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Question for anyone who's done their front suspension

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oarsirhc

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I did it this way. Removed the 2 bolts on the lower control arm. No issues with the axle.
How was replacing the bolts of the LCA? Did you unbolt the UCA from the knuckle to position it back in?
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DukeCanBuildit

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But then that spring and shock would be compressed 1/2 more then the other side. Where as making the adjustments needed only the shock is compressed. Which is fine because it's designed for it.

Just saying, that's one of the positives of having an adj coilover setup. I had it on my fbody and I have them on my GTO. Both needed 1/2 or so adjustment between each side to make it even.
Just curious.

With mountain bikes, we are always adjusting the shocks for pre-load, rebound, and damping.

With these coilovers, does having one dialled higher/lower than the other mean they have different pre-load or rebound?
 

21rangerCactus

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Just curious.

With mountain bikes, we are always adjusting the shocks for pre-load, rebound, and damping.

With these coilovers, does having one dialled higher/lower than the other mean they have different pre-load or rebound?
It shouldn't as the spring is moving up and down the shock housing. The shock rod is longer then a stock rod and is built to perform within the allowable range of height limits set by the manufacturer. Go beyond the lower or higher limit and you can damage the shock.

Idk if it's possible with the ranger eibachs to set pre-load. I didn't see anything about it in their Instructions.

On my gto coilovers you can set preload by tightening washer to push the lower mount up against the spring...essentially compressing the spring. Rebound is set by a knob up top.
 

ScarzRanger21(2.0)

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The only bolts I took out were the two holding the strut assembly to the LCA and the two or three bolts at the top. I remember struggling to get the assembly back in after installing the spacer. A pry bar was needed to compress the spring to get it back into place. I’m also pretty sure I used a bottle jack to lift the steering knuckle and caliper to align with the bolt holes. There may have a ratchet strap involved but I don’t remember for sure…

All I know is that it wasn’t a hard project at all, the entire process took maybe 30-40 minutes.
 

veloci1

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How was replacing the bolts of the LCA? Did you unbolt the UCA from the knuckle to position it back in?
No, no need. You can mark the lower control bolts position on the lower arm with a marker so you can at least get as close as possible to the original alignment before getting a new alignment done. Once you install the coilover, you have to use a jack to bring the lower arm into position. It's not hard at all. It will take you a few attempts, but, this is a much faster and safer than risking the axle coming off. I did my 2020 ranger and my 2024 f150 this way. There is a video on YouTube. I will try to find it.
 


Rockhound

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This is how I did mine.
 

hookem57

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Going to be installing the Eibach stage 2 leveling kit and in my due diligence of research I came across 2 very helpful videos:

Video 1:


Video 2:


In video 1 the mechanic leaves on the caliper and rotor which would obviously save me some time compared to video 2 where both are removed. When you guys replaced your front suspension or added a lift kit; did you remove the caliper/rotor or just leave it on? My concern is that the biggest issue I read is the CV axle coming out which I'm worried about doing from the extra weight of the caliper/rotor. I do plan on removing the axle nut and hitting the axle out with a dead-blow hammer, it's more so in the time before that. Also, any other advice you guys can give me? Thank you!
I put the same Eibachs you are and I removed the caliper. I have a Tremor and it made it so much easier. They just slide right back on.
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