Thank you for your response, once again Ford is just confused with no definitive answers...My trailer thinks it works, I didn't do anything but hook up the brake controller, thats it.
Does your trailer battery charge line work?Does your trailer battery charge line work?
Did it work when delivered , as delivered?
Did you have to add parts or fuses?
If so what and where?
Thank you SO much! Your reply has special significance since you and I both have XL series trucks with Tow packages.Does your trailer battery charge line work?
YES
Did it work when delivered , as delivered?
Not sure. It DOES work after I installed the trailer brake controller.
Did you have to add parts or fuses?
NO
If so what and where?
I never checked it before I installed the brake controller.
It is either the 30 or 40 Amp fuse. I kind of thought it was the 40. (NOT going to test it with a 35 Amp load LOL)My guess is that fuse 73 handles the trailer 12v connector pin and charging.
Thank you for the information.Well my charge line works!
It has worked as designed since built.
It is not normal!
What is normal is that I had to figure it out for myself.
As we know, the Truck has an AGM battery and the charge system is designed for optimal care for that battery.
As it turns out, the charge line for the trailer is a part of a "TRM" Trailer Module which controls all 7 functions of the RV plug through the Module Communications Network... ostensibly via the ECM.
The truck will only recognize the trailer battery when several conditions are met, otherwise it will not submit power to the charge line.
1]The trailer battery must be low.
2] The trailer must be connected and recognized.
3] The engine must be running AND the brake engaged to initiate recognition.
4] You will not see a "normal" Voltage above 13V as in the past.
5] The TRM acts more like a smart charger than a conventional charger and shuts off when 12.7 or 12.8 is achieved.
As a result an ordinary pin test will only yield 0V.
With only one small clue as an exception, all this was determined through personal experimentation and perseverance.
I still expect that full support from local Ford techs will be forthcoming as they come up to speed on the Ranger.
Corporate is apparently no longer of any value to a Ford owner with a question or a problem.
Hopefully Ford will improve once again when they replace some of their present leadership.
The good news is that it appears now would be a good time to switch to an AGM RV battery if you primarily charge while towing.
You might still need to upgrade your onboard converter... "If equipped"... As Ford is want to say!![]()
Also, I WAS planning to get AGM batteries for my trailer. SO that all works out well.Well my charge line works!
It has worked as designed since built.
It is not normal!
What is normal is that I had to figure it out for myself.
As we know, the Truck has an AGM battery and the charge system is designed for optimal care for that battery.
As it turns out, the charge line for the trailer is a part of a "TRM" Trailer Module which controls all 7 functions of the RV plug through the Module Communications Network... ostensibly via the ECM.
The truck will only recognize the trailer battery when several conditions are met, otherwise it will not submit power to the charge line.
1]The trailer battery must be low.
2] The trailer must be connected and recognized.
3] The engine must be running AND the brake engaged to initiate recognition.
4] You will not see a "normal" Voltage above 13V as in the past.
5] The TRM acts more like a smart charger than a conventional charger and shuts off when 12.7 or 12.8 is achieved.
As a result an ordinary pin test will only yield 0V.
With only one small clue as an exception, all this was determined through personal experimentation and perseverance.
I still expect that full support from local Ford techs will be forthcoming as they come up to speed on the Ranger.
Corporate is apparently no longer of any value to a Ford owner with a question or a problem.
Hopefully Ford will improve once again when they replace some of their present leadership.
The good news is that it appears now would be a good time to switch to an AGM RV battery if you primarily charge while towing.
You might still need to upgrade your onboard converter... "If equipped"... As Ford is want to say!![]()
The only 7 blade RV plug tester I have tests for four plug functions only.Thank you for the information.
When I plug-in my 7-pin tester it shows that it is getting voltage. So,I guess the Ranger sees the tester as a valid trailer and provides the voltage.
Well my charge line works!
It has worked as designed since built.
It is not normal!
What is normal is that I had to figure it out for myself.
As we know, the Truck has an AGM battery and the charge system is designed for optimal care for that battery.
As it turns out, the charge line for the trailer is a part of a "TRM" Trailer Module which controls all 7 functions of the RV plug through the Module Communications Network... ostensibly via the ECM.
The truck will only recognize the trailer battery when several conditions are met, otherwise it will not submit power to the charge line.
1]The trailer battery must be low.
2] The trailer must be connected and recognized.
3] The engine must be running AND the brake engaged to initiate recognition.
4] You will not see a "normal" Voltage above 13V as in the past.
5] The TRM acts more like a smart charger than a conventional charger and shuts off when 12.7 or 12.8 is achieved.
As a result an ordinary pin test will only yield 0V.
With only one small clue as an exception, all this was determined through personal experimentation and perseverance.
I still expect that full support from local Ford techs will be forthcoming as they come up to speed on the Ranger.
Corporate is apparently no longer of any value to a Ford owner with a question or a problem.
Hopefully Ford will improve once again when they replace some of their present leadership.
The good news is that it appears now would be a good time to switch to an AGM RV battery if you primarily charge while towing.
You might still need to upgrade your onboard converter... "If equipped"... As Ford is want to say!![]()
That may work, I only have a house battery in an RV trailer.This is similar to what I saw when I experimented. Though some claim the 12v is present without the engine running which I did not experience.
The 12v can also be used for things like trailer interior lights. I need to check my horse trailer and see if its light turn on with the ranger connected. They do with an older F250.

....THANX