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[Resolved] Transmission downshift at highway speeds and then it wigged out.

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Domino77

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I have the electric pump with the long 1/4" hose. I didn't think of that, but I just warmed it up and checked it looks to be between 4 and 5 as they say it should be. Did the transmission go through a bit of a "relearning" with the changed fluid adjusting to the new viscosity, and I was a bit too aggressive in that phase I dunno just spit balling here? If a Ford authorized mechanic read this thread, I'm sure he's/she's shaking his/her head right now.
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I have the electric pump with the long 1/4" hose. I didn't think of that, but I just warmed it up and checked it looks to be between 4 and 5 as they say it should be. Did the transmission go through a bit of a "relearning" with the changed fluid adjusting to the new viscosity, and I was a bit too aggressive in that phase I dunno just spit balling here? If a Ford authorized mechanic read this thread, I'm sure he's/she's shaking his/her head right now.
Have you looked underneath the truck to see if any transmission fluid had sprayed out?
 
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5thranger

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I understand the storied history of the 10R80 Transmission and it's quite a nail-biting read. Well, I have had an experience that I felt I had to share or see if anyone has had the same experience. I have searched the forum and not found anything similar. For reference she's a 2022 Ranger FX4 (2.3L) my upgrades are as follows: Ford Performance tuner, MSD Ignition coils, TurboSmart Blow-off valve, CVF Intercooler, CVF Downpipe, C&L throttle control, K&N induction, Borla catback. Also, suspiciously coincidental before this incident I changed the trans fluid (added Lubeguard), filter and put on an aftermarket PPE trans pan.

Basically, I was headed down the highway and went to pass another vehicle. As I accelerated a bit more aggressively than normal the transmission downshifted as I notice it does when I am a bit more aggressive with the throttle, but this time the downshift felt significantly harder. As it downshifted I has halfway into the next lane and everything went haywire. The truck shuttered, almost braking to a stop in the middle of the highway and the instrument cluster went crazy, pre-collision sensor went off so many things happened at once combined with my instant fear of the worst I did not recall everything that happened within that second. Within the following seconds it recovered somewhat and it shifted like it was slipping the rest of the way home, it went into 10th and stayed there unless I came to a complete stop (I was in stop and go traffic at this point). It would shift down to 1st then it would shift up through acceleration like each gear was slipping and seemed to shift up and down erratically like it was just all confused. This did kick on the check engine light. I let it sit overnight and it seemed to shift more reasonable the next day, but not a 100%. That was a week ago and things seem to be 80-90% better and the check engine light went off (maybe I am just being over analytical now noticing all the nuances). It seems to, on occasion, shift hard throughout normal driving while city driving. I have considered using the Forscan to set the trans to re-learn (can I even do that? I assuming I can?) or maybe my Ford Tuner does this as well I am meaning to look into these options. If you read this far I appreciate it, let me know what you think or if you had something similar happen.
I hope you had not been to Taco Bell before that happened because your driver seat would have been in very poor condition. 💩
 

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to have the codes it threw would be priceless about now :(
the pre- collision could have been a combination of things that all happened at the same time?, the brain didn't know if it should shit or wind its watch LOL
 

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You did check it with the fluid at 200 deg+ correct?
 


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to have the codes it threw would be priceless about now :(
the pre- collision could have been a combination of things that all happened at the same time?, the brain didn't know if it should shit or wind its watch LOL
If you have ford pass set up, a service write can actually pull up a calendar on their terminal and see what codes it threw on that day.
 

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If you have ford pass set up, a service write can actually pull up a calendar on their terminal and see what codes it threw on that day.
You know, I never thought of that - I know that the Ford Pass (Sorry Ford App - Now)
has to pick up the code, but notice they only give you the generic - Hey I see a problem, Take Me To The Dealer (River) - Sorry the song popped into my head
I know that the (2-Posts) in that drive up lane (Service Department) scans the VIN and checks codes/open recalls etc. I was curious and asked when I was at the dealer last (parts department)
But I highly doubt they will divulge what they were until they hook up and scan (Diagnostic Fee)

It would make sense that they can/could do it -though, but I question the fact - due to the various NO Code-No Problem owners face, it is wiped in history (No Historical) codes in the PCM etc, if Ford App could lock it in (what the code was) then either the dealer cannot see it or they just won't look at it .

So, on the fence if this is actual fact🤷‍♂️ I am sure the Ford Tech's on here could answer that question.
 

