bur the edges, but it fits the cooler and fan like a glove. The piece is turned 90 degrees from the cooler. It is coming along nicely.

Are you still planning on mounting this in front of the fuel tank? Or did I miss a post?

 

[TJC]

Are you still planning on mounting this in front of the fuel tank? Or did I miss a post?

That's the preliminary plan at the moment. Once I have the cooler, plenum, and fan as a single module I'll mock up placement and see if it works. It seems like the best place right now.

 

[TJC]

The project is finally coming along. 96F today but only 42% humidity.

I began test fitting and 1st pass assembly of the cooler.

Plenty of room between the fan and the cooler to insure an even flow across the entire cooler....no buffeting allowed! And plenty of space below to draw in the air required.

Next up, enclose the last 2 sides, and seal it up to insure 100% of the air flow is moving through the cooler.

 

[TJC]

Just completed the cooler (minus 8 rivets which go in tomorrow). It is already sealed pretty tight, but those 8 rivets will complete the job. Here's the latest picture. I've had the truck on the lift for a few weeks now, and I hate to take it down just to put it back up, but my state inspection is due before the end of the month, and I have a few things to test over the next week concerning the transmission. Those tests are well past due and I want a baseline before I begin to the cooler installation work. More in that aspect later once I have the data.

Where the aluminum meets the cooler body there is a 1/8 thick dense rubber seal to protect the cooler and anchor the bottom of the side plate. Those rivets (4 on each side) will seal the top to the side panels. It's tight now, but I want it bullet proof, and a one piece unit.

The next step is to begin fabbing up the mounting plate. I have a feeling that I'm going to be spending a lot of time under the truck in the near term.

 

[TJC]

Anyone happen to know the inside diameter of the coolant hose going to/from the transmission heat exchanger?

 

[TJC]

The cooler module is completed. The rivets across the top are installed, and it is now ready to be pressure and air flow tested.

 

[Tex_panhandleranger]

Just a quick piece of experience. If you need to spot weld some metal after bending it. Take a welder and set it on low and a big rod of your choice no flux on it. A piece of metal for a ground to press the metal down on and hold the rod on it for a second or two. Not sure on aluminum. But I have repaired several parts doing it.

 

[Tex_panhandleranger]

When you get done I would like to see it. Sounds great so far.

 

[TJC]

Just a quick piece of experience. If you need to spot weld some metal after bending it. Take a welder and set it on low and a big rod of your choice no flux on it. A piece of metal for a ground to press the metal down on and hold the rod on it for a second or two. Not sure on aluminum. But I have repaired several parts doing it.

I'm building a spot welder, and have it 75% complete. Already tested it and welded two large nails together so I know it will get the job done. Still working on controlling the cycle time. But it'll burn steel rods in two very quickly. I have not tested it on aluminum.

I do own a Mig welder and an old school 200amp spark box that I cut a pickup frame in half and made a trailer out of the bed years ago. I sold it for a grand when I left Shreveport, La years ago.

I'll play with some aluminum stock I have using your technique. Aluminum has a low melting point.

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