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JimJ
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Might get answers if you say what you are trying to power up. I’ve run power along the frame before.
Frenchy
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Nah man just run them along the drive shafts and exhaust!! ????
I dont know if you can fun them inside the frame since Ford likes to box things in. My suggestion is do your best to run along it and try to go above the fuel tank if possible. As for the rear I would suggest a Anderson 350 amp connector for the power wires and your winch. That will allow for easy connection as needed and you can set other things up(like power to a trailer).
I dont know if you can fun them inside the frame since Ford likes to box things in. My suggestion is do your best to run along it and try to go above the fuel tank if possible. As for the rear I would suggest a Anderson 350 amp connector for the power wires and your winch. That will allow for easy connection as needed and you can set other things up(like power to a trailer).
subquark
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I also like rear winches, since you often need to go back in order to get out!
I have a 1962 PTO winch on the front of my 1972 Land Cruiser and have always wanted to set up pulleys for rear use, but I never have and have used the heck out of an old chain come-along!
Let us know how it goes and I'd love to see pics! Good luck!
Apples
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If you're a rock hound, whatever wiring you do, better be well protected from the elements. It is possible to run up to about 6 AWG through the wiring channels under the door sills. You'll still have to access these through the firewall, so you'll need professional help if you've never done so before.
Access to the bed can be made through the flow-through vents in the rear of the cab. I've not tried to route wiring through the interior of the bed panels, but I've been told it is possible. You can buy a service manual for your specific model on line. I paid about $100 for the one I bought. The manual will show all of the panels you need to know about.
Proper fusing is in order too, and that would depend on the load. I mentioned #6 AWG, but you might want to check first to make sure how much room is available in the channels first. I mention this, because in a DC circuit, you need to size the wire, not for current carrying capacity, but for voltage drop. It is more critical for voltage stability say for an (amateur) radio installation than winches, but it still is a consideration which needs to be addressed.
You can use the under body, but to be safe, it needs to be in conduit. There are outfits about which do this sort of work, but it isn't cheap!
Lastly, since this is a vehicle install, don't use building wire! And don't use trick (neon) audio cable either, as the insulation isn't that good. Use Ranchoprene® or similar with a thick layer of petrol resistant insulation. Yes, it is expensive, but so is a car fire!
Access to the bed can be made through the flow-through vents in the rear of the cab. I've not tried to route wiring through the interior of the bed panels, but I've been told it is possible. You can buy a service manual for your specific model on line. I paid about $100 for the one I bought. The manual will show all of the panels you need to know about.
Proper fusing is in order too, and that would depend on the load. I mentioned #6 AWG, but you might want to check first to make sure how much room is available in the channels first. I mention this, because in a DC circuit, you need to size the wire, not for current carrying capacity, but for voltage drop. It is more critical for voltage stability say for an (amateur) radio installation than winches, but it still is a consideration which needs to be addressed.
You can use the under body, but to be safe, it needs to be in conduit. There are outfits about which do this sort of work, but it isn't cheap!
Lastly, since this is a vehicle install, don't use building wire! And don't use trick (neon) audio cable either, as the insulation isn't that good. Use Ranchoprene® or similar with a thick layer of petrol resistant insulation. Yes, it is expensive, but so is a car fire!
Mustang2Ranger
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I have a rear winch setup I made, haven't needed to use it yet (tested, fused)
How often do you plan on using it?
It may not be worth the trouble/risk of issue running the wires. For my setup I purchased some heavy guage 25' jumper cables to run to the battery when needed
How often do you plan on using it?
It may not be worth the trouble/risk of issue running the wires. For my setup I purchased some heavy guage 25' jumper cables to run to the battery when needed
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Toytec
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Whatever you do, make sure it's properly fused right off the battery.
Danager
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I would recommend running along the frame on the driver’s side. The passenger side is near the exhaust. I did run wires down both sides. On the passenger side, I ran it in the frame. About 6-8 16awg wires. What a pain in certain areas. There are areas where a cross-member protrudes through the frame. A couple areas where a fastener either protrudes into or through. When you get to the rear axle, pulling up and over is another challenge. So, run along the driver’s side.
I agree with using the Anderson connector. I would also consider adding a smaller set of leads should you want to plug in an air compressor or other electrical component. Run your heavy-gauge wire to the back, when you get to the crimp for the Anderson connector, add in a 10/12awg wire that goes to a smaller Anderson connector.
I agree with using the Anderson connector. I would also consider adding a smaller set of leads should you want to plug in an air compressor or other electrical component. Run your heavy-gauge wire to the back, when you get to the crimp for the Anderson connector, add in a 10/12awg wire that goes to a smaller Anderson connector.
Cabose-1
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Good thread, looking to do the same for the same reason. A hitch mounted winch
Was going to use jumper cables too. Haha
But after reading this, a fusible link seems more prudent
Was going to use jumper cables too. Haha
But after reading this, a fusible link seems more prudent
Apples
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Trust me! You don't want to use fuseable links, and you really shouldn't use circuit breakers. The choice depends on more factors than were presented here.
Auto makers have long since stopped using fuseable links due to fire concerns. Circuit breakers are only used in headlight circuits, and then they must be automatically resettable. Some of the later OEM lights, use electronic circuit interrupter devices for headlights. Everything else uses fuses.
The reason has to do with hysteresis. That is the time between an overload being applied, and the length of time before the circuit protection scheme trips, thus removing power to the device, whatever it is.
I have seen some absolutely horrendous installations of after-market wiring! I shake my head, and wonder who the idiot was who did the work!
Do it correctly, or don't do it!
Auto makers have long since stopped using fuseable links due to fire concerns. Circuit breakers are only used in headlight circuits, and then they must be automatically resettable. Some of the later OEM lights, use electronic circuit interrupter devices for headlights. Everything else uses fuses.
The reason has to do with hysteresis. That is the time between an overload being applied, and the length of time before the circuit protection scheme trips, thus removing power to the device, whatever it is.
I have seen some absolutely horrendous installations of after-market wiring! I shake my head, and wonder who the idiot was who did the work!
Do it correctly, or don't do it!
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