Starting to nickel and dime me a little....

[Gerder]

I vote for scam. I changed the acc belt on my wife's car & had to bring it in for something & they told me my acc belt had to be changed, this was about 2 weeks after I changed it.

Yeah, thats the invisible hand of the market pal.

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[Canadian Ranger]

Thanks Chris. The truck is still in the shop, and I'm going to ask to see the parts.

I was hoping I got one of those vehicles that goes 250k without an issue. Oh well. Still fun to drive, so I got that going for me.

That's a good rule of thumb for anyone......ask for the old parts. Take them home with you and keep them.

 

[Mustang2Ranger]

+1 for scam

 

[Ranger Danger]

Sounds Scam'y to me, I've never had rear brakes not last 100k on anything I have owned.

I saw you had posted elsewhere about Ranger rear brake issues, I'm in the same boat...truck as you.

I'm at 30,900 to be exact with my 2019. I went into the dealer for an oil change and they told me the rear brakes are down to 1MM on the inside pads... I asked them since when do rear pads wear faster than the front? Front were in great shape I was told and that it's common now for rear brakes to burn out quicker and they don't know why..I smell BS. I can vouch my E-Brake was not on or at issue, though I did notice a drop in MPG after placing new tires on, they are Mickey Thompson Baja Legend EXP LT rated and exact same size as OEM.. I would say about 2 weeks or a month later I went from 24MPG to 20MPG all the time, that has been the case since October 2022. I'm now on the hunt before getting my pads replaced on what is going on.

 

[MountainGoat]

I saw you had posted elsewhere about Ranger rear brake issues, I'm in the same boat...truck as you.

I'm at 30,900 to be exact with my 2019. I went into the dealer for an oil change and they told me the rear brakes are down to 1MM on the inside pads... I asked them since when do rear pads wear faster than the front? Front were in great shape I was told and that it's common now for rear brakes to burn out quicker and they don't know why..I smell BS. I can vouch my E-Brake was not on or at issue, though I did notice a drop in MPG after placing new tires on, they are Mickey Thompson Baja Legend EXP LT rated and exact same size as OEM.. I would say about 2 weeks or a month later I went from 24MPG to 20MPG all the time, that has been the case since October 2022. I'm now on the hunt before getting my pads replaced on what is going on.

There have been some posts on here alluding to the traction control wearing down the rear brakes. I do the long press to turn off traction and advancetrac though it is a pita to do every time I drive the truck. I do notice a difference on fire roads/gravel roads; with it off the rear bounces more. So with it on it may be dragging the rear brakes to smooth out the ride and this without lighting up the traction warning lights on the dash, killing the rear brakes over time.

Although if a dealer tells me my brakes are metal to metal I'm going to look myself and probably change them myself if need be too. As long as it doesn't need some special tool.

 

[Ranger Danger]

There have been some posts on here alluding to the traction control wearing down the rear brakes. I do the long press to turn off traction and advancetrac though it is a pita to do every time I drive the truck. I do notice a difference on fire roads/gravel roads; with it off the rear bounces more. So with it on it may be dragging the rear brakes to smooth out the ride and this without lighting up the traction warning lights on the dash, killing the rear brakes over time.

Although if a dealer tells me my brakes are metal to metal I'm going to look myself and probably change them myself if need be too. As long as it doesn't need some special tool.

I'm still looking around as I would like to better understand why we are burning through rear brake pads, otherwise the Ford Ranger has been trouble free since 9/2019. Would like to get to the bottom of the issue.

 

[Radioman]

Although if a dealer tells me my brakes are metal to metal I'm going to look myself and probably change them myself if need be too. As long as it doesn't need some special tool.

Surprise:

Ranger rear brake pad replacement info
For anyone attempting to service their rear brakes on the Ranger you will need a caliper wind back piston retractor tool that has both a right- and left-hand thread. The drivers side piston must be turned in counterclockwise and the passenger’s side is clockwise. Make sure to use the alignment mark on the caliper body to index the slots in the piston so that the pin on the back of the inner side pad fits into the piston. Torque slider pin bolts to 22 ft/lbs.

