Adding a battery to battery charger

[brroberts]

Has anyone added one for towing, and if so, did you just wire it directly to the battery or connect elsewhere? I am considering a Renogy 20amp model.

https://www.renogy.com/12v-dc-to-dc...MI-6_s0_yf8wIV5mpvBB0w5wceEAQYBSABEgJuZvD_BwE

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[JesseS]

I installed the RVI DC>DC tow charger, while having a max charge rate of 10 amps, that is more than enough to make up for parasitic draw plus. I have it wired via the 7-pin connector for the RV and it seems to do a great job.
RVI Towed Charger+

 

[brroberts]

Did you wire the input directly to the Ranger battery?

I specifically want 20 amps for my planned needs and the truck and trailer wiring won’t do that, and if it did, there would still be too much voltage drop for me.

I’m glad the 10 amp charger works for your needs, but I wonder, given the Ranger’s “smart” charging algorithms where I should tap power?

And thanks for the very quick reply!

 

[JesseS]

Did you wire the input directly to the Ranger battery?

I specifically want 20 amps for my planned needs and the truck and trailer wiring won’t do that, and if it did, there would still be too much voltage drop for me.

I’m glad the 10 amp charger works for your needs, but I wonder, given the Ranger’s “smart” charging algorithms where I should tap power?

And thanks for the very quick reply!

You would run the hot directly to the battery but the neg would go to ground and not the battery. The Ranger only has a small power draw while in 'tow' mode so 10 amps is more than enough. Now if you're towing a trailer with say a fridge and other devices that need power then yes a 20 amp would be advantageous. But that large of a charger would put a not insignificant load on your rangers charging system. Any external connections to the Ranger's charging system needs to be grounded to the frame and not the battery neg post to allow the BMS to 'see' it and compensate the charge rate for the added draw.

 

[JesseS]

I see where when towing a trailer with house batteries this unit will pull as much as 30 amps from your alternator, you might want to check with Ford on the total running capacity of the Ranger's alternator as I don't think its a very large amount.

 

[brroberts]

Thanks. There is a ground stud close to the battery on my Ranger that is an easy connection spot.

My fridge pulls 22amps on dc. Yes it will pull juice, but not having enough current taxes the alternator trying to push it throug undersized wiring also. I’ve toasted a couple over the last 20 years that way. I also have a solar panel on the roof when it’s sunny, but that’s not enough by itself. I think my Ranger has a 195 amp alternator.

Once again, thanks.

 

[JesseS]

WOW, 22 amps is a lot, must be the heating element drawing that if its a absorption type fridge, or is your TT large enough to sport a residential inverter fridge? One reason I like propane, fridge pulls 1 amp or 1.5 with the fan on, and doesn't use enough propane to notice. The new 12V compressor fridges only draw 6-7 amps max when running, I want one but $1400 is a stretch when my gas one works fine.

 

[brroberts]

If needed, the Renology can be limited from 20 amps to 10, but that won’t keep the battery charged. Also, it shouldn’t pull that much unless I let the battery get low to begin with. It also does not run full draw full time, but in hot weather will pull much of that, much of the time. I realize it’s a load, but without it there are still electrical issues. I’m just trying to minimize the issues.

 

[JesseS]

In your case I would run a 10 Gauge from the Ranger Battery directly to the DC>DC charger and a frame to frame ground via a dedicated plug between vehicles to power your TT.

 

[brroberts]

Yes it’s the heating element. I don’t want a compressor fridge for various reasons, and I don’t like to drive on propane. So for about 6 hours 3 or 4 days a week, the fridge is on 12v while traveling.

 

[mtbikernate]

I'd be more apt to beef up the solar on the roof of the camper.

But then again, I've got a compressor fridge with a pretty low power draw. maybe an appliance upgrade would be worth the reduced power draw to maybe even give your existing solar arrangement a chance?

 

[brroberts]

Solar is not enough. It’s a small trailer so one 200 watt panel on the back is it. I’ll run 6 or 8 gauge minimum. I really don’t want a compressor fridge. I can boondock a long time on propane.

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