Replaced Fan Clutch Wire Support Tube - Details / How To

[98RangerDave]

The sensor was originally clocked at 10 or 11. Yours looks to be at 12.

oh it’s definitely the angle of the photo then. The sensor leans toward driver side when looking in from the front.

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[airline tech]

We have not pinpointed down exactly how much the module actually moves, there does not appear to be any (Bearing) per se that it rides on - it just free floats on the shaft.
I would love to actually get one of these apart to see
If the 5Gs were easily found in the Pick N Pull yards where you could pick one up (Cheap) I would get one just for the curiosity of tearing it apart.

As that (Free-Float) over time strains the hose (tube) poor quality, it eventually breaks and then the module is allowed to spin freely, and it pulls the harness down into the pully (Hub) attaching bolts and grabs the harness ripping it apart.

So, the true unanswered question is:
Why can the hose be disconnected and the module - WILL NOT MOVE?
and
Also create the issues of the harness damage.

What is the (wear) factor on that (free-Float) design that is causing the extra stress on the hose other than the poor quality?
Thats why I would love to see one apart - to see how that module is actually free floating, it has to be some kind of wear, and the hose (poor quality) is the weaker point of the issue.

 

[RangerBill]

We have not pinpointed down exactly how much the module actually moves, there does not appear to be any (Bearing) per se that it rides on - it just free floats on the shaft.
I would love to actually get one of these apart to see
If the 5Gs were easily found in the Pick N Pull yards where you could pick one up (Cheap) I would get one just for the curiosity of tearing it apart.

As that (Free-Float) over time strains the hose (tube) poor quality, it eventually breaks and then the module is allowed to spin freely, and it pulls the harness down into the pully (Hub) attaching bolts and grabs the harness ripping it apart.

So, the true unanswered question is:
Why can the hose be disconnected and the module - WILL NOT MOVE?
and
Also create the issues of the harness damage.

What is the (wear) factor on that (free-Float) design that is causing the extra stress on the hose other than the poor quality?
Thats why I would love to see one apart - to see how that module is actually free floating, it has to be some kind of wear, and the hose (poor quality) is the weaker point of the issue.

I found on my Ranger as the hose gets older, it gets harder and less flexible, so I believe it is the aging of the hose material causing it to fail.

 

[TJC]

My silicone hose with the reinforced copper core, holds the sensor in the original position. It doesn't flex much, just at the elbow and the engine attachment point. If there is wear (at the sensor) I suspect what was worn has ceased as the sensor doesn't appear to move much at all with varying engine speeds or cycles of the clutch.

The actual clutch may fail, but I do not think it will be due to wear at the sensor. I am not even sure a bearing exists in that sensor. It may just free float around the fan shaft. When I had the hose off, I noticed lateral movement in the sensor relative to the fan shaft. Much more than a normal bearing would allow.

 

[GhostStrykre]

shout out to this thread because when it got posted in november i checked the hose on my ranger and it was cracking/beginning to dry rot.

today i checked it again and she rotted through:

i may not have caught this before catastrophe were it not for this thread. especially since i'm out of warranty.... so thanks again!

 

[GhostStrykre]

Quick follow up, here’s the finished product I came up with:

listening to the advice of others I made the hose a bit longer than the stock hose so it would flex away from the belt. Once I tried to install I felt I made it too long and it was pressing the rotation on the clutch assembly. I suppose it’ll always be pressing, but it felt like too much. So I shortened the hose a bit and then reinstalled.

I went with two hose clamps, one on each end, instead of reusing the spring clamp from ford. Not too bad a job, though I kinda hated working with the fiddly plastic clips. Its done now, though!

 

[quangdog]

listening to the advice of others I made the hose a bit longer than the stock hose so it would flex away from the belt. Once I tried to install I felt I made it too long and it was pressing the rotation on the clutch assembly. I suppose it’ll always be pressing, but it felt like too much. So I shortened the hose a bit and then reinstalled.

I went with two hose clamps, one on each end, instead of reusing the spring clamp from ford. Not too bad a job, though I kinda working with the fiddle plastic clips. Its done now, though!

Good job - it looks great!

 

[TJC]

Quick follow up, here’s the finished product I came up with:

listening to the advice of others I made the hose a bit longer than the stock hose so it would flex away from the belt. Once I tried to install I felt I made it too long and it was pressing the rotation on the clutch assembly. I suppose it’ll always be pressing, but it felt like too much. So I shortened the hose a bit and then reinstalled.

I went with two hose clamps, one on each end, instead of reusing the spring clamp from ford. Not too bad a job, though I kinda working with the fiddle plastic clips. Its done now, though!

I'd cut or use a shorter hose clamp on the engine side. Need to insure the wire loom does not come in contact with clamp edge. The top clamp looks close to it in the picture. I'm thinking vibration or loom flex when the clutch cycles. But it does look good!

 

[GhostStrykre]

I'd cut or use a shorter hose clamp on the engine side. Need to insure the wire loom does not come in contact with clamp edge. The top clamp looks close to it in the picture. I'm thinking vibration or loom flex when the clutch cycles. But it does look good!

I see your point. I’ll double check the clearance on it and adjust as necessary. I was a bit surprised how much the clamps tightened down. Probably could’ve gotten away with a hose clamp one size down. Ah well. Thanks for the advice tho!

 

[HeatXfer]

Just an FYI:

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/thre...d-fan-sensor-crumbling-hose.28236/post-765342

 

[TJC]

Just an FYI:

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/thre...d-fan-sensor-crumbling-hose.28236/post-765342

I ran soft copper tubing in my silicone hose (to form it like the original) as well. It's been rock solid reliable since.

 

[HeatXfer]

I ran soft copper tubing in my silicone hose (to form it like the original) as well. It's been rock solid reliable since.

Gotta give crefit where it's due - THAT'S where I got the idea!

 

[got3fords]

Gotta give crefit where it's due - THAT'S where I got the idea!

What size copper tubing did you use?

 

[TJC]

Gotta give crefit where it's due - THAT'S where I got the idea!

No need for that at all.

It is good that all of us help each other.

My transmission would be totally destroyed right now if a couple of members of this group hadn't given me a simple fix that actually worked. I was a month or so away from unloading the Ranger had the fix not worked. The transmission is functioning like new.

In the next day or two I will be installing the deep PPE transmission pan and filter. Then adding the final transmission fluid change (for a while) with LubeGard Platinum.

The Tom Woods 1 piece driveshaft is another example of a member steering me in the right direction.

I am sincerely glad that it worked out for you.

Best of luck to you!

 

[goosetickler]

Thanks so much for this guide, used it yesterday to repair mine. That tube broke on the freeway, it had completely corroded. I did have a hard time trying to reuse the black clips for the wire harness to fit around the new tube so I temporarily zip tied them for now. Does anyone know if its possible to buy replacements for those clips?

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