Move gear to neutral w/o engine power.

[Trustable]

Hello,
Was changing my oil today went to torque drain plug and it snapped before it hit the recommended spec 20ftlbs from ford. I have no interest in fighting ford on this as they won’t care and how will I prove it. The head is snapped off and probably could be gotten with a screw extractor. I am way to nervous to do that in case I make it worse so am having it towed to dealership with aaa. Dealership apt is next Friday but they said they may be able to get to it sooner. They were the earliest as well, next earliest was end of November. Being my only vehicle with no family near this is a shitty situation. But enough of the pity party, anyone know how to shift to neutral w/o engine power? Won’t shift with accessory and i am not sure if aaa knows how? Not sure as I’ve never needed a tow. I have plastered the inside of car with signs so the techs don’t start it by mistake as well.

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[RedDakooter05]

Are you applying brake? I can shift out of park with the key in the run/on position (not cranking, just the on position)

The run position is after accessories position.

 

[Trustable]

Are you applying brake? I can shift out of park with the key in the run/on position (not cranking, just the on position)

The run position is after accessories position.

I’m an idiot thanks. Was so nervous to accidentally start didn’t try that. Works perfectly thank you!!!!

 

[Trustable]

Also just out of curiosity, anyone have any torqure wrenches they recommend I was using a harbor freight click one, will only be using that one on wheels from now on. I was looking at at the split beam from tekton. I like their other tools but never used their torque wrench.

 

[Joeiconic]

I don’t even know why an oil drain plug has a torque spec.

 

[Trustable]

I don’t even know why an oil drain plug has a torque spec.

How do you mean? If my torque wrench was correct or possibly the bolt was bad I’d imagine I wouldn’t of had an issue.

 

[subquark]

I’m an idiot thanks. Was so nervous to accidentally start didn’t try that. Works perfectly thank you!!!!

Good luck with it and I feel your pain. Kate and I had only one car for 10 years and it was always stressful when it went to the shop (which it did many times - 1995 Chevy Lumina).

I'm a day late, but I wonder how you'd like something like this?

I believe @Fordup and/or @Grumpaw use this or the other brand (escapes me now).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HP5V10A

 

[RedDakooter05]

I’m an idiot thanks. Was so nervous to accidentally start didn’t try that. Works perfectly thank you!!!!

You could pull the fuel pump relay/fuses (Don't ask where, I have no idea) to help protect the engine, short of unhooking the battery anyway.


As for torque, it will be very low.. Go easy on it lol.

 

[subquark]

How do you mean? If my torque wrench was correct or possibly the bolt was bad I’d imagine I wouldn’t of had an issue.

And 20 lb-ft isn't a high torque, so clearly a bad bolt (or you have secret Hulk powers). Or it might have been partially sheared from the assembly line. =)

 

[Joeiconic]

How do you mean? If my torque wrench was correct or possibly the bolt was bad I’d imagine I wouldn’t of had an issue.

I mean just snug the damn thing down and use common sense. There have been a lot of bolt heads sheered off by guys waiting on the almighty “click” of the torque wrench. “I mean it feels really tight, but the wrench hasn’t clicked, so I’ll keep going…..

 

[Trustable]

Good luck with it and I feel your pain. Kate and I had only one car for 10 years and it was always stressful when it went to the shop (which it did many times - 1995 Chevy Lumina).

I'm a day late, but I wonder how you'd like something like this?

I believe @Fordup and/or @Grumpaw use this or the other brand (escapes me now).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HP5V10A

Yeah i am pretty nervous along with my wallet. Never had a vehicle in the shop not with warranty issues. 189 just to diagnose, even though I know the issue and how to fix it. I am hoping they just use an extractor and replace. I have looked into those and they seem very nice. But I am irrationally afraid they would leak if somehow the lever/ball rotated from debris or rattle. I doubt this is even a possibility though. If I was planning on keeping the ranger long term I would definitely be buying one right now just to have on hand. After this incident I’m done doing mechanical work besides tire rotations and really easy stuff on the ranger. It’s my only vehicle and I am 2 hours away from nearest family. I can’t risk it. I don’t feel right asking my neighbors to help/drive especially when they just had a kid. I’m planning on moving even more remote possibly Montana or ND so I need to start thinking about another vehicle possibly for incidents like this or just other issues.

 

[Trustable]

And 20 lb-ft isn't a high torque, so clearly a bad bolt (or you have secret Hulk powers). Or it might have been partially sheared from the assembly line. =)

yeah exactly. I’m leaning towards bad bolt possibly as it didn’t feel even close to 20 when it snapped.

 

[Trustable]

I mean just snug the damn thing down and use common sense. There have been a lot of bolt heads sheered off by guys waiting on the almighty “click” of the torque wrench. “I mean it feels really tight, but the wrench hasn’t clicked, so I’ll keep going…..

I get ya for sure. I prefer torque specs because it keeps human error out of the equation, but realistically it didn’t feel any different then the last 4 times I’ve torqued it. I’m also relatively new to working on this kinda stuff compared to most people on here. The thing is you don’t snug it down enough you may have a catastrophic engine failure, too much and it snaps.

 

[Trustable]

You could pull the fuel pump relay/fuses (Don't ask where, I have no idea) to help protect the engine, short of unhooking the battery anyway.


As for torque, it will be very low.. Go easy on it lol.

Yeah I’m thinking of disconnecting the battery, I think the positive and negative are a quick disconnect as well?

 

[Trustable]

Okay well I figured out how to do it without battery power as well, maybe this will help someone in the future.

1. pull shiftboot from the bottom. It’s gonna feel like your gonna rip it but there are clips that disconnect when you do this
2. Once removed look inside and locate the whit plunger looking piece on back right of the assembly
3. With screwdriver or other tool push plunger in with one hand and hold brake with foot. Then you should be able to shift to neutral or other gear.
   
   

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