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Repair Geek on catch cans

TJC

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Yep, getting to those PCV fittings under the intake is a royal pain.
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I was wondering that, whether any catch really helps. Didn’t sit through the 40 min video, curious whether those who have done it really thought it helped anything. Perhaps you don’t know of course, if its actually helping
 

les101ca

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There are two "studies" out there that I found on GDI systems with two valves per intake. They measure the weight of the valves, run them for X miles, weigh them again, clean them, reweigh them, add the catch can, run them for X miles, then weigh them. What they found is the intake valves had less deposits on them. There are a couple of other videos (Volkswagen) where they did the same thing but empirically looked the valves by removing the intake manifold and visually observing the condition of the valves.
 

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So far no one has demonstrated the need for a catch can on the Ranger.

A vented oil cap on a closed system is a terrible idea and introduces false air which in turn will cause the system to add more fuel.
I think the vented caps have a one-way pressure valve to prevent air getting back in.

The catch cans with the threaded bottom can provide a connection to a hose and/or a drain valve.

I don't know about his concern over 'filter media' the purpose of the catch can is to separate out the crap we actually see when we drain ours.
 


jblc

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What I did use every other oil change (every 10K miles) was CRC GDI intake cleaner. I used the MAP sensor port, plugged with a rubber stopper and a long hose, to inject the cleaner while the engine is running.
Cool. Do you have a photo of this setup? And how much of the can do you use?
 

shovelhd

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Cool. Do you have a photo of this setup? And how much of the can do you use?
20240927_064032.jpg


You'll have to tape the 1/8" hose connection or it will leak all over you. Again, this was for VW, so you'll have to find a suitable sensor port on the 2.3. I haven't got to that point yet, but I will soon, and I'll post about it.

The way it works is, you disconnect the sensor and remove it. Plug the hole with the stopper. Run the can and hose through the driver's window. Start the engine and hold the pedal to 2,000rpm. Squirt the cleaner and add more throttle to keep the rpms at 2,000. Hold each shot for about 10 seconds each. I used about 1/3 of a can each time. For the last shot, take your foot off the gas and keep squirting until the engine stalls. You may get all sorts of warnings on the dash. It's ok. Replace the sensor and let it sit for an hour. Change the oil in that period. When you're done, take the vehicle out for a drive on a road where you can hold the rpms steady at 2,000rpm to 3,000rpm or so for 20 minutes. Then find a road where you can do full on, full throttle blasts. Do at least five of them. The first few will blow out all sorts of nasty black crap. The rest may or may not. Once the exhaust looks clean, you're done. For me, the difference in the throttle response was immediate, and the next few tanks got better mileage.
 

LawnMM

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So far no one has demonstrated the need for a catch can on the Ranger.

A vented oil cap on a closed system is a terrible idea and introduces false air which in turn will cause the system to add more fuel.
Then why is one built into the driver's side of the motor?

The vented caps have a one way valve, no false air introduced, and it only opens if there's excessive crankcase pressure to push it up and open.
 

got3fords

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One GDI valve cleaner comparison video I watched made what I thought was a good point and something to think about. The guy was testing several different valve cleaning products but made a disclaimer saying he does not like using that type of product at all. When the cleaner removes the carbon, it has to go through the exhaust side of the turbo, then on to the catalytic converter. It could cause damage in either of these (he suggested).
 

Rp930

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Then why is one built into the driver's side of the motor?

The vented caps have a one way valve, no false air introduced, and it only opens if there's excessive crankcase pressure to push it up and open.
Ok I’ll correct it. No one has demonstrated the need for an ā€œadditional catch canā€.

I don’t trust the construction of a vented oil cap at all. Feel free to use it all you want.
 

TomSim

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I have had my UPR catch can on for 18K miles. Currently at 21.6K miles Traveling I get ~26-27mpg. But it depends a great deal on terrain. From Central NC to the Low Country of SC coast there is a drop of 450'. I get better mileage going then I do coming back. Probably 1.5-2mpg difference. Went 675 miles to Upstate NY 75 miles north of Syracuse and avg 26mpg. That on I-81 through those 2500' hills, up and down...

In town 23-24mpg. I have both vacuum lines as well.

I do not have the vented oil cap.
i too average 27 mpg with the ford performance tune and 91 octane but no other mods
 

LawnMM

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Ok I’ll correct it. No one has demonstrated the need for an ā€œadditional catch canā€.

I don’t trust the construction of a vented oil cap at all. Feel free to use it all you want.
I'm demonstrating it now, I'd rather catch all that crap and dump it in the trash rather than have it emptied into my oil sump to be circulated through the motor.

Not everything needs a peer reviewed study before it's a valid idea.

As for the vent caps with the filters, get one or don't it's your choice like everything else.
 

shovelhd

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One GDI valve cleaner comparison video I watched made what I thought was a good point and something to think about. The guy was testing several different valve cleaning products but made a disclaimer saying he does not like using that type of product at all. When the cleaner removes the carbon, it has to go through the exhaust side of the turbo, then on to the catalytic converter. It could cause damage in either of these (he suggested).
I'm sure it's possible, but I had zero problems and a lot of success using the CRC product as described in three different turbocharged vehicles.
 

dozxab

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So far no one has demonstrated the need for a catch can on the Ranger.

A vented oil cap on a closed system is a terrible idea and introduces false air which in turn will cause the system to add more fuel.
FWIW...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v6h_FOzFMcs
 

Rp930

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FWIW...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v6h_FOzFMcs
Yes I’ve seen plenty of that. I am just saying I have yet to see proof of a problem on the Ranger 4 cyl. Anyone have a picture of this engine with a problem due to valve deposits?
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