What speakers is everyone upgrading to?

[Langwilliams]

something like this might work for remote turn on power:

https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Add-...d=1613328001&sprefix=auto+fuse,aps,224&sr=8-1

DO NOT POWER THE AMP WITH A CONNECTION LIKE THIS

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[CashSeeAO]

If that’s true then why is it the radio only turns on when a key activates it. On its own it does nothing. Granted one of the wires is for constant power to save settings etc. So it also stands to reason another wire is for the ignition signal. That’s the one you want for your amp. As others Have said other places to grab battery power like where the inverter attaches in the console. The fuse taps works too.

My head unit turns on without inserting a key in the ignition thus a constant power source is required. Keep in mind I actually purchased and used the FOR 11CK harness so I know what it provides. The wires that were provided are the speaker wires, a black ground, and a yellow constant 12v. That is all.

 

[Trigganometry]

My head unit turns on without inserting a key in the ignition thus a constant power source is required. Keep in mind I actually purchased and used the FOR 11CK harness so I know what it provides. The wires that were provided are the speaker wires, a black ground, and a yellow constant 12v. That is all.

There are wiring diagrams posted on the forum. I’d be curious to see what we can get from them

 

[thewhiteranger]

I used fuse #28 for powering my small amp. The XLT audio system does not use power from this fuse. It has a constant 12v source. As for amp turn on, I tapped off fuse #23, which provides a 12v when the ignition switch turns to the ACC position. Good luck.

so no direct to battery connection needed? how do you tap into those fuse sources? 20 amp from fuse 28 -sorry for all the questions I see it wants 20amp fused source for the little amps main power and then a separate wire to the fuse 23? for on / off? how do you safely and neatly tap from those fuse box sources?

could you use the radio power from the harness plug as an on / off signal?

 

[Trigganometry]

so no direct to battery connection needed? how do you tap into those fuse sources? 20 amp from fuse 28 -sorry for all the questions I see it wants 20amp fused source for the little amps main power and then a separate wire to the fuse 23? for on / off? how do you safely and neatly tap from those fuse box sources?

could you use the radio power from the harness plug as an on / off signal?

Look a few posts back for the Amazon link. They’re fuse taps. So you’re piggybacking out of an existing fuse slot and adding another fused output to where you tap into. Just don’t buy the cheap ones. Because they are really are cheap! (Possibly hazardous) Orientation when inserted is important. One leg is hot the other is output after passing thru fuse

 

[CashSeeAO]

so no direct to battery connection needed? how do you tap into those fuse sources? 20 amp from fuse 28 -sorry for all the questions I see it wants 20amp fused source for the little amps main power and then a separate wire to the fuse 23? for on / off? how do you safely and neatly tap from those fuse box sources?

could you use the radio power from the harness plug as an on / off signal?

My Kicker requires only a 20A fused power source and a 14 gauge power wire so it’s safe to tap an appropriate fuse. I did not want to deal with wiring directly to the battery. Here is what I used to tap the fuse.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083R55DBT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You should not use the constant 12v from the harness to turn the amp on/off. If so, the amp would be on all the time!

 

[thewhiteranger]

My Kicker requires only a 20A fused power source and a 14 gauge power wire so it’s safe to tap an appropriate fuse. I did not want to deal with wiring directly to the battery. Here is what I used to tap the fuse.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083R55DBT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You should not use the constant 12v from the harness to turn the amp on/off. If so, the amp would be on all the time!

any issues with chimes / warning tones etc with this or does all work as normal. seems like new cars run everything through the radio now

 

[FoD]

something like this might work for remote turn on power:

https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Add-circuit-Adapter/dp/B01DYQM6EO/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1VSA9I5HPZESZ&dchild=1&keywords=auto+fuse+tap&qid=1613328001&sprefix=auto+fuse,aps,224&sr=8-1

DO NOT POWER THE AMP WITH A CONNECTION LIKE THIS

Because?

