Rough Start, Idle, Limp Mode After Highway Cruise

AvockAdoo

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I've put about 5k miles on my ranger since I got it (has roughly 21k on it now) and today had my first "issue". Cruised for two hours home from Copper Mountain to Denver, stopped to run an errand on the way home (truck off for about 10 mins) and when I fired it back up, the revs peaked at like 3.5k, dropped and it was running SUPER rough with a CEL on.

Went to take off, it was obviously in limp mode, no power, no throttle response.

Pulled around a corner, disconnected the negative terminal for about 2 mins, plugged it back in, fired back up running smooth as silk.

I pulled the engine codes and found the following:
P2118 Generic Throttle Actuator Control Motor Current Range/Performance
P2ABD Generic No Information

Cleared those, drove him 10 miles just fine, fired it up again no issues.

Wondering if this is a fluke? Definitely taking it in to ford for engine documentation, but a weird glitch for sure.

I love this truck, it drives SO much better than my last truck ('19 Tundra), but I am skeptical about an engine issue THIS early on. I know turbos are complicated and I really do trust the truck (specially with a shadetree mechanic skillset) but am wondering if anyone else has had this issue?

I will update with what Ford says.

Additional tidbit - my topper was rewired about two weeks ago (another thread I started) to be switched off of the brake pedal. I dont know if this would have ANYTHING to do with a throttle control actuator, but I figured I'd make the puzzle more complicated.

EDIT: I also had it sitting with the hazards on for those 10 mins. Now, I will TEST the battery to see, but in my Saabs that I've had before a low voltage battery can do some crazy sh*t. Dont know if anyone else thinks this could be the case, but figured I'd throw it in.

Any help/insight is MUCH appreciated - Cheers Folks!
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Wytchdctr

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The ECM watches for brake and throttle signals in this truck so it can freak out if you hit both. I don't know why it would throw that code but I wouldn't throw out the brake wiring not impacting ecm logic in general in this thing.
 

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If you cleared the codes, don't bother going to dealer until they pop up again. Dealer will just plug in and say no codes showing now, bring it back if it happens again.
 

irv0735

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You might check/clean the the throttle body. I had an actuator that was sticking on an Ecoboost motor once and it threw a similar code and behaved the same way you described. Rough and low power.
 

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If anything it is possible something happened glitch wise with the PCM or the throttle body could be showing some signs of premature failure. Unfortunately the EcoBoost engines are known for throttle body failure even though not many with the Ranger have experienced this. If you have another issue have it looked at by your dealer. If have to go to Summit in Silverthorne. They have some good technicians there(used to work there but I got tired of flat rate)
 


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AvockAdoo

AvockAdoo

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Thanks for all of the replies. I'm going to keep driving it, and have the topped wiring pulled and just wire it myself to the trailer wiring, and if this comes up again I just wont clear the codes. I will also pull apart the throttle body and see what it looks like in there. Its possible the previous owner didn't run the right fuel, maybe there's something with that.

If turbocharged vehicles weren't so damn fun to drive, nobody would deal with stuff like this :LOL:

I'll keep this thread alive when I know more, any other folks who have ideas, I'm always open to hear!
 

Rp930

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Thanks for all of the replies. I'm going to keep driving it, and have the topped wiring pulled and just wire it myself to the trailer wiring, and if this comes up again I just wont clear the codes. I will also pull apart the throttle body and see what it looks like in there. Its possible the previous owner didn't run the right fuel, maybe there's something with that.

If turbocharged vehicles weren't so damn fun to drive, nobody would deal with stuff like this :LOL:

I'll keep this thread alive when I know more, any other folks who have ideas, I'm always open to hear!
I donā€™t think it being ā€œturbochargedā€œ has anything to do with it.
 
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AvockAdoo

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Maybe I'm crazy, but every turbo vehicle I've owned (Volvo XC70, Saab 9-3, S/C Toyota 4Runner, now this ranger) have all had weird electrical things that cause the engine to go into limp mode, all of the N/A vehicles I've owned (Newer 4Runner, Rav4, Tundra, Old Gen Ranger) have never had any glitches. I think the computers on forced induction engines keep a closer watch, and derate themselves in order to not self destruct much earlier on.
 

