I had an afternoon....

[RedlandRanger]

I got the "oil change is due soon" message on the dash, so I decided to do my usual oil change and tire rotation. No big deal - that was easy - then I remembered I bought new plugs a while back after all the talk of the rusted plug #1. I thought "replacing plugs should be easy, they are right on the top of the engine". Well, it didn't quite work out that way.....Plug #4 (the one in the back) is really hard to get off the coil pack due to something else being right over top of it - this is important later in the story....

First, I realized I didn't have a plug socket with the rubber insert to hold the plug. That made both removing and installing the new plugs extra hard due to the big hole they are in. I worked thru that with not too much issue. Got all the plugs replaced - It didn't take TOO long. Started up the truck and it didn't sound right - like one cylinder was out. I plugged in my Innova scan tool and sure enough, beside the flashing engine light on the dash, it told me there was a misfire on plug #4 (I had to go look up how they numbered the plugs to make sure I knew which plug it was). I remembered when I put the coil pack on it felt kind of weird. Toying with that for a bit and it went back on like I felt it should. Fire up the engine and it still seemed to be misfiring. Plug in the scan tool again and I get some other code. I'm really worried now - but I go look in the engine bay and then realize I did something stupid. When I was messing with the coil back on plug #4, I unplugged it so I could move it around better - I forgot to plug it back in. I was sure I had figured it out - I mean really, how hard can replacing spark plugs be? Anyway, started it up and it sounded normal - drove normal - no flashing engine on the dash. BUT - when I plugged in the Innova scan tool, it was still telling me the P0354 (I think that was it) code. I cleared it, recylced the ignition and it kept coming up. It just didn't seem like it was a good code - I went and got my laptop and my Forscan cable and hooked it up. It came up with some other werid codes, including the U0422 which I got when I changed the speedo for my new tires. But nothing related to the coil pack. I decided to clear all the codes and then recycle everything and restarted the truck. Did that, and then reconnected Forscan - no new codes (other than the U0422). Repeated the cycling of the engine a couple of times and it still came up clear.

So, if you've bothered to read this far - wondering what others think - I'm sure Forscan was correct - the truck sounded and ran normal after I fixed the coil pack. Why did the Innova tool keep pulling that code? Anyone know?

What should have been an hour and half job max turned into about 3 1/2 hours - but now I have fresh oil, fresh plugs and freshly rotated tires.... Ready for another year of driving....

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[Tracy Bowman]

I got the "oil change is due soon" message on the dash, so I decided to do my usual oil change and tire rotation. No big deal - that was easy - then I remembered I bought new plugs a while back after all the talk of the rusted plug #1. I thought "replacing plugs should be easy, they are right on the top of the engine". Well, it didn't quite work out that way.....Plug #4 (the one in the back) is really hard to get off the coil pack due to something else being right over top of it - this is important later in the story....

First, I realized I didn't have a plug socket with the rubber insert to hold the plug. That made both removing and installing the new plugs extra hard due to the big hole they are in. I worked thru that with not too much issue. Got all the plugs replaced - It didn't take TOO long. Started up the truck and it didn't sound right - like one cylinder was out. I plugged in my Innova scan tool and sure enough, beside the flashing engine light on the dash, it told me there was a misfire on plug #4 (I had to go look up how they numbered the plugs to make sure I knew which plug it was). I remembered when I put the coil pack on it felt kind of weird. Toying with that for a bit and it went back on like I felt it should. Fire up the engine and it still seemed to be misfiring. Plug in the scan tool again and I get some other code. I'm really worried now - but I go look in the engine bay and then realize I did something stupid. When I was messing with the coil back on plug #4, I unplugged it so I could move it around better - I forgot to plug it back in. I was sure I had figured it out - I mean really, how hard can replacing spark plugs be? Anyway, started it up and it sounded normal - drove normal - no flashing engine on the dash. BUT - when I plugged in the Innova scan tool, it was still telling me the P0354 (I think that was it) code. I cleared it, recylced the ignition and it kept coming up. It just didn't seem like it was a good code - I went and got my laptop and my Forscan cable and hooked it up. It came up with some other werid codes, including the U0422 which I got when I changed the speedo for my new tires. But nothing related to the coil pack. I decided to clear all the codes and then recycle everything and restarted the truck. Did that, and then reconnected Forscan - no new codes (other than the U0422). Repeated the cycling of the engine a couple of times and it still came up clear.

