Wheel spacers

[Trucky McTruckFace]

Not to hijack the thread, but looks like my build is going to look about the same. 2.5” BDS level and have been debating some FactionFab spacers, been back and forth between 1” or 1.5”. Been debating between tires too, Terra Grappler G2’s or Toyo OC AT3’s the same size as yours...

I'm in the same boat, going back and forth on the 1" or 1.5", so I settled on the 1.25" Bora spacers at Stage3, going to have them installed in the next few weeks.

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[Dick Richie]

Not to hijack the thread, but looks like my build is going to look about the same. 2.5” BDS level and have been debating some FactionFab spacers, been back and forth between 1” or 1.5”. Been debating between tires too, Terra Grappler G2’s or Toyo OC AT3’s the same size as yours...

I get a slight rub in reverse at full turn lockout. I'm fine with it. I like the slight protrusion from the wheel well. I have yet to see another Ranger in N. Houston with a similar setup.

 

[Sigtau125]

I run stock tires, and after my leveling kit, I was looking for a wider stance. I went with 1.25" Bora from Stage 3. Hub centric as well. The handling is better as well.

I also went with 1.25 spacers. They won’t be here for a while. Could you post a pick so I can see how far out the tire are?

 

[Sigtau125]

I also went with 1.25 spacers. They won’t be here for a while. Could you post a pick so I can see how far out the tire are?

Never mind. I saw the pics. Thanks

 

[puckdodger]

Thinking of adding 1.25 or 1.5 inch spacers, they really enhance the look. Is there any downside to them? Like extra dirt and road grime being splattered on the paint, or stone chips?

 

[P. A. Schilke]

Thinking of adding 1.25 or 1.5 inch spacers, they really enhance the look. Is there any downside to them? Like extra dirt and road grime being splattered on the paint, or stone chips?

Hi Jim,

Short answer....extra joint between the wheel and the rotor hub...higher risk of wheel loosening and a change in scrub radius changes loading on the wheel and suspension. Many folks run spacers but I am not a fan of them in the least.

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

Thinking of adding 1.25 or 1.5 inch spacers, they really enhance the look. Is there any downside to them? Like extra dirt and road grime being splattered on the paint, or stone chips?

So, +1 on everything Phil said.

Adding spacers is like moving to a lower offset wheel. Stock offset is +55mm. Adding a 1.5 inch spacer is like moving to a +17mm offset wheel, which sticks the tires out and allows for wider tires to clear the knuckle - it’s a lot of “poke” but you might push your tires out to the point where they hit the crash bars at full lock. Here’s what I mean......

The lines in the image below represent the crash bars - the shaded tires on the right are in the pushed out position.

You want to avoid that.

 

[onobeka]

Phil, I certainly agree with the fact that an extra element is in place, which brings another set of worries, like any extra part in an already complex system. Also there is extra torque due to the increased leverage.

Regarding the wheel becoming loose, that I believe it can be the case with or without the spacer. Let's not forget that the disk brake is also an extra "shim" between the hub and the wheel, and a tremendous vibration source, which could loosen the wheel nuts. A hub centric spacer, with a new set of bolts, is mated to the hub with locking paste on the OEM bolts. The chance of the spacer itself becoming loose is less, I would say, than the wheel in the OEM spec. What remains is the chance of the wheel becoming loose on the spacer bolts, which is equally (almost, let's not forget the extra leverage, yet minimal) possible as the OEM config. Any wheel needs retorquing and regular check. I do not see how a 1" aluminum billet with proper grade bolts would be more dangerous than the rim mounting itself, except if it's made of non compliant materials and the spacer would sheer apart - which a rim could easily do as well.

Furthermore, the wheel does not simply fly away without a warning. So, with proper maintenance, decent quality products and keeping things in reasonable limits, everything should be fine.

Last and not least, we could talk FOMOCO (and OEM suppliers) quality of the hubs. On the passenger side, mine was wobbling, no spacer, OEM RIM. No noise, just terrible grinding noise while breaking. I took off the spacer and measured the trueness of the hub, 0.9mm of wobble. They've replaced the hub and bearing on warranty, and this was after 17kkm.

 

[puckdodger]

Thanks guys, you've given me a few things to think about before I make a decision.

 

[P. A. Schilke]

Phil, I certainly agree with the fact that an extra element is in place, which brings another set of worries, like any extra part in an already complex system. Also there is extra torque due to the increased leverage.

Regarding the wheel becoming loose, that I believe it can be the case with or without the spacer. Let's not forget that the disk brake is also an extra "shim" between the hub and the wheel, and a tremendous vibration source, which could loosen the wheel nuts. A hub centric spacer, with a new set of bolts, is mated to the hub with locking paste on the OEM bolts. The chance of the spacer itself becoming loose is less, I would say, than the wheel in the OEM spec. What remains is the chance of the wheel becoming loose on the spacer bolts, which is equally (almost, let's not forget the extra leverage, yet minimal) possible as the OEM config. Any wheel needs retorquing and regular check. I do not see how a 1" aluminum billet with proper grade bolts would be more dangerous than the rim mounting itself, except if it's made of non compliant materials and the spacer would sheer apart - which a rim could easily do as well.

Furthermore, the wheel does not simply fly away without a warning. So, with proper maintenance, decent quality products and keeping things in reasonable limits, everything should be fine.

Last and not least, we could talk FOMOCO (and OEM suppliers) quality of the hubs. On the passenger side, mine was wobbling, no spacer, OEM RIM. No noise, just terrible grinding noise while breaking. I took off the spacer and measured the trueness of the hub, 0.9mm of wobble. They've replaced the hub and bearing on warranty, and this was after 17kkm.

Hi Ono,

Having been through several wheel loosening "nighmares"....one of which I posted here on these forums, I stand by my opinion. You can rationalize anything you wish. Want to run wheel spacers .... Fine...you pay your $ and you face your consequences.

 

[onobeka]

I will try to search for your experience on the forum. I also had such bad experiences, not with the Ranger and not with spacers, rather OEM after tyre swap. Probably the workshop torque wrench not set properly or not even torqued. Both happened in the first 50 miles, so before I would recheck . Luckily nothing bad happened just the dreaded noise of a loose wheel.

 

[Jms81661]

Hi Ono,

Having been through several wheel loosening "nighmares"....one of which I posted here on these forums, I stand by my opinion. You can rationalize anything you wish. Want to run wheel spacers .... Fine...you pay your $ and you face your consequences.

Sounds like an "installer" issue, not a spacer issue

 

[Jms81661]

I'm in the same boat, going back and forth on the 1" or 1.5", so I settled on the 1.25" Bora spacers at Stage3, going to have them installed in the next few weeks.

How long did it take you to get them? It's been two weeks and they still haven't shipped!
(I'm going with 1")

 

[onobeka]

Maybe a fun fact, European Rangers do not have crash bars, neither in front, nor in the back of the front wheels. The front bumper is made of plastic, there is a crashbar behind it but it does not extend to cover the wheel, just a little bit more than the frame on which is mounted.

Behind the bumper there is an expanded foam between the plastic and the crashbar. It’s for pedestrian protection.

 

[AdamHarris]

Anybody tried the Spidertrax 1.23 spacers on Amazon? Actually listed to fit Fourrunners but they are hub centric and 6x6.5 pattern so should work just fine on the Ranger.

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