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Truck "bucks" at slow, steady speeds

Augie81

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When I read the thread title about truck "bucks" at slow and steady speeds I thought maybe this was some new reward program where I earn "bucks" I can spend on accessories or service for driving at slow and steady speeds. :p

Anyway I have nothing else to contribute. I hope you get it sorted out OP.
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dtech

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Well if it turns out to be the EGR - they still can be troublesome, I thought many automakers stopped using them and instead relied on vvt to intro exhaust gases. Wonder if this is still warranted for 8yrs/80k miles under federal law.
 

FunInTheSun

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regarding yours and not driving your truck alot, whats your fuel quality and quantity? just to rule out you have a bad gas situation.
I can't entirely rule out bad gas, because I bought the truck with 895 miles on it. But I have put nothing but Top-Tier 93 Octane in it ever since I bought it, with the exception of one tank of Mid-Grade
 

Danny15l

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My truck does this as well but only in my neighborhood(25mph) going up hill. I currently have a brand new loaner from FORD due to the blend door failure on my truck and it also does this same thing in same spot every time, vibrates/bucks more in the loaner IMO. I also had the TSB done on my truck at 12k miles.

My Truck:
2019 2WD XLT
21,500 miles
Stock(except the damper :like:)

Loaner Truck:
2022 4WD Lariat
120 miles
Stock
Where is the actuator located on your ranger? Behind the dash by the shifter? What symptoms did it cause?
With the blend door: I was having noise (clanking plastic noise while it opens and closes) for a bit when I ran they air really hot. Only when turning off/on.
I learned keeping it below 80F does not replicate the problem. I was reading online with the plastic door remolding as it heats up/cools down on the 2019 model. Mine is a 2020. I do have a plastic smell from my vents most of the time (especially when used hot) but I think it’s a ranger thing.
 

VegasRanger

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Following because my truck does the same damn thing. So freaking annoying.

It might be a placebo effect, but if I run the 4x4 for a few feet, then go back to 4x2, it seems to get better. I don't know whats up with that. Could just be a placebo effect like I said.
 


FunInTheSun

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Well if it turns out to be the EGR - they still can be troublesome, I thought many automakers stopped using them and instead relied on vvt to intro exhaust gases. Wonder if this is still warranted for 8yrs/80k miles under federal law.
I owned a 2002 Chrysler Sebring with the 3.7L V6 that was infamous for self-destructing due to oil sludge clogging the passages in the cam chain tensioner, causing the cam chain to go slack and jump teeth. The result was frequently bent or broken valves, and all the destruction that implies. There was a suspicion that it was related to EGR, which was never admitted by Chrysler in any public way, but when I looked over my engine, the EGR had been quietly deleted. There were blank-off plates where the components would have attached. I've had many problems over the years with various EGR valves getting stuck open, either from carbon buildup, vacuum leaks, or defective vacuum switches or diaphragms. It's a tough job, feeding exhaust gases back into the intake. The system on the Ranger involves a motorized valve, a heat exchanger and three sensors. The aggravating part is they put non-reusable clamps on the lines to the DPFE sensor. You have to cut them off. I'm still under warranty, so I'm going to let Ford deal with it sometime Real Soon Now.
 

THEMIZE

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Where is the actuator located on your ranger? Behind the dash by the shifter? What symptoms did it cause?
With the blend door: I was having noise (clanking plastic noise while it opens and closes) for a bit when I ran they air really hot. Only when turning off/on.
I learned keeping it below 80F does not replicate the problem. I was reading online with the plastic door remolding as it heats up/cools down on the 2019 model. Mine is a 2020. I do have a plastic smell from my vents most of the time (especially when used hot) but I think it’s a ranger thing.
I just called the dealer(day 6 now) still waiting on parts, should be in tomorrow but he wasn’t sure. This fix requires the whole assembly to be replaced according to FORD SSM. The plastic warps in the main assembly and causes the door actuator to break. As for location this is where it sucks as they have to pull the entire dash, steering column etc out so it’s a long job. Clicking buttons and changing temps never helped in my situation and I have never went over 73F so idk what it would do going over 80F. :oops:
 

Racket

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OP, does your truck have the engine cover? Could it have been water getting in around the spark plugs themselves?
 

Danny15l

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I just called the dealer(day 6 now) still waiting on parts, should be in tomorrow but he wasn’t sure. This fix requires the whole assembly to be replaced according to FORD SSM. The plastic warps in the main assembly and causes the door actuator to break. As for location this is where it sucks as they have to pull the entire dash, steering column etc out so it’s a long job. Clicking buttons and changing temps never helped in my situation and I have never went over 73F so idk what it would do going over 80F. :oops:
I glad they gave you a loaner in that time lost with the truck for warranty work. I took my truck in when I was having clicking noises from the center dash and they could not replicate it. It has not occurred in over 5 months now…
This is an infamous ford issue. I hate plastic hard parts.
Currently at the dealer waiting for the braking system inspection.
My dealer is pretty good about taking photos of the interior before they do anything to it like maintenance items or warranty work. I haven’t taken it anywhere else except for an independent shop to install some b5100s in the front and old man emu nitro charged shocks for the rear. 1000 miles later and no issues.
 

SilverSlugger

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It's not unheard of to have to walnut blast DI engines every 50k miles.
 

Nils

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Just had mine fixed.
My notes from multiple service events:
1) the fault may or may not throw a code.
2) There are two TSB's about this - first TSB is to reset the transmission computers. Second TSB says to replace the throttle body if the transmission reset doesn't work. My dealer did both.
3) dealer replaced the plugs and coils - because I had 80k miles on the truck and the recommended change is 90k, we did it. No change to the problem.
4) Sr Tech finally replaced the ERG valves, oxygen sensors and some of the other pollution equipment, and it finally got fixed. I'm now at 90k miles and it hasn't re-occurred.
Good luck with your problem, it IS fixable!
 

doug910

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Just had mine fixed.
My notes from multiple service events:
1) the fault may or may not throw a code.
2) There are two TSB's about this - first TSB is to reset the transmission computers. Second TSB says to replace the throttle body if the transmission reset doesn't work. My dealer did both.
3) dealer replaced the plugs and coils - because I had 80k miles on the truck and the recommended change is 90k, we did it. No change to the problem.
4) Sr Tech finally replaced the ERG valves, oxygen sensors and some of the other pollution equipment, and it finally got fixed. I'm now at 90k miles and it hasn't re-occurred.
Good luck with your problem, it IS fixable!
How much did all that run you at your dealer?
 

Deleted User 61245811

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Add more grease to the driveshaft slip joint splines, and if that doesn't help I reckon it's just the nature of the beefy straight-cut gears. The transmission is over built for the amount of HP and torque our stock motors put through it.
Not sure what "bucking" means but I had some slight jerky motion at low speed that was fixed by relubrication of the driveline splines. "Bucking" sounds a little more severe than what I was experiencing, however.
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