Coolant Loss maybe Mystery

[LawnMM]

1st off Sorry to hear the bad news, just hang tough


Using this pic as a ref
The Tube with the black marks is the tube you are referencing




The upper branch out - Routes here, back into the Block

The Horizontal Branch - Out (Black Rubber Hose (with White Marks)- Routes here, note this is the tubing in your pic, pulled away from the engine and the upper branch out disconnected

It is a solid tube that branches out into rubber hoses.

One routes to the (Water Pump Housing) next to the Thermostat
2 Routes to the Engine Oil Cooler (The X3 Note Arrow) in the Pic

It looks like it is a complete assembly
Note: One of the Black hoses has a nipple on it for the 3rd hose connection to the Water Pump Housing

Reservoir Hose - Ford (KB3Z-8075-E)

Sale Price: $177.10

View attachment 220536

I checked underneath yesterday, getting ready for the appointment today, nothing apparently 'wet'

This was the only sign I could find of anything that looked like anything even remotely like a leak anywhere...

Dipstick for engine oil looks/smells okay. Same for trans. Degas bottle doesn't look as clear as it used to but no sign of anything in it, the fluid just seems 'used' now.

Everything on the checklist I could see outwardly appears okay and I've not noted any smoke.

This is either some air that worked it's way out of the system or an early but minor leak somewhere as yet undiscovered ??‍??‍?

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[Rinn69]

Here's a tiny bit of good news.....I found the video from FordTechMakuloco showing how to purge the air from the cooling system. Pretty easy to do, just takes a little time.

Keep fighting the good fight LawnMM !!!

 

[LawnMM]

How did you find that

Here's a tiny bit of good news.....I found the video from FordTechMakuloco showing how to purge the air from the cooling system. Pretty easy to do, just takes a little time.

Keep fighting the good fight LawnMM !!!

Thanks

 

[rang19ca]

Rich @LawnMM I'm sending good vibes your way for both you and the Ranger.

 

[Rinn69]

How did you find that

Thanks

It's magic ? I just searched "ford ranger 2.3 ecoboost coolant purge directions" and voilà !!

 

[Dr_Strangelove]

Sending you my prayers Ranger buddy. With modern medicine being what it is - let's hope for the best possible outcome despite the diagnosis. Sounds like you're on a good program.

 

[LawnMM]

Sending you my prayers Ranger buddy. With modern medicine being what it is - let's hope for the best possible outcome despite the diagnosis. Sounds like you're on a good program.

Good as anyone could hope for, I didn't mean to derail the thread, just been a rough weak for the feels

So I dropped it off this morning feeling sheepish because it was the first time the level held steady like it always had.

I wound up heading home feeling more like this was air burping it's way out of the system and the bottle filling the void.

Got a call just as I got to work, passed the pressure test with flying colors, no signs of a leak anywhere, good to go ???‍?

So now I feel a little like an automotive hypochondriac ? but we are trying to plan a little vacation with everything that's been going on to the Colorado Mtns. Weather is pretty unpredictable this time of year (have a story for another time about that) and I didn't want to wind up navigating a blizzard on the way home through a mountain pass with a coolant leak.

Rich

 

[TJC]

That's it, in your last photo. As well as the ones above routed around behind the motor. What's it feeding?

It was below minimum when I first found it, I topped it off, and it was down to minimize AGAIN shortly thereafter ?

The coolant has to be going somewhere. I'm putting my fitzstick back on today, and getting ready to drop it off tomorrow again, so hopefully this isn't a head gasket, bad cylinder, etc. That's really going to kick me in the balls right now.

You may have lost a surprising amount of coolant when they swapped the transmission, and if they simply topped off the radiator it is quite possible that there were major pockets of air in the upper part of the engine that were not cleared out (but should have been) when they topped it off.

I use a tall funnel that attaches to the fill point on my radiator or where ever they put the fill point these days (I have the adapters for them all) . I fill engine full, start the engine and wait for the T-stat to open and watch the fluid rise into the funnel, then as the engine burbs the coolant drops well below the funnel and I top it off again. Then let it cool over night, check it again and repeat the process until all the air pockets are gone. You can leave the funnel attached with coolant in it and it will be drawn in overnight as the engine cools. The yellow stem in the picture in the note following this one is sued to plug the funnel and allow yo to put the excess back into the coolant jug. Pretty handy!

Running a modern aluminum engine with air pockets is a bad idea. Keep it at or just a little above idle until you know all the air is out of the system.

 

[TJC]

Here's a link to the funnels that I use to do the job. They are inexpensive and work well

Radiator Funnels Amazon

There are many choices some with extensions if needed

 

[pismo1]

Would that work on the plastic bottle on the Ranger?