 

[TJC]

Ditto on the driveshaft possibly being 180 out, as far as the rear brakes, Rear's should last over double the fronts and 40k is way too soon for rears.
It is possible that the Park Brake hung up and wore them quicker, I don't use park break every time, but it is a good idea to actuate it every so often to prevent it. I trained myself at least once a week to actuate it. if I am parking on any kind of incline, I always use it.

My 2003 Maxima ate through the original rear brake pads in 30K miles (I never used the emergency brakes either), but the replacement pads lasted for 17 years!

When I started to hear the chirp of the wear indicator, I immediately checked the front pads and they were still looking like new! Then found the rear ones worn.

I chalked it up to cheap pads. Who knows ?!?

 

[MountainGoat]

Surprise:

Ranger rear brake pad replacement info
For anyone attempting to service their rear brakes on the Ranger you will need a caliper wind back piston retractor tool that has both a right- and left-hand thread. The drivers side piston must be turned in counterclockwise and the passenger’s side is clockwise. Make sure to use the alignment mark on the caliper body to index the slots in the piston so that the pin on the back of the inner side pad fits into the piston. Torque slider pin bolts to 22 ft/lbs.

Of course it is a special tool. I guess the ole "open the valve and clamp pliers down on the piston" doesn't work anymore.

 

[Jhbryaniv]

Found this thread re the tool...

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/thre...to-depressing-the-rear-caliper-pistons.24262/

 

[puda]

So, I've had my 2020 Supercab for around 30 months, and it has around 40k miles on it. Recently the D/S center bearing needed to be replaced. Since then I've felt a slight shudder at start up. I took it in to get it evaluated, and they said it is "normal", which doesn't surprise me as the shudder wasn't very significant. I also got the oil and filter changed, and also asked them to evaluate a clunking sound from the front end. They said the stabilizer bar needed to be replaced. They also "discovered" that the back brakes need new pads and rotors, as they were "metal on metal". To me, it seems too soon to be replacing center bearings, and stabilizer bars, and full back brakes. Not sure why the back brakes would be trashed before the front. Is this normal?

Kinda disappointed. ):

Just needed to vent.

Can you describe your clunking? I have an issue with a front end "clunk" but only when things really heat up. Meaning stop and go driving in 90°+ temps or if I let the trunk run with the pup in it for 20+ minutes. Is yours audible or more something you feel?

 

[Ranger Danger]

I wanted to provide an update here on the rear brakes and what many of us view as premature wear. I'm told that YES FORD used much thinner pads and rotors out back which answers the issue beyond I feel anything related to the parking brake or traction control being a culprit. If you stay with OEM it will be the same setup so one option is looking into beefier brake kits for the rear.


I think I will be extending my warranty (ESP), already did it once with Ford after the fact to cover me bumper to bumper until 36K or 9/2024 and will extend it much further now that I have read about the 10R80 (CDF drum) Transmission issues around 60K for a handful of folks and the heating/cooling bled door concerns.

I can say still I have had a trouble free ownership from 9/2019 and 31K overall until the surprise with the rear brakes.

 

[Grumpaw]

I don't believe there is one part on our Rangers that costs a "nickel or dime".
Cheapest part I found was a set of aftermarket tire valve stem caps....pack of 8 for $1.50, which equates to .18 3/4 cents each. Of course the "real" Ford part would probably cost $9.37 each.

 

[tfisher15]

I don't believe there is one part on our Rangers that costs a "nickel or dime".
Cheapest part I found was a set of aftermarket tire valve stem caps....pack of 8 for $1.50, which equates to .18 3/4 cents each. Of course the "real" Ford part would probably cost $9.37 each.

… and be out of stock.

 

[f1loco]

Surprise:

Ranger rear brake pad replacement info
For anyone attempting to service their rear brakes on the Ranger you will need a caliper wind back piston retractor tool that has both a right- and left-hand thread. The drivers side piston must be turned in counterclockwise and the passenger’s side is clockwise. Make sure to use the alignment mark on the caliper body to index the slots in the piston so that the pin on the back of the inner side pad fits into the piston. Torque slider pin bolts to 22 ft/lbs.

Getting ready to do pads on my 2021. It was my understanding if you put it in EBrake Service Mode, you can use a regular clamp press to drive back the piston? Still trying to find a descent pad upgrade to try.

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