Non-auto Dimming Rear View Mirror Power

[Boogie Man]

Trying to install wiretap kit for countermeasure in 21 Ranger stx and don't have a multi-meter at location. Installs and pics I've seen have all been on models with auto-dimming rear view mirrors and I do not have the same color wires/plugs next to the module under the plastic cover in the windshield.

I'm assuming black is ground as usual but trying to figure out which of the other wires is switch power.

Anyone ever install a wiretap on the base trucks? Or can anyone tell me what color would be switch power on the base trucks on that plug?

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[airline tech]

If you are looking at a 5-Wire connector:

Pin #1 - Blue / Brown is Switched Power
Pin #2 - Green / Brown - Reverse Signal Trigger for the Camera Display on the mirror and opens the video feed (pins #4 and #5)
Pin #3 - Black / Grey - Ground
Pin #4 - White / Green - (+) video feed for the camera
Note: Pin #5 is Blue/ Grey, don't confuse this one for switched power, this is the (-) video feed for the camera.

 

[subquark]

Trying to install wiretap kit for countermeasure in 21 Ranger stx and don't have a multi-meter at location. Installs and pics I've seen have all been on models with auto-dimming rear view mirrors and I do not have the same color wires/plugs next to the module under the plastic cover in the windshield.

I'm assuming black is ground as usual but trying to figure out which of the other wires is switch power.

Anyone ever install a wiretap on the base trucks? Or can anyone tell me what color would be switch power on the base trucks on that plug?

I don't have a fancy mirror and did a wire tap for my dashcam. It was easy to run the wire in headiner and A-pillar. I was not comfortable tapping anything up in my manual mirror.

Wife's Mazda was a breeze with a Dongar mirror thing.

But the wire tap on Soupie has held up very well.

 

[Boogie Man]

If you are looking at a 5-Wire connector:

Pin #1 - Blue / Brown is Switched Power
Pin #2 - Green / Brown - Reverse Signal Trigger for the Camera Display on the mirror and opens the video feed (pins #4 and #5)
Pin #3 - Black / Grey - Ground
Pin #4 - White / Green - (+) video feed for the camera
Note: Pin #5 is Blue/ Grey, don't confuse this one for switched power, this is the (-) video feed for the camera.

I don't see a 5 wire connector. I have one plug with 4 wires, 6 wires going into that sensor/module

 

[airline tech]

Ok, it appears you have the XL with the STX Package, which means the Rear Camera is moved to the Sync Screen and is not using the Rear View Mirror as the Camera.

The connector you have disconnected in the Pic is C919, this is the main harness feed down from the headliner, to the Main Connector Point as noted in my attached pic.

Since it appears that you do not have Rain Sense and do not have the Auto-Dim Mirror, you only have the bare minimum wire harness run.

The wire diagram still shows 6 wires in that connector (C919)
Power & Ground + Can Bus Communication to the IPMA (Module), but that does not matter anyway as the other wires are just Can Bus Wiring.
The important factor is there is only (1) Power source at that connector. (Noted Below)

But to answer your question

The connector you have disconnected (C919) is a 14 Cavity Connector with only 4 wires.

Pin # 1 - Black / Grey - Ground
Pin # 9 - Brown / Yellow - Switched Power
Note: Pin #9 is switched power and fed from Fuse 23 (Engine Bay) Fuse Box
This is a 7.5 Amp Fuse
That is a low amp fuse meant to only power the IPMA and Related Systems,
Cruise Control, Blind Spot, Rear Camera Etc.
Tapping into this and adding a current draw will most likely blow the fuse or create power issues for the IPMA or related systems.

Even if it does not blow the fuse, it is still a safety related system, that would be best not to tap into.

The Auto-Dim Mirror wiring adds a 15 Amp Fused (switched power source)
Which you are missing and do not have.
Which would have been C919 (Blue/ Brown) Pin #2, on the connector you have disconnected.