So, if you've bothered to read this far - wondering what others think - I'm sure Forscan was correct - the truck sounded and ran normal after I fixed the coil pack. Why did the Innova tool keep pulling that code? Anyone know?

What should have been an hour and half job max turned into about 3 1/2 hours - but now I have fresh oil, fresh plugs and freshly rotated tires.... Ready for another year of driving....

Sounds stressful. My husband said I’m changing the oil this time(he’ll walk me through it). I said my spark plugs probably should be changed out also. Think I’ll let him handle that part!

 

[RedlandRanger]

Sounds stressful. My husband said I’m changing the oil this time(he’ll walk me through it). I said my spark plugs probably should be changed out also. Think I’ll let him handle that part!

It was quite a bit harder than I expected. I've changed a lot of plugs, but this is the first time I've changed coil on plug plugs..... Or ones that are in a deep well. Fortunately, I didn't have any issues with the rusted #4 plug like some have had.

 

[Tracy Bowman]

It was quite a bit harder than I expected. I've changed a lot of plugs, but this is the first time I've changed coil on plug plugs..... Or ones that are in a deep well. Fortunately, I didn't have any issues with the rusted #4 plug like some have had.

I actually think I’ll let my son change them since we don’t have forscan & he does. Save us a trip to the dealership if something goes wrong.

I’m thankful for this forum & the sharing of information to help others.

 

[canyonslicker]

The U0422 code is related to the BCM as invalid data. Did you unplug anything else you may have forgotten about? If not then @airline tech might have some answers. He’s pretty sharp.

 

[canyonslicker]

On the bright side at least you did it and can’t blame anyone else.. I’m not sure if that’s reassuring or not. I hope you find the culprit and get it resolved quickly. Keep us posted for Tracy’s sake ?.

 

[Frenchy]

After getting things corrected and clearing codes, did you clear Kam? When an issue pops up and gets resolved you have to do that. Also it may be beneficial to do the cam crank variation learn(might be named something else)

 

[Msfitoy]

The hardest thing I found about changing Ranger's plugs is holding my self over the engine bay while wrenching the last plug...unless you're 6'6", a stool is a pain...the last plug prove to be a challenge but is manageable if you unbolt the coil then rotate the plug so it clears the plumbing then pull up...as for installing the plugs into the deep well, I use a flexible grappler tool to hold the plug end then lowering it gently into the hole...I do the same to extract them after loosening...

 

[RedlandRanger]

The U0422 code is related to the BCM as invalid data. Did you unplug anything else you may have forgotten about? If not then @airline tech might have some answers. He’s pretty sharp.

The U0422 code I wasn't worried about - that is "normal" after adjusting the speedo for larger tires.

I think all is good now, but I'm very perplexed why the Innova scan tool kept reporting the P354 code (or whatever it was).

 

[RedlandRanger]

The hardest thing I found about changing Ranger's plugs is holding my self over the engine bay while wrenching the last plug...unless you're 6'6", a stool is a pain...the last plug prove to be a challenge but is manageable if you unbolt the coil then rotate the plug so it clears the firewall then pull up...as for installing the plugs into the deep well, I use a flexible grappler tool to hold the plug end then lowering it gently into the hole...I do the same to extract them after loosening...

There was that too.... I ended up sitting on the plastic in front of the engine and bending over the engine to install them all - it wasn't terribly comfortable but it worked. And I think I did figure out what you are talking about with that last plug - after I messed it up the first time.

I think a plug socket with the rubber insert would make it easier. I have more than one for a 13/16" plug, but my 5/8" plug socket doesn't have one.

 

[canyonslicker]

The hardest thing I found about changing Ranger's plugs is holding my self over the engine bay while wrenching the last plug...unless you're 6'6", a stool is a pain...the last plug prove to be a challenge but is manageable if you unbolt the coil then rotate the plug so it clears the firewall then pull up...as for installing the plugs into the deep well, I use a flexible grappler tool to hold the plug end then lowering it gently into the hole...I do the same to extract them after loosening...

