Whipple Innercooler deal thoughts - QUESTIONS!

[LowKeyTremor]

Hey guys,

I have several questions, but they could certainly I’ll be handled with one single answer that gives your opinion. I would appreciate it because I always love hearing different points of view!

———————————————
UPDATE: a 100% CV fabrication set up would end up costing the same as a Whipple Innercooler/CVF charge pipe combination.

Options
- Whipple with AFE charge pipes?
- Whipple with CVF charge pipes?
- Complete CVF set up?
———————————————

I hadn’t planned on purchasing quite yet, but I just stumbled across what I think is a pretty great deal. Basically half off on one of the innercoolers I’ve been looking at.

It doesn’t have an option to hot and cold chargepipes, and I had planned on getting it in a complete package (in theory because it would be the better deal, but also it just makes sense to do it all. well with a deal, it’s not cheaper for the entire kit)

Main questions ( few below pic):

• Whipple is a solid brand; would you feel comfortable going with this one?
• I was planning on just getting a whole package, which all would be the same brand. In this case, it would just be a little mixed match of some top-notch companies . Any kind of aftermarket innercooler & charge pipe combination should be compatible, correct?

I have found that a kit that includes the innercooler and the hot and cold charge pipes is generally about $1150.

Here’s what I’m looking at:

I

Here are the charge pipe options:

• AFE: it’s the more expensive one, but I’ve always really loved this AFE kit
  • $420
  • Total: $835 (b4 taxes & shipping)
  • Savings vs expected $ = $300
• CVF: is absolutely solid, and I definitely plan on their downpipe. It gives decent savings versus the AFE version.
  • $300
  • Total: $715 (b4 taxes & shipping)
  • Savings vs expected $ = $420

Looking at different brands, I have found the average kit to be over $1150 (I’ll just call it $1135) for innercooler and hot&cold charge pipes

LAST QUESTION:
Would you go with the AFE kit and Pay $120 more because you like it, or go with one that you probably would like just as much, and get those max savings?
•• is one notably better than the other?

Thanks!!!
Low Key Kyle ?

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[RangerPNW]

I have this kit from Elliot Specialized Performance. Its worked out very well for me, and its hard to complain about anything at the price, that includes charge pipes.

https://esperformance17.com/collections/ford-ranger/products/esp-intercooler-ford-ranger-2019

 

[Deleted User 38384]

Hey guys,

I have several questions, but they could certainly I’ll be handled with one single answer that gives your opinion. I would appreciate it because I always love hearing different points of view!

———————————————
UPDATE: a 100% CV fabrication set up would end up costing the same as a Whipple Innercooler/CVF charge pipe combination.

Options
- Whipple with AFE charge pipes?
- Whipple with CVF charge pipes?
- Complete CVF set up?
———————————————

I hadn’t planned on purchasing quite yet, but I just stumbled across what I think is a pretty great deal. Basically half off on one of the innercoolers I’ve been looking at.

It doesn’t have an option to hot and cold chargepipes, and I had planned on getting it in a complete package (in theory because it would be the better deal, but also it just makes sense to do it all. well with a deal, it’s not cheaper for the entire kit)

Main questions ( few below pic):

• Whipple is a solid brand; would you feel comfortable going with this one?
• I was planning on just getting a whole package, which all would be the same brand. In this case, it would just be a little mixed match of some top-notch companies . Any kind of aftermarket innercooler & charge pipe combination should be compatible, correct?

I have found that a kit that includes the innercooler and the hot and cold charge pipes is generally about $1150.

Here’s what I’m looking at:

I

Here are the charge pipe options:

• AFE: it’s the more expensive one, but I’ve always really loved this AFE kit
  • $420
  • Total: $835 (b4 taxes & shipping)
  • Savings vs expected $ = $300
• CVF: is absolutely solid, and I definitely plan on their downpipe. It gives decent savings versus the AFE version.
  • $300
  • Total: $715 (b4 taxes & shipping)
  • Savings vs expected $ = $420

Looking at different brands, I have found the average kit to be over $1150 (I’ll just call it $1135) for innercooler and hot&cold charge pipes

LAST QUESTION:
Would you go with the AFE kit and Pay $120 more because you like it, or go with one that you probably would like just as much, and get those max savings?
•• is one notably better than the other?

Thanks!!!
Low Key Kyle ?

I'm running the CVFab Intercooler & Charge Pipes. Excellent set-up. Also with the CVFab Downpipe and Roush Catback. Plus a custom tune. Runs like a raped ape on fire sprinting towards an automatic car wash !

 

[Frenchy]

If you ask me, I would use whatever is closest to the OEM. To specify if the Charge Pipe Connection for the Intercooler is the same as OEM, then I would get the parts that match. Why? Because if a part breaks then it is easy to get a replacement in both OEM and Aftermarket to replace even if it's not the same as the Aftermarket Performance Part you already have. If the connection is changed then it would be hard to find a temporary replacement in a bad situation.