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You know, I never thought of that - I know that the Ford Pass (Sorry Ford App - Now)
has to pick up the code, but notice they only give you the generic - Hey I see a problem, Take Me To The Dealer (River) - Sorry the song popped into my head
I know that the (2-Posts) in that drive up lane (Service Department) scans the VIN and checks codes/open recalls etc. I was curious and asked when I was at the dealer last (parts department)
But I highly doubt they will divulge what they were until they hook up and scan (Diagnostic Fee)

It would make sense that they can/could do it -though, but I question the fact - due to the various NO Code-No Problem owners face, it is wiped in history (No Historical) codes in the PCM etc, if Ford App could lock it in (what the code was) then either the dealer cannot see it or they just won't look at it .

So, on the fence if this is actual fact🤷‍♂️ I am sure the Ford Tech's on here could answer that question.
From when I was a service writer, I can't for the life of me remember to what depth the codes were recorded/saved. But I had a few customers that had reported issues that had gone away that I was able to pull the info for.
 

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Like others have stated, it is very easy to overfill and the truck will run fine until you reach the higher temperature range and the fluid expands enough to begin foaming, then all H@ll breaks loose.

If you haven't yet, invest and install a Fitzstick. His custom funnel is a perfect "hands free" fit with his dipstick. And the addition of this $14 electric transfer pump from Amazon makes life very simple, pulling fluid out the dipstick without spilling a drop!

You can't trust a seat of the pants warm up, you'll never get the transmission in the 206F-215F window without power braking the truck.

If you have a Fitzstick, you can use a cold start level measure that I came up with after I set the fluid to the middle of the range on the dipstick when I was at the top of the heat range (215F). It is really simple to do.

Use the image below. Each reading is the proper fluid level at a given fluid temperature. If you have a way of measuring the fluid this becomes very simple.

If you do not you can use a cold start (letting your truck sit on level ground over night in a warm garage.

I took the measurements at 75F ambient and 77.4 Fluid temp.

Basically start the truck from a cold start on level ground, shift through the gears from park to sport and back at 5 second intervals, immediately hop out and check the fluid level (DO NOT WAIT). Fluid level should just be touching the tip of the dipstick.

Filling to this level will result in the fluid reading at the diamond between 4 and 5 at 215F.

If you have Forscan and the FitzStick, you can validate when the fluid hits 120F, it should be at the center of the 1st diamond. If it is not on the level, add or suck out fluid and validate at the next higher temperature milestone.

I've successfully used this method on my last three transmission fills.

It is far easier than doing this under the truck when hot.

Transmission Levels at temperature ( F).webp
 
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I have to yet read through the last couple responses, but I wanted to throw in the latest.

Battery DEAD.

I went out this evening to go to the store and it wouldn't start. I jumped it and it started so I change out the battery. With the new battery installed it started up really strong. Everything seems to be running great. This got rid of a recent hesitation when starting that I thought was result of my highway incident or my K&N is clogged (cleaning that out after Turkey day). So i wonder if the bad battery was the culprit?

I got two codes off my ProCal Ford Performance module. P0600 - PCM Serial Communication Link Malfunction. The other is P27B5, the internet tells me that this code does not exist but a P27B4 does and it is either the internal control module transmission gear direction control performance? or Pressure Control Solenoid M Intermittent?

Ugh...ok what's next? I guess I let a dealer check the trans out. Funny they been calling me to get an extended warranty because the manufacturer warranty ran out at 75K. I assumed they don't want anything to do with the mods, so I just gave up on expecting anything out of a warranty I had long since voided.
 
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Have you looked underneath the truck to see if any transmission fluid had sprayed out?
I looked and no fluid was seen that may have burped out.
 
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to have the codes it threw would be priceless about now :(
the pre- collision could have been a combination of things that all happened at the same time?, the brain didn't know if it should shit or wind its watch LOL
the codes:
P0600
P27B5
 
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You did check it with the fluid at 200 deg+ correct?
Short answer NO, but I have learned my folly and I am getting the forscan set up with the phone app so I can have the gauges I need to observe. I assume trans temp is fluid temp or no?
 

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I have to yet read through the last couple responses, but I wanted to throw in the latest.

Battery DEAD.

I went out this evening to go to the store and it wouldn't start. I jumped it and it started so I change out the battery. With the new battery installed it started up really strong. Everything seems to be running great. This got rid of a recent hesitation when starting that I thought was result of my highway incident or my K&N is clogged (cleaning that out after Turkey day). So i wonder if the bad battery was the culprit?

I got two codes off my ProCal Ford Performance module. P0600 - PCM Serial Communication Link Malfunction. The other is P27B5, the internet tells me that this code does not exist but a P27B4 does and it is either the internal control module transmission gear direction control performance? or Pressure Control Solenoid M Intermittent?

Ugh...ok what's next? I guess I let a dealer check the trans out. Funny they been calling me to get an extended warranty because the manufacturer warranty ran out at 75K. I assumed they don't want anything to do with the mods, so I just gave up on expecting anything out of a warranty I had long since voided.
See the attached for shop manual info on those codes.
 

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