TerraMechE
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This is irrational; but the heart wants what the heart wants. In case anyone was curious, here's how I happened to do it:
On the front:
-Bronco control arms (wider than Ranger for slightly more wheel travel and tire clearance)
-F150 tie rods (2010s vintage, if I recall correctly)
-Reamed the knuckles to accept the bigger UCA and tie rod ball joint tapers
-Widen upper control arm mount at the frame to accept bronco UCA (LCA just bolts up)
-Axle half shafts are Bronco parts with Ranger inner cups
-Cut 2" out of the fenders (my engine bay misses my fender liners)
-Modified, revalved, and shortened King pr2508od-cohr-a dampers with parts from Filthy Motorsports and custom machined coilover adapter to suit the "Branger" setup
-Running max caster at the LCA to move the tire forward in the wheel well
-When you think you've cut enough, cut more and cycle the suspension without springs to check clearance at bump and steering lock
Rear:
-1" spacers (would have gone just a bit wider in hindsight)
-Spring under axle setup with modified Rubicon Express Jeep XJ 6" lift leaf pack
-Laser cut 12" shackles
-Short body Bilstein 7100s 10" stroke, 360/80 valving modified for less bleed
-Cut fenders
-Raptor bump stops (stock shown)
Other:
-17x8.5 +25mm offset Method 313's (positive offset helps a bit with scrub radius and clearance at full steer lock)
-Ford Performance tune and 91+ octane always
-Cooper AT3 XLT 37x12.5r17 (note some photos show my old 285/75r17s)
Still to do:
-4.46 gears are ready to go in
-Rear needs more clearance to bed at full articulation. Thinking about a welding up a "trail" flatbed...
Dreams:
-Bronco m210 front diff or Dana Ultimate FDU
-Link the rear or just run longer leafs and bigger dampers with a bedcage
-wider rear axle (or just run negative offset rear wheels and forget about tire rotations, lol)
-4.88 gears
-raw finish bead locks or method bead grips
This was the rough plan since I bought this truck 3.5 years ago. I've been slowly doing all this stuff with 37s in mind and I still have lots more to do to make it really "work" the way I want it to.
As an aside, I run the transmission only in 'S' mode. With the 37s, a "built" 10r80 or at least some transmission tuning might called for soon; I'll see how the 4.46 gears feel.
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