Rp930

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Maybe I'm crazy, but every turbo vehicle I've owned (Volvo XC70, Saab 9-3, S/C Toyota 4Runner, now this ranger) have all had weird electrical things that cause the engine to go into limp mode, all of the N/A vehicles I've owned (Newer 4Runner, Rav4, Tundra, Old Gen Ranger) have never had any glitches. I think the computers on forced induction engines keep a closer watch, and derate themselves in order to not self destruct much earlier on.
Actually most of the monitoring is mandated and intended to keep emissions in check. Other things like electronic throttle are monitored for safety. Manufacturers would not set it up for ā€œcloser watchā€ and have more check engine lights to deal with. Just luck of the draw for you I think.
 

26point2

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What was the 2 hour drive like? Were you climbing in altitude? I only ask because the F250 diesel guys used to let their trucks idle for 5-10 minutes (or more) to get the turbo temp down...especially if towing or driving in the mountains. There could be a temp issue that was measured when you shut down, thru some codes and then went into limp home mode before you even started it back up after 10 minutes.

Just a thought.
 

Frenchy

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What was the 2 hour drive like? Were you climbing in altitude? I only ask because the F250 diesel guys used to let their trucks idle for 5-10 minutes (or more) to get the turbo temp down...especially if towing or driving in the mountains. There could be a temp issue that was measured when you shut down, thru some codes and then went into limp home mode before you even started it back up after 10 minutes.

Just a thought.
The I-70 corridor is an interesting section going west from Denver. It takes just above an hour to get to Copper from Denver. When I still had my truck I monitored temp(oil, coolant and transmission) and it did just fine the whole way up. Towing I haven't checked in that place but I can say it does just fine.
 

TeaWrecks

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Hey, sorry for the thread necromancy but did it ever happen again?

I'm pretty sure I experienced a similar issue back in June and the dealership just decided to guess it was water in fuel.

I just had it happen again. Truck is sitting at the dealership now.

Both times, I drove the truck for 10-20 minutes, put the hazards on, then tried starting 5-10 minutes later with the hazards on and same thing. Goes into limp mode, revs to 2.5k then back down to 1.2k. I'm not touching the gas at all. Feels like it's misfiring, the engine is shaking.

Did you figure out anything? I'm hoping it's not my Morimoto headlights that re to blame.
 
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AvockAdoo

AvockAdoo

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Hey, sorry for the thread necromancy but did it ever happen again?

I'm pretty sure I experienced a similar issue back in June and the dealership just decided to guess it was water in fuel.

I just had it happen again. Truck is sitting at the dealership now.

Both times, I drove the truck for 10-20 minutes, put the hazards on, then tried starting 5-10 minutes later with the hazards on and same thing. Goes into limp mode, revs to 2.5k then back down to 1.2k. I'm not touching the gas at all. Feels like it's misfiring, the engine is shaking.

Did you figure out anything? I'm hoping it's not my Morimoto headlights that re to blame.
From my findings, it was my Morimoto lights. I swapped to OEM LED and havent had the issue. What I determined (with assistance from morimoto) is that each time my hazards "flashed" it re-activated the startup sequence in the lights, and since it kept getting cut short, it threw a fault code to the computer. I think the piling up of these fault codes with more than a few minutes of hazard time it trips something in the computer & sends the truck into limp mode.

All I know is, it hasnt happened since I switched to OEM LED, and I dont think I'll EVER use an aftermarket light again. The electronics in modern vehicles are too touchy. Not worth bricking a $35k investment.
 

TeaWrecks

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Wow. That is bad. Do still have all the back and forth between you and them?
 
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AvockAdoo

AvockAdoo

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Wow. That is bad. Do still have all the back and forth between you and them?
I'm sure its saved in my email somewhere. They ended up sending me two different sets of "updated" lights but when the first ones didnt work, I sold the second ones brand new once they arrived.

If you send them a video of how the startup sequence is activating every time the hazards are, I'm sure they'll replace them for you. It is a massive pain to swap these headlights out, which is why I gave up on them.

I will say the morimotos were the nicest lights I've used or seen, but reliability is more important to me.
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