 

[airline tech]

From The Ranger Manual:

This procedure is for a Drain & Fill, so it is perceived that you are starting with a cold or cool engine (Thermostat Closed)

1. Turn off climate control
2. Start Engine (From Cold)
3. 3500 RPM for 30-Seconds
4. Engine OFF - 1-Minute
5. Check (Coolant Level) - Ensure at Max
6. Start Engine and IDLE until (Normal Operating Temp) - Thermostat - OPEN

6. 3500 ROM for 30-Seconds
7. Idle - 30-Seconds
8. Engine - Off - 1-Minute
9. Check Coolant Level - Ensure at Max

Repeat - Steps (6-9) for a total of 10 Times

Note: This is the basic procedure, and I have not done this on a newer Ford as I am used to having a bleeder port for this process along with my Vacuum Fill Tool. Since the Ranger does not have that installed, this is the process they provide.
I will say that (unless you have some serious air in the system) the total of 10 times may not be needed.

 

[airline tech]

Would that work on the plastic bottle on the Ranger?

I have seen these kit (they come with various) adaptors - (Fit the Ranger - Tank?)
But I have not used one - they look cheaply made, so unsure if they will work as described.

 

[TJC]

I have used those funnels on my 2005 Ranger and on my 2003 Maxima with very good results. I have not needed to use it on mt 2020 Ranger yet, but I will go look see if it fits later today.

The benefit from using a funnel like this is that it raises the coolant level above the highest coolant point in the engine. You do not get the typical overflow from the fill point when the T-Stat opens.

Mine has been in used since 2005 and it has never leaked. It mates with most any auto radiator cap.

In past usage I have never had to cycle the engine more than twice to remove the air.

Use whatever method you want, but before jumping to a conclusion that the system is losing fluid and needs work, it is wise to insure that the system has been successful refilled with coolant. Esp since the coolant system was drained. That transmission cooler is at the low point of the cooling system. Removing it would definitely result in coolant loss, and air entering the system. And that air would become trapped in the highest point of the cooling system.

In a normal world the service tech would have insured the coolant system was topped off and all air purged. But we no longer live in a normal world. I have witnessed shoddy service far too many times.

So whatever method the OP uses, the very first thing that he should be doing is purging the air from the system. If the coolant level continues to drop then he has a problem.

So by the FORD BOOK, He has 8 more tries to get it right before assuming he is losing coolant.

FWIW, That is the same procedure that I use with the funnel attached to the radiator cap. I get as much coolant into the system at a single time as possible. Once I think it has taken all it can, I plug the funnel, remove it from the radiator, and if needed add it to the overflow reservoir. The next morning I check the level in the overflow reservoir and if low top it off.

 

[5thranger]

From The Ranger Manual:

This procedure is for a Drain & Fill, so it is perceived that you are starting with a cold or cool engine (Thermostat Closed)

1. Turn off climate control
2. Start Engine (From Cold)
3. 3500 RPM for 30-Seconds
4. Engine OFF - 1-Minute
5. Check (Coolant Level) - Ensure at Max
6. Start Engine and IDLE until (Normal Operating Temp) - Thermostat - OPEN

6. 3500 ROM for 30-Seconds
7. Idle - 30-Seconds
8. Engine - Off - 1-Minute
9. Check Coolant Level - Ensure at Max

Repeat - Steps (6-9) for a total of 10 Times

Note: This is the basic procedure, and I have not done this on a newer Ford as I am used to having a bleeder port for this process along with my Vacuum Fill Tool. Since the Ranger does not have that installed, this is the process they provide.
I will say that (unless you have some serious air in the system) the total of 10 times may not be needed.

I have used a procedure similar to this on my Edge and my F150 when I converted them to gold coolant it works well.

 

[TJC]

Here's a link to the funnels that I use to do the job. They are inexpensive and work well

Radiator Funnels Amazon

There are many choices some with extensions if needed

The Funnel works well on older autos with a radiator cap.

Well, I just ran out a took a peek under the hood... No old school radiator cap! Just the overflow tank that appears to be pressurized under load. So this funnel system is not appropriate for 5G Rangers.

This is what happens when you keep your cars for 15-20 year cycles.... a lot changes!

I am not certain that you can fill the system correctly without using a vacuum system to do it. I know what Ford says, but I have seen cars hold air pockets for long periods of time.

Update: just found this video of a fellow who could not purge the air from his 2020 Ranger.

He finally took it in and had a vacuum fill to correct. Cost him ~$350

I long for the simple wrenching days!

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