Rear driver side brake caliper stuck and burning up inner brake pad

[Larry2305]

So I took my Ranger for a decent drive a couple of weeks ago, probably 200km.
And I drove through a puddle at a gas station and smoke started to pour put of my rear driver's side wheel and all you could smell was burning brake pads.

Came to the conclusion that the driver side rear caliper was sticking. Took the truck to my local ford service shop and they replaced the caliper under warranty as it was stuck and not releasing.

Picked the truck up today and took it for a test drive down the highway and stopped into a gravel lot and there's still a lot of heat and a burning smell coming from that same brake assembly. As if nothing has changed even tho there's a new caliper. Needless to say the truck is going back tomorrow morning and getting them to take another look. Definitely something else at hand here.

I've read a few forms on here that people were having troubles with the rear brakes.

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[Trash Panda]

So I took my Ranger for a decent drive a couple of weeks ago, probably 200km.
And I drove through a puddle at a gas station and smoke started to pour put of my rear driver's side wheel and all you could smell was burning brake pads.

Came to the conclusion that the driver side rear caliper was sticking. Took the truck to my local ford service shop and they replaced the caliper under warranty as it was stuck and not releasing.

Picked the truck up today and took it for a test drive down the highway and stopped into a gravel lot and there's still a lot of heat and a burning smell coming from that same brake assembly. As if nothing has changed even tho there's a new caliper. Needless to say the truck is going back tomorrow morning and getting them to take another look. Definitely something else at hand here.

I've read a few forms on here that people were having troubles with the rear brakes.

Unlikely, but have them make sure the dust shield is not contacting the rotor or caliper too!

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

Hmm, could it be an issue with the axle on that side, causing everything to heat up? I recall some folks dealing with axle problems that were handled under warranty.

 

[airline tech]

If caliper was replaced it normally comes with new hardware, so that covers the sliders.
It's possible a sticking parking brake cable is not fully releasing or a bad brake hose not allowing the fluid to return properly.

 

[Larry2305]

Had it in the shop today, they took it out for a test drive and said there's no noticeable problems coming from the brakes. They dismantled the caliper and re lubed the sliders and adjusted the handbrake cable. Hopefully that fixed something. I'll have to take it for another drive tonight and see if it's still acting up.

 

[5thranger]

If the caliper was replaced and the sliders are greased I would be looking at the brake line not letting brake fluid return back out.

 

[Larry2305]

Got it back from the dealer. I guess the hand brake cable adjustment fixed the problem. Took it for a long drive and I am happy to say I can't boil water with my rotors now lol

 

[Larry2305]

Is this a normal amount of play for my handbrake? Seems pretty loose

 

[NotBudule]

Is this a normal amount of play for my handbrake? Seems pretty loose

That's loose ? , mine only clicks a few times ...

 

[airline tech]

That's loose ? , mine only clicks a few times ...

Parking Lever stroke = 2-5 notches with the (First) notch verify Park Brake Light is Illuminated
plus, when fully down ensure brakes do not drag

Pull trim to access adjustment nut

HOWEVER, it appears they possibly just loosened the cable and did not adjust it. I am thinking the whole issue and its being overlooked is a sticking cable to the left rear.
The Springs on the calipers are the tension return of the cables, if a cable is sticking you will have slack in the cable.
The adjustment nut pictured is the only adjustment for the cable system

Another possibility is the LR caliper was not installed correctly, meaning the piston was not properly aligned to the caliper alignment marks, the purpose of this step is to ensure the internal park brake (clutch cone) of the caliper will engage and disengage when the park brake is applied and released.

I hate to throw a tech under the bus, but the tech is possibly missing something here and just short-cutted the issue by loosening the cable. This means that when you apply the parking brake (IF I AM CORRECT) then the LR wheel will not be fully locked (park brake applied)

If you look under the truck near the rear axle you will see this, I suspect the LR cable will have more slack than the RR. I could be wrong, but I highly suspect this is your issue.
If BOTH cables have the same amount of slack, then just adjust the cable. But spray some lubricant at the open ends of the cables and actuate them to ensure they are not sticking.

 

[Larry2305]

Parking Lever stroke = 2-5 notches with the (First) notch verify Park Brake Light is Illuminated
plus, when fully down ensure brakes do not drag

Pull trim to access adjustment nut

HOWEVER, it appears they possibly just loosened the cable and did not adjust it. I am thinking the whole issue and its being overlooked is a sticking cable to the left rear.
The Springs on the calipers are the tension return of the cables, if a cable is sticking you will have slack in the cable.
The adjustment nut pictured is the only adjustment for the cable system

Another possibility is the LR caliper was not installed correctly, meaning the piston was not properly aligned to the caliper alignment marks, the purpose of this step is to ensure the internal park brake (clutch cone) of the caliper will engage and disengage when the park brake is applied and released.

I hate to throw a tech under the bus, but the tech is possibly missing something here and just short-cutted the issue by loosening the cable. This means that when you apply the parking brake (IF I AM CORRECT) then the LR wheel will not be fully locked (park brake applied)

If you look under the truck near the rear axle you will see this, I suspect the LR cable will have more slack than the RR. I could be wrong, but I highly suspect this is your issue.
If BOTH cables have the same amount of slack, then just adjust the cable. But spray some lubricant at the open ends of the cables and actuate them to ensure they are not sticking.

This is 100% the issue. I got up underneath the truck and the left side has much more slack than the right side. Thanks for the diagrams man.

 

[Glocker]

I had this happen to my truck, same wheel position, while they were still relatively new to the market, during covid, with no parts availability. It seriously overheated my rotor and it was touch and go finding a replacement!

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