Your best option would be to use another tapped power source as posted above, and then you could just route the wire up to the mirror.


The connector that is still connected (IPMA) has 2 separate wires coming off of it that feed the small windshield heater for the (IPMA) Camera that bypass the inline connector C919.
This is why there are 6-wires here.

 

[Boogie Man]

Ok, it appears you have the XL with the STX Package, which means the Rear Camera is moved to the Sync Screen and is not using the Rear View Mirror as the Camera.

The connector you have disconnected in the Pic is C919, this is the main harness feed down from the headliner, to the Main Connector Point as noted in my attached pic.

Since it appears that you do not have Rain Sense and do not have the Auto-Dim Mirror, you only have the bare minimum wire harness run.

The wire diagram still shows 6 wires in that connector (C919)
Power & Ground + Can Bus Communication to the IPMA (Module), but that does not matter anyway as the other wires are just Can Bus Wiring.
The important factor is there is only (1) Power source at that connector. (Noted Below)

But to answer your question

The connector you have disconnected (C919) is a 14 Cavity Connector with only 4 wires.

Pin # 1 - Black / Grey - Ground
Pin # 9 - Brown / Yellow - Switched Power
Note: Pin #9 is switched power and fed from Fuse 23 (Engine Bay) Fuse Box
This is a 7.5 Amp Fuse
That is a low amp fuse meant to only power the IPMA and Related Systems,
Cruise Control, Blind Spot, Rear Camera Etc.
Tapping into this and adding a current draw will most likely blow the fuse or create power issues for the IPMA or related systems.

Even if it does not blow the fuse, it is still a safety related system, that would be best not to tap into.

The Auto-Dim Mirror wiring adds a 15 Amp Fused (switched power source)
Which you are missing and do not have.
Which would have been C919 (Blue/ Brown) Pin #2, on the connector you have disconnected.

Your best option would be to use another tapped power source as posted above, and then you could just route the wire up to the mirror.


The connector that is still connected (IPMA) has 2 separate wires coming off of it that feed the small windshield heater for the (IPMA) Camera that bypass the inline connector C919.
This is why there are 6-wires here.

Well shit

Thanks for your thorough replies. I think my countermeasure came with a hard-wired option that I guess I'll have to look into

Thank you both

 

[airline tech]

It still may be possible to use that as a power source.
But it depends on a few factors.
As you have the XL, some of the Power Feed from that Fuse 23, may not be installed.
It depends on what you have - Installed as some of these may not be installed.

Wire diagrams do not weed out options that are not installed (sometimes)

That Fuse Feeds:
Cruise Cont Module (CCM)
Blind Spot System (BLIS) Left & Right
Rear Camera
4X4 (Switch) Power (Switch Only)
Img Processing Module (IPMA)

Plus, the other factor is what does the manufacturer documents state as hard-wired power source.

Ref: For Power

All Power Points (Cigarette Lighter - Type Plugs) = 20 Amp Fuse for each port
Engine Bay Fuse Box:
Power Point #1 - Fuse 10
Power Point #2 -Fuse 16
Rear Power Point - Fuse 5

Rear USB Port - 7.5 Amp Fuse, only powers the Rear USB Charge (only) port.
Engine Bay Fuse Box - Fuse 29

Front USB HUB, either single or dual ports, power from the APIM (Sync Screen) Charge & Data
APIM is powered from Fuse # 31 (BCM)
15 Amp

Now Ref: Soupie's tap above.

He tapped into BCM - Fuse #29, which is a 30 Amp fused circuit, which by the diagrams show it is not used (spare)
He has piggy backed either a 3 Amp or 5 Amp fuse, to only power the Dash Cam
The color difference between them is close, so I cannot tell for sure what amperage he used.

I am sure the Amp Draw from a dash cam is not much (maybe 0.5 to 1.5 Amps), but the main factor is what else is on the circuit you are tapping into. (How many Amps is normal?) and what can you add and still keep it (under the fuse rating)

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