Ranger Starting issue - Not the fuel pump

[Digbird1]

I have a 1994 Ford Ranger XLT with a 2.3 L engine. The battery, starter and starter relay are all less than a year old. The furl pump is about 3 years old. Suddenly one morning a little over a week ago it just clicked when I tried to start it. I charged the battery, swapped out the starter relay with no luck. I read some posts about straightened out the steering to start it, That didn't work. I pulled a couple of the relays out of the power distribution box and then put them back in the same module. All this din't change anything. Finally after the truck had been sitting in my parking spot for six days I took a hammer and lightly tapped on the starter solenoid and it cranked over like banshee. But now it won't fire, It's never done that before. I had a mechanic come over and he checked if it was getting and he said it wasn't. He's thinks that during the time the Ranger was sitting the fuel pump froze up. Before I take the box off again I'd like some opinions on if something tried could be causing the pump to not get power, But the pump itself be ok? or maybe the sock/filter clogged?
Thanks for your input!

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[RangerBill]

Have you checked if the fuel pump inertia switch is tripped? Can you verify voltage is getting to the fuel pump with a voltmeter? Is the fuse for the fuel pump good?

 

[airline tech]

I think you have confirmed, the starter is bad - hammer trick tells me that. Bad spot on the armature.
Now for the sudden crank but no start, I would take a close look at the fuses in that relay box and note which relays you pulled out to T/Shoot. You have 2 important relays in the box.
PCM Power Relay and the Fuel Pump Relay.
Note relays (more importantly) the pins on the relay box are fragile as they age, it is possible you self-induced the no start issue.

Pull the relays you removed again and check the pins on the relay box and make sure they are intact and not pushed down.
It might be a good idea for a quick (shotgun) of parts is to replace both of those relays and then if no help dig deep into the T-Shoot of voltage checks with a meter.
My gut tells me that this is self-induced at the relay box.

You should be able to hear the fuel pump prime when you take the ignition switch to Run Position, it should kick on for a few seconds, note it will take a crank sequence for it to repeat (injector pulse) to get it to prime in a quick succession for testing. (pressure build)

 

[Digbird1]

I think you have confirmed, the starter is bad - hammer trick tells me that. Bad spot on the armature.
Now for the sudden crank but no start, I would take a close look at the fuses in that relay box and note which relays you pulled out to T/Shoot. You have 2 important relays in the box.
PCM Power Relay and the Fuel Pump Relay.
Note relays (more importantly) the pins on the relay box are fragile as they age, it is possible you self-induced the no start issue.

Pull the relays you removed again and check the pins on the relay box and make sure they are intact and not pushed down.
It might be a good idea for a quick (shotgun) of parts is to replace both of those relays and then if no help dig deep into the T-Shoot of voltage checks with a meter.
My gut tells me that this is self-induced at the relay box.

You should be able to hear the fuel pump prime when you take the ignition switch to Run Position, it should kick on for a few seconds, note it will take a crank sequence for it to repeat (injector pulse) to get it to prime in a quick succession for testing. (pressure build)

Thanks for your reply. If the fuel pump sock/filter is clogged or the fuel pickup intake is rusted shut would you still expect to hear the pump prime? When I turn the key to "Run" I hear nothing.

 

[9zero1790]

if it was a filter problem or clogged up sock it would still try to crank up just not fire as fuel is not in the system past the clog. The hammer hit on starter makes me think that would be the next part to swap. however the inertia switch mentioned is a well know booger on the older rangers. i have an 05 and it runs great but a few times a week i have to try the key two sometimes three times for the stupid inertia switch. and then it fires right up. done that for over 140k so far so im not replacing it till no more crank up lol.

 

[Digbird1]

if it was a filter problem or clogged up sock it would still try to crank up just not fire as fuel is not in the system past the clog. The hammer hit on starter makes me think that would be the next part to swap. however the inertia switch mentioned is a well know booger on the older rangers. i have an 05 and it runs great but a few times a week i have to try the key two sometimes three times for the stupid inertia switch. and then it fires right up. done that for over 140k so far so im not replacing it till no more crank up lol.

Thanks,
I don't know what the inertia switch is so I'll have to google it. It cranks over like a banshee. It just doesn't fire up like it normally does. It's normally fires right up. This happened while it was sitting in my parking spot.

