Recommend a DC to DC converter

[ctechbob]

The autowbrake has to run off the truck AUX +12V power, not the battery. I think that is for liability reasons. If you can’t stop and the trailer battery is dead, that could open up some legal issues.

Limiting the current meant “charge as little as possible when braking” so the autowbrake gets priority. That would hook to the truck’s Aux +12V (black pin) and the DC-DC would either come after or be a totally separate Anderson plug.

That would also keep the Autowbrake from killing the trailer battery when parked, as I don’t know how it can “sense” a moving trailer without some standby circuitry looking for gyro or accelerometer changes.

So, wire it to the trailer battery. Run your new charge line to the battery and be done with it.

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[ccasanova22]

So, wire it to the trailer battery. Run your new charge line to the battery and be done with it.

Yeah. I guess the current draw while not braking is minimal, and it would take days (months?) before the trailer battery completely drained out.

 

[ctechbob]

Yeah. I guess the current draw while not braking is minimal, and it would take days (months?) before the trailer battery completely drained out.

Another option as I see it. Run a new charge wire with the Anderson connectors to your coach batteries.

Use a second, smaller backup battery and the 7 pin power to power the brake controller as a completely separate system. They make small battery boxes for just that.

That way the systems are completely separated. The small battery will get its charge from the 7 pin and the brake controller gets its power from that system, and you have a second stronger charge line for the coach batteries. It would be minimal weight addition, maybe 5 pounds for the backup battery.

 

[ccasanova22]

Another option as I see it. Run a new charge wire with the Anderson connectors to your coach batteries.

Use a second, smaller backup battery and the 7 pin power to power the brake controller as a completely separate system. They make small battery boxes for just that.

That way the systems are completely separated. The small battery will get its charge from the 7 pin and the brake controller gets its power from that system, and you have a second stronger charge line for the coach batteries. It would be minimal weight addition, maybe 5 pounds for the backup battery.

I like this idea. Forget to turn off a cabin light or other interior light? No problem. Keep the brakes separately powered and I’ll never have to worry.

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