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DukeCanBuildit

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Hey Jack,

I’ve used one of those kits to compress a strut to replace the top mount, which is a very simple and quick task. To swap everything in and out like you’re doing, it’s going to be a long, slow process. Just to avoid the time suck, I’d have a shop do it.

However, you seem very determined, so just make sure to approach each spring like you would all your other projects - plan it out, have everything you need close by, go over all the steps in your head, then proceed. You’re an OCD LEO, so all that should be reflex for you. ?

I saw this guy, Richard, on YouTube, using an air ratchet to do this because it was quicker - it’s not a race, so don’t be a Dick.
 

DukeCanBuildit

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Okay,

A spring back story.... Good Friend and neighbor had a 1953 Corvette. Spring on the right failed. Wary of springs stored energy...I approached the removal via the LCA removal....This broken spring shot out from under the vehicle...richocheded off the workbench and out into the driveway... Reality check...even a "dead" spring had energy to take off a person's head....

Best,
Phil
Scary for sure Phil - I watched a mechanic replacing a new spring in an old car - I missed the removal, but watched part of the install as he positioned it, then started to lift the LCA with the arm of the hoist to compress it - that was enough for me - I got out of the shop at that point.
 


Dgc333

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If I had to do it again, I'd find a shop to mount the springs...those tools are pretty sketchy and are widow makers for a good reason...shops have special compression tools that can do it fast/safe and without marring up your tubes... ?
The first time I did struts this type of tool was the only one available. I have probably done at least 50 struts with the tool I bought in the early 80s or similar ones in the garages I have worked in over the years.

The tool the OP purchased has a retaining pin, as long as it is installed properly it can't come off. As long as you respect the potential energy in the spring using one of these tools is as good as anything. Even the machines you see in garages these days still have the potential to launch a spring if they are not used properly.

Respect the spring, follow the instructions and go slow you will be fine.
 
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OFC Ranger

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Anyone hear from Jack?
Perhaps he's in emergency getting a spring removed from ???
I just woke up. You'll have to give me some time to get going before you get to enjoy any possible carnage.
 

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I just woke up. You'll have to give me some time to get going before you get to enjoy any possible carnage.
Jack, before you start, please reach out.

1641585919782.webp
 

DukeCanBuildit

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OFC Ranger

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Well I got the rear shocks on and the 1" rear blocks.

I installed the blocks the opposite ways of most videos online (raise truck, drop the diff and axles). I took the u bolts / brackets off while it was on the ground, then used a floor jack (with a stack of 4x6 wood on top)on the the rear hitch to raise the frame up to slip them in under the leafs.

Took it for a test ride. Much better, no more Cadillac boat ass. As far as visually, its subtle, but I can see the difference.

test.jpg


The front shocks & springs once installed will take me from a 2" to a 3".
 

Ronbo

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Well I got the rear shocks on and the 1" rear blocks.

I installed the blocks the opposite ways of most videos online (raise truck, drop the diff and axles). I took the u bolts / brackets off while it was on the ground, then used a floor jack (with a stack of 4x6 wood on top)on the the rear hitch to raise the frame up to slip them in under the leafs.

Took it for a test ride. Much better, no more Cadillac boat ass. As far as visually, its subtle, but I can see the difference.

test.jpg


The front shocks & springs once installed will take me from a 2" to a 3".
I heard you made out better than expected.
1641660725018.webp
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