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Need recommendations for aftermarket lighting

OFC Ranger

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My belief is for forward facing on-road application - you’ll want to avoid the cheapest stuff.
So my question is why would you think this? I promise I am not being trying to be obtuse or throw shade. As much crap as some of the gimmicky YouTube creators get (like that Donut channel) - they have shown on video, factual proof, that a $1600 light bar and a $90 light bar performance nearly identical. The more expensive one does have a bit more of a tighter throw pattern at like 600 feet or whatever it is they tested at, but again this comes back to my comment about people being high speed baja racers or Joe Blow tooting around like 99% of us.

At the end of the day if people responded to questions about their gucci lighting with, "I guess I just wanted this brand because its what I wanted" then that pretty much takes the wind out of any detractors sails. You can't argue flavor so to say. But the moment they respond with, "Cheap stuff is bad... cause reasons." That is when the eye rolls comes in.

Ok, well "why is it bad?"

*tumble weeds*

We aren't talking about mission critical stuff like an engine, suspension, tires, and so forth... its friggin lights. lol
 

Danager

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So my question is why would you think this? I promise I am not being trying to be obtuse or throw shade. As much crap as some of the gimmicky YouTube creators get (like that Donut channel) - they have shown on video, factual proof, that a $1600 light bar and a $90 light bar performance nearly identical. The more expensive one does have a bit more of a tighter throw pattern at like 600 feet or whatever it is they tested at, but again this comes back to my comment about people being high speed baja racers or Joe Blow tooting around like 99% of us.

At the end of the day if people responded to questions about their gucci lighting with, "I guess I just wanted this brand because its what I wanted" then that pretty much takes the wind out of any detractors sails. You can't argue flavor so to say. But the moment they respond with, "Cheap stuff is bad... cause reasons." That is when the eye rolls comes in.

Ok, well "why is it bad?"

*tumble weeds*

We aren't talking about mission critical stuff like an engine, suspension, tires, and so forth... its friggin lights. lol

I can only use my personal experience. For a pod-style light. Cheap lights from Pilot and a few other “no name” brand lights. Moderate lights from PIAA and KC. And I believe the DD (I have the mid-line Pro) I run now do have a good balance of useable output and low/no offends to other drivers - when positioned and aimed properly. For the build quality and performance, I was *ahem* okay with the price. For the rest of the locations, if/when I get there I am a lot less picky.
On the cheap ones I have seen how the light just scatters, little to no way to focus it or no cut off - the instructions state you can mount them in any orientation. Crappy wiring with exposed but insulated spade connectors. That same rocker switch they’ve been using since at least as far back as 1970. Plastic that fades and gets brittle, or rusting hardware.

I agree with what you are saying fundamentally. And I don’t have money to throw away. Some extra time sealing up the cheap lights goes a long way. Also worth noting that the expensive ones can and do leak. I’m not all that into replacing cheap lights every couple years.
 

OFC Ranger

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I can only use my personal experience. For a pod-style light. Cheap lights from Pilot and a few other “no name” brand lights. Moderate lights from PIAA and KC. And I believe the DD (I have the mid-line Pro) I run now do have a good balance of useable output and low/no offends to other drivers - when positioned and aimed properly. For the build quality and performance, I was *ahem* okay with the price. For the rest of the locations, if/when I get there I am a lot less picky.
On the cheap ones I have seen how the light just scatters, little to no way to focus it or no cut off - the instructions state you can mount them in any orientation. Crappy wiring with exposed but insulated spade connectors. That same rocker switch they’ve been using since at least as far back as 1970. Plastic that fades and gets brittle, or rusting hardware.

I agree with what you are saying fundamentally. And I don’t have money to throw away. Some extra time sealing up the cheap lights goes a long way. Also worth noting that the expensive ones can and do leak. I’m not all that into replacing cheap lights every couple years.

You are right about the rust, especially on brackets, it had became so common practice for me as part of "prep" on cheaper lights that I keep a spare can of herculiner around and I usually bedline a non-painted bracket. On the ones that are powder-coated I use some specality sub-label of WD-40 and coat them. Ever since I started doing that I've kept rust at bay.

As far as wiring; I've always made my own waterproof harnesses. I know high end stuff comes with its own Deutsche connectors, still doesn't justify the price to me. Surprisingly a lot of lower end lights are starting to come with this as well.

I've always considered the harness and switches that came with low end lights just throw-aways. lol

Prepping low-end lights is a bit more involved than plug and play for sure, but the skill required to learn to do it is very basic and it would do everyone good to have some basic electrical know-how.
 
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The Tremor

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Are you a night time high speed Baja racer or do you just need a little extra push quality of life lighting?

If not the first then Chicom lighting will meet 99% of your needs. Not to mention a majority of high dollar stuff is the same thing rebranded.

Even if your $50 ditch lights break after 2 years and have to buy another set you are still better off than if you bought. $300 set that lasts 5 years.

Flank lighting is flank lighting... Why people blow hundreds of dollars to what is mostly used as a form of camp or cargo lighting is beyond me.

If you want to impress your friends, post pictures on Instagram, or just have a lot of free cash to burn then get Gucci lighting.


For sake of honesty If I had excess cash I'd roll a Gucci lighting mobile.