I usually stand on a 4x6x48 wood block. It doesn’t sound like much but it makes a big difference, at least for me.

 

[Msfitoy]

I usually stand on a 4x6x48 wood block. It doesn’t sound like much but it makes a big difference, at least for me.

I can't picture a 4x6x48 wood block...you cut that from a stump? And how do you use it?

 

[canyonslicker]

I can't picture a 4x6x48 wood block...you cut that from a stump? And how do you use it?

It’s basically a 4 foot length beam. I actually have 2 of them. Using one gives me a 4 inch platform to stand on that’s 4 feet wide to step sideways. If needed I can stack the second one on top for extra 4 in lift which can be a little precarious. So I drilled holes in them to bolt together and can be used as 6 inch lift/step, way more stable. I had an 8 foot beam I was trying to repurpose and it worked out well for me.

 

[canyonslicker]

There was that too.... I ended up sitting on the plastic in front of the engine and bending over the engine to install them all - it wasn't terribly comfortable but it worked. And I think I did figure out what you are talking about with that last plug - after I messed it up the first time.

I think a plug socket with the rubber insert would make it easier. I have more than one for a 13/16" plug, but my 5/8" plug socket doesn't have one.

I have a 5/8” universal plug socket with 6 in extension. It’s all one tool but the universal part is not at all wobbly as you only get about 15-20 degree deflection. It has a fairly firm angle retention so it doesn’t flop around. I don’t remember where I bought it.

 

[P. A. Schilke]

I got the "oil change is due soon" message on the dash, so I decided to do my usual oil change and tire rotation. No big deal - that was easy - then I remembered I bought new plugs a while back after all the talk of the rusted plug #1. I thought "replacing plugs should be easy, they are right on the top of the engine". Well, it didn't quite work out that way.....Plug #4 (the one in the back) is really hard to get off the coil pack due to something else being right over top of it - this is important later in the story....

First, I realized I didn't have a plug socket with the rubber insert to hold the plug. That made both removing and installing the new plugs extra hard due to the big hole they are in. I worked thru that with not too much issue. Got all the plugs replaced - It didn't take TOO long. Started up the truck and it didn't sound right - like one cylinder was out. I plugged in my Innova scan tool and sure enough, beside the flashing engine light on the dash, it told me there was a misfire on plug #4 (I had to go look up how they numbered the plugs to make sure I knew which plug it was). I remembered when I put the coil pack on it felt kind of weird. Toying with that for a bit and it went back on like I felt it should. Fire up the engine and it still seemed to be misfiring. Plug in the scan tool again and I get some other code. I'm really worried now - but I go look in the engine bay and then realize I did something stupid. When I was messing with the coil back on plug #4, I unplugged it so I could move it around better - I forgot to plug it back in. I was sure I had figured it out - I mean really, how hard can replacing spark plugs be? Anyway, started it up and it sounded normal - drove normal - no flashing engine on the dash. BUT - when I plugged in the Innova scan tool, it was still telling me the P0354 (I think that was it) code. I cleared it, recylced the ignition and it kept coming up. It just didn't seem like it was a good code - I went and got my laptop and my Forscan cable and hooked it up. It came up with some other werid codes, including the U0422 which I got when I changed the speedo for my new tires. But nothing related to the coil pack. I decided to clear all the codes and then recycle everything and restarted the truck. Did that, and then reconnected Forscan - no new codes (other than the U0422). Repeated the cycling of the engine a couple of times and it still came up clear.

So, if you've bothered to read this far - wondering what others think - I'm sure Forscan was correct - the truck sounded and ran normal after I fixed the coil pack. Why did the Innova tool keep pulling that code? Anyone know?

What should have been an hour and half job max turned into about 3 1/2 hours - but now I have fresh oil, fresh plugs and freshly rotated tires.... Ready for another year of driving....

Hi Rob,

When installing new plugs, I use a piece of fuel hose about 12 inches long...Flexible and prevents the dreaded crossthred event. I do this on easy to reach plugs as well as hard to get to spark plugs. Just slip the hose over the insulator and install until you need a tool to "snug" the plug..

Best,
Phil

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