 

[LowKeyTremor]

I'm running the CVFab Intercooler & Charge Pipes. Excellent set-up. Also with the CVFab Downpipe and Roush Catback. Plus a custom tune. Runs like a raped ape on fire sprinting towards an automatic car wash !

? based on your description alone, it seems to me that I will be quite happy! I had already spoken to one of the guys at CVF, and he gave me nothing but confidence (downpipe) and from what I’ve seen, the quality is quite awesome!

Besides, the CVF innercooler is basically the exact same price as the Whipple, these both seem to be made from the same materials, and have the same roughly 43% Increase in volume!

Correct me if I’m wrong, but it would be very reasonable to expect very similar gains, specifically because we have very similar mods (please correct my logic if it’s off).

Here are the similar/applicable similar mods, if I go w/ CVF:

• Borla S Type (it was tough to decide between Borla & Roush! I strongly believe you can’t go wrong with either, and can’t expect very similar qualitie; top-notch cat back sys, amazing sound & obviously wild increases in free flowing exhaust/excellent reduction in back pressure,1 and even noticeable SOTP performance increases…
• Turbosmart Atmospheric BOV, which is absolutely good for boost efficiency and eases up wear and tear on the turbo.
• I’ve got the Mishimoto CAI
• CVF Innercooler & charge pipes
• CVF downpipe
• Livernois Tunes
  • Towing
  • Economy
  • Then from mild to bat shit crazy performance tunes
  • I do think also, go ahead and include an ethanol tune, just so it’s available for when I’m ready

So based on the above, would you agree that my expectations should pretty much line up with your amazingly described experience?

My tires are almalmost ready to be replaced, so I’m going to mention the replacement as it will have an effect on performance.

• 33x12.50 R20 Grabbers, as they make the exact size needed!)
• RTX Zion glossy blk w/ Tremor red accents: 20x9 w/ 0.00mm offset (I do think there’s plenty of sidewall with 33s, otherwise I would go ahead and do 18s.)
  • I will put on larger fender flares; they will absolutely be aggressive and stick out around 2.5”, but I prefer ~1”, while giving the truck a wider body appearance. I love RTX, Roush, and potentially EGR (specifically for the front bumper piece to keep a very consistent look)
  • I don’t think it will be an issue, but if the 33’s take away from the incredible torque and acceleration I expect, specifically from hammering down from 0-45/10-60, and of course 0 to 60, then:
    • I’m prepared to go with 4.10s.
    • I’ve heard people going with even 4.56s, but that seems like an overkill

I am quite interested to see what the wheel/tire combo does. With the above mods, RWHP and RWTQ numbers should be pretty damn impressive, so it could very well be unnecessary!
• **Anyone have thoughts on that?**

I’ll need to recover on the funds side, so that will give me a few months to decide.

This is starting to get pretty exciting!

 

[LowKeyTremor]

If you ask me, I would use whatever is closest to the OEM. To specify if the Charge Pipe Connection for the Intercooler is the same as OEM, then I would get the parts that match. Why? Because if a part breaks then it is easy to get a replacement in both OEM and Aftermarket to replace even if it's not the same as the Aftermarket Performance Part you already have. If the connection is changed then it would be hard to find a temporary replacement in a bad situation.

I think you bring up a valid point! My feeling is that if I at least go consistent, such as what I mentioned above… All CVF, they should all pretty much work. I have an extra vehicle if there are any issues, and although it would kind of suck, if I really had to, I would just keep all factory parts, since I went ahead and did that with the BOV, since it’s not CARB compliant, and then went ahead and just kept the stock air box.

Now I just need to find a reasonable storage solution. Maybe one of those big black tubs with the yellow or red top from Home Depot. I already need to install a ceiling mounted garage storage set up. would fit nicely up there and be clean.

 

[LowKeyTremor]

I have this kit from Elliot Specialized Performance. Its worked out very well for me, and its hard to complain about anything at the price, that includes charge pipes.

https://esperformance17.com/collections/ford-ranger/products/esp-intercooler-ford-ranger-2019

oh man, this was tempting AF! They are sold out but the only issue is that even if they weren’t, it looks like they don’t have the 2022 downpipe. I’m really trying to go consistent… I think anyways.

I’m gonna keep this one on my radar though

Thank you for the input! Very useful because that is one hell of a bargain!

 

[Dereku]

I think you bring up a valid point! My feeling is that if I at least go consistent, such as what I mentioned above… All CVF, they should all pretty much work. I have an extra vehicle if there are any issues, and although it would kind of suck, if I really had to, I would just keep all factory parts, since I went ahead and did that with the BOV, since it’s not CARB compliant, and then went ahead and just kept the stock air box.