 

[9zero1790]

So it's hard for me to explain as I'm no expert but basically the switch is supposed to stop fuel from being pumped in bad situations like after a hard crash or roll over etc. But they don't work perfect and often need to a go or two to allow fuel. So in my case if the trucks been sitting a while it will start first crank. But if I've been driving and stop for say 30 mins and try to restart I have to key it 2 or 3 times.

 

[TJC]

I'd also note that many aftermarket fuel pumps have spotty reliability records. I just went through the fuel pump replacement process, and purchased a Ford Fuel pump. It was much more expensive, but it is a pain to pull the bed and get into the tank, and I don't want to do it more often than necessary.

I have heard of aftermarket pumps failing as early as 6 months after installation. Something to consider as well.

 

[RangerBill]

Thanks,
I don't know what the inertia switch is so I'll have to google it. It cranks over like a banshee.

Your owner's manual will have info about how to reset the inertia switch. I believe it is behind the right hand kick panel, but your manual will show its location.

 

[Digbird1]

I'd also note that many aftermarket fuel pumps have spotty reliability records. I just went through the fuel pump replacement process, and purchased a Ford Fuel pump. It was much more expensive, but it is a pain to pull the bed and get into the tank, and I don't want to do it more often than necessary.

I have heard of aftermarket pumps failing as early as 6 months after installation. Something to consider as well.

OK, Thanks for the info. It does seem strange to me that the pump could just die while the truck was sitting in my parking spot for 6 days. I bought a Masterpro Fuel pump and went through the hassle of taking the bed off and installing it in early 2022. Of course the pump only has a 1 year warranty.

 

[RangerBill]

Have you checked your fuel pump fuse?

 

[airline tech]

OK, Thanks for the info. It does seem strange to me that the pump could just die while the truck was sitting in my parking spot for 6 days. I bought a Masterpro Fuel pump and went through the hassle of taking the bed off and installing it in early 2022. Of course the pump only has a 1 year warranty.

Did you pull either one of the relays - PCM Power or Fuel Pump in the troubleshooting?
If so, this would be the very first thing to check, the engine will not start (Injectors) or (Fuel Pump) will not be powered if you have an issue at those relays.
Before you go down the wrong rabbit hole and replace the fuel pump.
The pump does not have a moving (Inlet-Pickup)
If there were any debris (rust / dirt) clogging the pick-up filter (sock) it would drop off the end of the sock at engine shutdown.
The fuel pump works like (sucking on a straw) except the fuel pump is providing the sucking action from the bottom of the tank, so this means when the pump is not running the vacuum is released on the sock and the debris will drop off of it, when the pump is running and the debris finds its way back to the sock, you will get more of a cut out stalling issue (This will be intermittent)
So, if you are not hearing any noise (fuel pump-prime) then it is not getting power, or the pump is bad.
Although, possible that you had (2) issues at once - starter and pump, starter you confirmed and working until it hits that dead spot on the armature again is working.
I strongly feel that the issue is at the relays you pulled for the no start issue.

The best way to test if the pump is bad is to use a meter at the pump connector, cycle the ignition switch and check if you get voltage.

 

[TJC]

I do think following Airline tech's process is best course of action, start with the easy stuff, and remember to try to half the problem area each time you take a diagnostic step.

Getting to the pump connector is not so easy. I'd rule out all the of simple possibilities first.

That tapping the solenoid / starter has worked for me in the past, but you should hear pump cycle..

So we know he has 2 issues. Intermittent starter, and fuel pump or fuel pump power/control related issue.

My fathers 98 Ranger had a poor fuel pump ground that I could never find. It was up in the wiring bundle under the relay box on the drivers side. I finally ran a wire from the contact in the fuse panel to a fender bolt. I never liked the solution, but it ran for years that way. (I didn't have the wiring schematic and was too lazy to rip open the wiring bundle and trace the wire to the problem.)

 

[airline tech]

I do think following Airline tech's process is best course of action, start with the easy stuff, and remember to try to half the problem area each time you take a diagnostic step.

Getting to the pump connector is not so easy. I'd rule out all the of simple possibilities first.

That tapping the solenoid / starter has worked for me in the past, but you should hear pump cycle..

So we know he has 2 issues. Intermittent starter, and fuel pump or fuel pump power/control related issue.