 

[CashSeeAO]

any issues with chimes / warning tones etc with this or does all work as normal. seems like new cars run everything through the radio now

The chimes were loud after I installed the amp. I used Forscan to change the sound from speakers to the instrument panel. The touch tones from the factory head unit were also loud through the speakers. I disabled the touch tones in the head unit settings. All is good now.

 

[Langwilliams]

Because?

I wouldn't put that strain on an existing circuit. I ran a wire through the firewall for my off road light an while a PIA IMO it's safer than tapping an existing fuse...I would trust that for the remote on/off but not to power the amp. When I shop for a motorcycle amp I always want one that has at least a 40 amp fuse in it...this tells you it will produce good power...you are talking about a 20 amp power source...which is ok for adding a little to the factory sound but I'm talking about adding enough to light up some serious speakers so I can hear them over my loud ass exhaust out in the wind at 75 MPH. I just play it safe so I don't spark my ranger into a problem.

It seems I'm replacing my amps every few years...riding in that vibrating enviorment semi exposed to the elements probably shortens their life...plus it's a tight area which may hold heat in...it could also be I'm taxing the amp to push the volume I want...I wouldn't push a 20 amp power supply much.

 

[FoD]

I wouldn't put that strain on an existing circuit. I ran a wire through the firewall for my off road light an while a PIA IMO it's safer than tapping an existing fuse...I would trust that for the remote on/off but not to power the amp. When I shop for a motorcycle amp I always want one that has at least a 40 amp fuse in it...this tells you it will produce good power...you are talking about a 20 amp power source...which is ok for adding a little to the factory sound but I'm talking about adding enough to light up some serious speakers so I can hear them over my loud ass exhaust out in the wind at 75 MPH. I just play it safe so I don't spark my ranger into a problem.

It seems I'm replacing my amps every few years...riding in that vibrating enviorment semi exposed to the elements probably shortens their life...plus it's a tight area which may hold heat in...it could also be I'm taxing the amp to push the volume I want...I wouldn't push a 20 amp power supply much.

I asked because I wasn't sure why you said what you did, but I'd say you could find a bunch of circuits that are UNUSED with various amp values and use the tap as long as the tap has a lesser value than the rated fuse in panel.
Fuse 37 on the in-cab fuse panel is listed as a 20A, ignition on, circuit for example and fuse 26 is a 30A circuit that could handle the 20A tap without issues. Here's a pic where I had checked with meter for power, all listed as unused. Thanks for your explanation.

 

[Langwilliams]

I asked because I wasn't sure why you said what you did, but I'd say you could find a bunch of circuits that are UNUSED with various amp values and use the tap as long as the tap has a lesser value than the rated fuse in panel.
Fuse 37 on the in-cab fuse panel is listed as a 20A, ignition on, circuit for example and fuse 26 is a 30A circuit that could handle the 20A tap without issues. Here's a pic where I had checked with meter for power, all listed as unused. Thanks for your explanation.

When you choose an amp read over their requirements for power an ground. That fuse chart shows an unused 20A switched an 30A always hot. I've been through 3 or 4 amps since I've had my 2014 Harley (I blew up the first one not knowing about the auto volume thing) an they all recommended a 40 Amp fuse on an 8 gauge wire directly off the battery. The motorcycle world is pretty much stuck with small compact high power class D amps do that's what I'm sharing my experience with. The bikes need 125 watts per channel minimum to be heard clearly over all the noise. what fits your needs might be less power hungry. Read the specs an if it's 30 amp fuse that should be fine. Looks like 10 gauge wire is the right size for 30 amp circuits.

 

[Croftman404]

Just finished this build today on my 20 XLT Supercab with Sync. One Rockford 10, four Kicker components, and two Kicker tweeters. Removed the backseats and fabricated some 1/4" steel brackets to mount the enclosure to the threaded holes where the seat belts were.

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