Now I just need to find a reasonable storage solution. Maybe one of those big black tubs with the yellow or red top from Home Depot. I already need to install a ceiling mounted garage storage set up. would fit nicely up there and be clean.

Intercooler charge pipe will never break. The boots might, and if they do aftermarket silicone boots and clamps are all over the world. The ranger only push on pipes were have will be hard to find in 5 years.

 

[Deleted User 38384]

? based on your description alone, it seems to me that I will be quite happy! I had already spoken to one of the guys at CVF, and he gave me nothing but confidence (downpipe) and from what I’ve seen, the quality is quite awesome!

Besides, the CVF innercooler is basically the exact same price as the Whipple, these both seem to be made from the same materials, and have the same roughly 43% Increase in volume!

Correct me if I’m wrong, but it would be very reasonable to expect very similar gains, specifically because we have very similar mods (please correct my logic if it’s off).

Here are the similar/applicable similar mods, if I go w/ CVF:

• Borla S Type (it was tough to decide between Borla & Roush! I strongly believe you can’t go wrong with either, and can’t expect very similar qualitie; top-notch cat back sys, amazing sound & obviously wild increases in free flowing exhaust/excellent reduction in back pressure,1 and even noticeable SOTP performance increases…
• Turbosmart Atmospheric BOV, which is absolutely good for boost efficiency and eases up wear and tear on the turbo.
• I’ve got the Mishimoto CAI
• CVF Innercooler & charge pipes
• CVF downpipe
• Livernois Tunes
  • Towing
  • Economy
  • Then from mild to bat shit crazy performance tunes
  • I do think also, go ahead and include an ethanol tune, just so it’s available for when I’m ready

So based on the above, would you agree that my expectations should pretty much line up with your amazingly described experience?

My tires are almalmost ready to be replaced, so I’m going to mention the replacement as it will have an effect on performance.

• 33x12.50 R20 Grabbers, as they make the exact size needed!)
• RTX Zion glossy blk w/ Tremor red accents: 20x9 w/ 0.00mm offset (I do think there’s plenty of sidewall with 33s, otherwise I would go ahead and do 18s.)
  • I will put on larger fender flares; they will absolutely be aggressive and stick out around 2.5”, but I prefer ~1”, while giving the truck a wider body appearance. I love RTX, Roush, and potentially EGR (specifically for the front bumper piece to keep a very consistent look)
  • I don’t think it will be an issue, but if the 33’s take away from the incredible torque and acceleration I expect, specifically from hammering down from 0-45/10-60, and of course 0 to 60, then:
    • I’m prepared to go with 4.10s.
    • I’ve heard people going with even 4.56s, but that seems like an overkill

I am quite interested to see what the wheel/tire combo does. With the above mods, RWHP and RWTQ numbers should be pretty damn impressive, so it could very well be unnecessary!
• **Anyone have thoughts on that?**

I’ll need to recover on the funds side, so that will give me a few months to decide.

This is starting to get pretty exciting!

Your Hp prescription is right on. Do the intake & exhaust & tune and you'll have enough power to move 33" tires. I doubt you would need to change gears unless you plan on racing. I'll be paying attention to wheel & tire "weight" on my next set.

 

[LowKeyTremor]

Your Hp prescription is right on. Do the intake & exhaust & tune and you'll have enough power to move 33" tires. I doubt you would need to change gears unless you plan on racing. I'll be paying attention to wheel & tire "weight" on my next set.

That’s sort of what I figured! And yeah, I probably should be paying attention to the weights right now, but I’m just so damn set on this particular style. I feel like with the tremor glossy black and the tone of the red which is glossy of course, these are pretty cool match

But maybe I can see if there’s something similar that maybe weighs a little less. You know I think the power won’t be an issue, as it sounds like with ethanol, you might even keep up with a stock GT or SS Camaro, and you never know what they’re gonna do if they’re trying to drop the clutch and can’t keep traction. I’m trying not to race… I just have a hard time backing down.

*** I will not do it when there are intersections or anybody around! Of course that doesn’t make it OK but I try to mitigate risk***

On our trucks, for MPG purposes, does the heavier wheel make a big difference (when pushing over 350 RWHP and over 400 RWTQ?). Are we talking a notable amount if I can find a light versus something heavier?

By a lighter wheel, does that mean probably 17 inch?

I’m just trying not to demolish the MPG gains that should theoretically come from the super efficient set up (the wheels and tires).

If you or anybody have any comments, I appreciate it! Thanks in advance!

 

[LowKeyTremor]

Intercooler charge pipe will never break. The boots might, and if they do aftermarket silicone boots and clamps are all over the world. The ranger only push on pipes were have will be hard to find in 5 years.

so the silicone boots and clamps, are you saying that they will definitely be able to be found because they are made all over the world or it will be hard to find for that exact reason?

Just wanna make sure I understood that part. Thanks Derek!

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