There are some steps you can take to extend the life of chicom lights prior to installation, like adding gasket maker or sealent to any point of entry condensation may come in. Honestly a lot of different in high dollar and low dollar are these small steps tossed out. Consider cheap lighting like DIY kits.

I have chinese light bars that are are over 2 years old still as bright as day 1 and zero condensation problems.
Ok thanks but I'm lost. What is Gucci lighting mobile? Designer lights or something?
 


Wes Siler

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Couple points here:

1) lighting is absolutely mission critical. Seeing where you're going is how you drive safely at night.
2) the major determining factor between cheap and quality lights is performance, not just build quality. Especially when it comes to LEDs, where one light may have many small emitters, the design of the reflector and lens determines what light goes where. And doing this 20x is more expensive than doing it once. LEDs in general are not good at throw, so getting distance out of them is a challenge.
3) light performance is measured by the distance at which they can produce 1 lux. You may be under the mistaken impression that you don't need a light that goes a mile, but this measurement will also help you determine the performance of any other light. With figs for instance, you can determine pattern by comparing lux distance to output.
4) the premise that quality lights can only be made in America is a flawed one. Aftermarket lighting is legal in other parts of the world and regulated. Lights produces in Australia, SA, or the EU often exceed both the quality and performance of US made lights for the simple fact that they're designed for our use cases, not simply looking cool on social media. It is also possible to produce a quality product in China, given adequate quality controls and supervision.
5) because our country doesn't understand vehicle lighting, consumers here lack adequate guidance. Bolting 67 different lights all over your truck is not a functional solution.

OP: would you like some real guidance from someone with experience, or are you happy taking advice from people who lack any sort of real world experience?
 

9zero1790

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i run a mix of name brand lights and some china junks. the 5 rigid pods i have are perfect for what i needed. not too overkill or too expensive. they all have a purpose. placement of the lights might be almost as important as the brand / type of light. what i try to do is use the auxiliary lights to fill in what the headlights do not do. i park in the woods after dark and flip on the high beams and factory fogs. then one by one turn on the aux lights and aim them around where i need them based on my view from the drivers spot. its a work in progress lol. but getting close..
 

Wes Siler

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i run a mix of name brand lights and some china junks. the 5 rigid pods i have are perfect for what i needed. not too overkill or too expensive. they all have a purpose. placement of the lights might be almost as important as the brand / type of light. what i try to do is use the auxiliary lights to fill in what the headlights do not do. i park in the woods after dark and flip on the high beams and factory fogs. then one by one turn on the aux lights and aim them around where i need them based on my view from the drivers spot. its a work in progress lol. but getting close..
How much was your total spend?
 

9zero1790

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about 450 if i remember correctly. i hunted for decent prices everywhere on line. most came from ebay offers. im sure i could have gotten similar lighting for less than the rigids but i was impressed with the quality so i spent it.
 

Wes Siler

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about 450 if i remember correctly. i hunted for decent prices everywhere on line. most came from ebay offers. im sure i could have gotten similar lighting for less than the rigids but i was impressed with the quality so i spent it.
So for that same price, you could have gotten a single pair of Lightforce Strikers, with a harness and switch. That would have given you a comprehensive solution that provides both distance light out to 750 yds, and all the close up flood you need. True one pair of lights solution that'd have been easier to wire, mount, and would be significantly more effective.

At any point during your research, did you come across that suggestion?
 

9zero1790

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So for that same price, you could have gotten a single pair of Lightforce Strikers, with a harness and switch. That would have given you a comprehensive solution that provides both distance light out to 750 yds, and all the close up flood you need. True one pair of lights solution that'd have been easier to wire, mount, and would be significantly more effective.

At any point during your research, did you come across that suggestion?
actually yes. i looked at arb and lightforce online. i know they make good stuff.
 

Wes Siler

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actually yes. i looked at arb and lightforce online. i know they make good stuff.
For some perspective, that's 120yds more performance than the BD LP6 Pro Spot, with a combo beam pattern that covers every conceivable need. Why didn't you choose an effective solution like this, instead of silly little pod lights?
 

OFC Ranger

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lighting is absolutely mission critical. Seeing where you're going is how you drive safely at night.
Explain to me why cheap lighting does not assist you in "seeing where you are going so you can drive safely". This is nothing more than the parroting of most YT vids that say "cheap lighting bad mmmkay" - then absolutely fail, as in zero, to show or explain what this means.


the premise that quality lights can only be made in America is a flawed one. Aftermarket lighting is legal in other parts of the world and regulated. Lights produces in Australia, SA, or the EU often exceed both the quality and performance of US made lights for the simple fact that they're designed for our use cases, not simply looking cool on social media. It is also possible to produce a quality product in China, given adequate quality controls and supervision.
100% correct. Also most high dollar lights are in fact made in China. The American companies slap the label "assembled in America" to throw smoke and mirrors up. They know exactly what they are doing.

would you like some real guidance from someone with experience, or are you happy taking advice from people who lack any sort of real world experience?
Not sure if directed at me, but I promise you I have been doing high speed night time stuff, involving take down lights, spot lights, and epileptic inducing flashy ones bouncing off every shiny surface then you will ever come close to. All while doing so in much more dangerous locations than a dirt path where your only enemy is wild life and a pointy rock in the wrong place.
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