My fathers 98 Ranger had a poor fuel pump ground that I could never find. It was up in the wiring bundle under the relay box on the drivers side. I finally ran a wire from the contact in the fuse panel to a fender bolt. I never liked the solution, but it ran for years that way. (I didn't have the wiring schematic and was too lazy to rip open the wiring bundle and trace the wire to the problem.)

That was my point - easy stuff first
He stated he removed & reinstalled some relays- Which Ones?
If he installed the relay and one the contact pins pushed down, that relay is not going to power correctly - if truck was running fine before he touched those relays then it indicates and points to a highly probable source.
Or one of the relays - crapped out

The starter and starter relay are a separate issue sort of, both issues tie into the Ignition Switch.

I was giving solutions without diving down the Rabbit Hole of troubleshooting with a meter for power. Yes, the Fuel Pump and connector are buried, so if you jumper the Fuel Pump Relay and the pump still does not run, then it boils down to wiring or pump.
Edit: If the Inertia Switch has not tripped
Pumps are expensive so it is a wise idea before you spend the money on a new pump would be to ensure the pump connector has power - if the connector has power, then you have confirmed a bad pump.

If it is the pump, you may be able to fist bump the tank, preferably the top of the pump to get it running, same as the starter.

The reason I am pushing to the relays is that the PCM Power Relay, closes and puts power on the Coil Side of the Fuel Pump Relay.
Another possible and already mentioned is the Fuel Inertia Switch, tripped when the Fuel Pump Relay was removed and reinstalled (circuit disruption)
Located on the Passenger Side (Transmission Hump) - (Near the Firewall)

 

[Digbird1]

That was my point - easy stuff first
He stated he removed & reinstalled some relays- Which Ones?
If he installed the relay and one the contact pins pushed down, that relay is not going to power correctly - if truck was running fine before he touched those relays then it indicates and points to a highly probable source.
Or one of the relays - crapped out

The starter and starter relay are a separate issue sort of, both issues tie into the Ignition Switch.

I was giving solutions without diving down the Rabbit Hole of troubleshooting with a meter for power. Yes, the Fuel Pump and connector are buried, so if you jumper the Fuel Pump Relay and the pump still does not run, then it boils down to wiring or pump.
Edit: If the Inertia Switch has not tripped
Pumps are expensive so it is a wise idea before you spend the money on a new pump would be to ensure the pump connector has power - if the connector has power, then you have confirmed a bad pump.

If it is the pump, you may be able to fist bump the tank, preferably the top of the pump to get it running, same as the starter.

The reason I am pushing to the relays is that the PCM Power Relay, closes and puts power on the Coil Side of the Fuel Pump Relay.
Another possible and already mentioned is the Fuel Inertia Switch, tripped when the Fuel Pump Relay was removed and reinstalled (circuit disruption)
Located on the Passenger Side (Transmission Hump) - (Near the Firewall)

I switched the fuel pump relay with the other two relays, I think one is for the heater/AC and the other is

That was my point - easy stuff first
He stated he removed & reinstalled some relays- Which Ones?
If he installed the relay and one the contact pins pushed down, that relay is not going to power correctly - if truck was running fine before he touched those relays then it indicates and points to a highly probable source.
Or one of the relays - crapped out

The starter and starter relay are a separate issue sort of, both issues tie into the Ignition Switch.

I was giving solutions without diving down the Rabbit Hole of troubleshooting with a meter for power. Yes, the Fuel Pump and connector are buried, so if you jumper the Fuel Pump Relay and the pump still does not run, then it boils down to wiring or pump.
Edit: If the Inertia Switch has not tripped
Pumps are expensive so it is a wise idea before you spend the money on a new pump would be to ensure the pump connector has power - if the connector has power, then you have confirmed a bad pump.

If it is the pump, you may be able to fist bump the tank, preferably the top of the pump to get it running, same as the starter.

The reason I am pushing to the relays is that the PCM Power Relay, closes and puts power on the Coil Side of the Fuel Pump Relay.
Another possible and already mentioned is the Fuel Inertia Switch, tripped when the Fuel Pump Relay was removed and reinstalled (circuit disruption)
Located on the Passenger Side (Transmission Hump) - (Near the Firewall)

Thanks again for the input. I swapped the fuel relay, the middle one with both other relays - no change, I checked the inertia switch and it hasn't been triggered. I also tried jumping the fuel relay. Could I have messed up something in the wiring or ground switching out the solenoid?

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