Topper EZ Lifter install question

[jblc]

I ordered the Topper EZ Lift system for a 2021 XLT.

I just tried installing it, but unfortunately the 2019+ Ranger's bed rail system seems incompatible:
it has 2x very short (<1/2") parallel vertical surfaces, which would just get crushed sideways if trying to install the TopperLift clamp.

Unfortunately the TopperLift folks have been unresponsive for months, so I'm hoping others might have ideas.

1) Usually beds (such as my 1997 Ranger) have a nice tall single steel rim.

An example of the clamp on a nice and normal bed rim is the video frame at this time stamp:





Here's their installation example of tightening these clamps to a normal bed rail:





2) And here's how my Snugtop Rebel + tiny Ranger rails look.

Ignore the second problem...that Snugtop is ALSO incompatible with this system due to its very-deep wrap-around lip, so the clamp can't reach the bed.


Assuming the snugtop were another canopy, can anyone see a way to install the clamps to the stock Ranger rails?

At this point, it seems that I'd need to fabricate / order a custom connector plate, but I don't even see a good way to connect to the Ranger without modifications that I can't undo (eg drill through the upper bed rail surface)

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[Justin87]

I just went out and looked at my ranger, my retrax cover is held on by clamps that tighten to the inside lip of the bedrail. There's enough lip there to use those clamps, all other accessories that attach to our beds that use a type of clamp like that sufficiently attach to the small lip. As far as the topper lip, just notch the topper lip for the clamp to reach the bedrail. That's just what comes to my mind right away. If you get it on and working, let me know how you like it. I was curious and interested in that setup instead of a roof top tent.

 

[NeptuneRanger]

My Leer is attached with special clamps on fiberglass ears, not sure how the Snugtop lays on top. There is also very fragile overlay inside and out. I would fear lowering even a tad off center would break off a delicate piece of the shell or scratch the paint of the truck. Just curious what is the real world application of the lift ?

 

[jblc]

retrax cover is held on by clamps that tighten to the inside lip of the bedrail.

Is that a clamp that pulls from above? If so, then I can imagine it would be fine -- since it's pulling up into the corner of the small lip, against the top of the bed rail. So, the clamp would be prevented from sliding downwards.

The TopperLift system, though, is supposed to squeeze directly onto the side, and resist sideways motion. There's nothing to prevent it from sliding downwards, especially as the squeezing clamp would deform the parallel sides || into a V.

It seems like the clamp would squirt off the bottom...

 

[jblc]

My Leer is attached with special clamps on fiberglass ears, not sure how the Snugtop lays on top.

Yeah, same on the snugtop: it has 3x ears on each side, with small v-shaped piece pulling upwards as it straddles the 2x parallel bed rails. It's not a normal U-clamp like on your Leer, or any other canopy i've had before!

Unfortunately, the force from even those v-shaped canopy attachments is enough to deform the two parallel Ranger bed rails from || into a V.

Just curious what is the real world application of the lift ?

It can open up the bed so that taller items can fit in, if needed. Also, there are tents that can expand with it both upwards and outwards with an open tailgate, to make a larger sleeping / living space...while folding back down to stock when not in use.

 

[Justin87]

Is that a clamp that pulls from above? If so, then I can imagine it would be fine -- since it's pulling up into the corner of the small lip, against the top of the bed rail. So, the clamp would be prevented from sliding downwards.

The TopperLift system, though, is supposed to squeeze directly onto the side, and resist sideways motion. There's nothing to prevent it from sliding downwards, especially as the squeezing clamp would deform the parallel sides || into a V.

It seems like the clamp would squirt off the bottom...

I'm sorry if I'm misunderstanding you, but the clamps are supposed to clamp onto the bedrail lip and stay in place regardless of which way force is being put on them. If your clamp is relying on the underside of the bedrail and upward force to keep it in position, than the clamp isn't doing its job properly. The 2 pieces you are talking about that would make a v, the bedrail lip and plastic bedrail cover? The flat part of your clamp would sit flat and flush against the plastic bedrail cover lip and the L part of your clamp would pinch the metal part of the bedrail lip regardless if the lip is slightly shorter than other trucks. Two clamps on each actuater should bed sufficient to prevent side to side motion, and I don't know how your going to be using it, but when the topper is in the down position sitting on the bed those actuators aren't going to see any side to side force. If I'm seeing this correctly, when your parked and lift your topper up there still won't be a ton of side to side force because the vehicle isn't in motion. Unless you plan on driving with it in the up position. Just my two cents, I have never claimed to know everything, I learn new things everyday, especially in the ever changing automotive industry, but I have been a collision tech for almost 20 years.

 

[jblc]

Thanks; yeah I do see what you're referring to.

One additional piece of info, which can be seen in the videos: the clamps that connect to the vertical shaft of the actuator, are not locked: they can slide freely up and down.


So if the actuator clamps squeezes the 2x vertical posts into a "V", then this part will just slide off the bottom, since friction isn't high enough at that angle (with a high squeezing force) to keep the clamp in place.

I am considering something to keep the clamp from sliding down the shaft with something that puts equal pressure around the cylinder and not crush it, eg a pipe clamp. I'm not sure this will work, though, since the actuator and clamp can still slip and slide off along the rail direction even then (so the canopy could pivot and fall over not sideways, but fwd/backwards.)

That might require another method to prevent that direction of motion, since that would also need a way to adhere to the very short protruding 2x bed rails.

 

[NeptuneRanger]

Thanks; yeah I do see what you're referring to.

One additional piece of info, which can be seen in the videos: the clamps that connect to the vertical shaft of the actuator, are not locked: they can slide freely up and down.


So if the actuator clamps squeezes the 2x vertical posts into a "V", then this part will just slide off the bottom, since friction isn't high enough at that angle (with a high squeezing force) to keep the clamp in place.

I am considering something to keep the clamp from sliding down the shaft with something that puts equal pressure around the cylinder and not crush it, eg a pipe clamp. I'm not sure this will work, though, since the actuator and clamp can still slip and slide off along the rail direction even then (so the canopy could pivot and fall over not sideways, but fwd/backwards.)

That might require another method to prevent that direction of motion, since that would also need a way to adhere to the very short protruding 2x bed rails.

Just looking at this from 30,000 feet objectively. You paid good money for the topper lift kit. Say 1 to 2k, you also spent that much or more on the shell. So now, because of the vendors lack of response you are going to napkin a solution hoping it won’t go sideways (literally) or front to back and damage the fragile overhang of the fiberglass shell. The napkin solution thus takes the vendor off the hook if their poorly designed product damages your shell, because you modified it. If it were me, I would send it back and ask for a refund.

In a nutshell their product out of the box as delivered is not compatible with the shell or the Ranger so you did not receive what you expected. Save your shell and your sanity. Just my two cents.

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