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One Piece Driveshaft

Shoran12

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Shawn, thank you for the information. I am a former Navy engineer, and we use a term "trust, but verify". I want to trust people but when that trust has been broken by the people who I hoped to fix my Ranger, Ford, I become skeptical. Thank you for taking the time to research and document your findings. I have also done my own research and also reached out to Quandog for his research also. I will be placing an order soon.
Nave Nuke? MMN here
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navsnipe

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Nave Nuke? MMN here
MM2, served on USS Dahlgren DDG-43. Was in from 84 to 90. Went to NPS and made it to 18th week, got dropped, long story.
Thanks for serving. What boat were you on?
 

Shoran12

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And they would have gotta away with it if not for those damn kids!

I told the wife im getting a damn driveshaft and she just needs to get used to it ... but dont make mine right now , cause shes not used to it yet , i gots to pout and be pathetic for a while , dont underestimate either of those , both have gotten me laid most of my life...
This is my exact plan for changing out my rear leafs, shocks and front coil overs in search of a smoother ride. I start with just a slight mention and let the idea settle. Then I ramp up ever so slightly over time until the idea has been normalized for her. Works 90 percent of the time about half the time. It’s getting closer to my birthday so now it’s time to ramp up a bit more. ?
 

itzdave

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Does anyone have any ideas for a fix for the 2WD models? I just ordered the 1 piece TW driveshaft but it had to get cancelled because my measurement came out to 78.5 inches instead of the 4WD 68ish inches.
 

1pt21gw

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Hey @Shawn at Tom Wood's , I have a '20 XLT SuperCab with and electronic rear locking differential, did I read somewhere that your TW Driveshaft would not work with that differential?

For reference, slight lifted 2.5" in the Front (ICON 2.5's) and 1.5" Rear (ICON Leafs) as I tow sometimes, and I have a bed rack. So bed height goes down ~ 1" plus when towing or loaded bed/rack.
 


Shawn at Tom Wood's

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Does anyone have any ideas for a fix for the 2WD models? I just ordered the 1 piece TW driveshaft but it had to get cancelled because my measurement came out to 78.5 inches instead of the 4WD 68ish inches.
I heard about this one today. Honestly I didn't know that there were 2WD versions of this truck available but will be updating our website for the benefit of other 2WD Ranger owners in the future. I'm sorry for the confusion. To you question of whether or not anyone has a fix for the 2WD trucks, I doubt it. Even for the 4WD trucks not a lot of drive line shops can/will tackle the issue and I hate to say it but having a 2WD truck puts you in a category where I don't think anyone can/will build a one-piece shaft. Which means you are stuck with the often fruitless endeavors of trying to get the Ford dealer to fix it or fussing with the carrier bearing and/or pinion angle.

Hey @Shawn at Tom Wood's , I have a '20 XLT SuperCab with and electronic rear locking differential, did I read somewhere that your TW Driveshaft would not work with that differential?

For reference, slight lifted 2.5" in the Front (ICON 2.5's) and 1.5" Rear (ICON Leafs) as I tow sometimes, and I have a bed rack. So bed height goes down ~ 1" plus when towing or loaded bed/rack.
I don't know, our experience is still fairly limited and there are nuances and different versions of this truck that we don't even know about (see above). Ford doesn't seem to want the aftermarket to get involved with their trucks and they haven't exactly sent us a PDF with all the different specs. So we're learning the different variations as we go. I'd say that, generally speaking, as long as the length is 70" or less and as long as it uses the normal 4 bolt flange attachment at each end that we've encountered on the 4WD trucks so far, we can build a shaft. If you'd like, you can email me a couple pics that show how your stock shaft attaches at each end to [email protected], include a flange to flange length too. I'll review and let you know if it looks like we can build you a shaft.
 

TJC

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Hey @Shawn at Tom Wood's , I have a '20 XLT SuperCab with and electronic rear locking differential, did I read somewhere that your TW Driveshaft would not work with that differential?

For reference, slight lifted 2.5" in the Front (ICON 2.5's) and 1.5" Rear (ICON Leafs) as I tow sometimes, and I have a bed rack. So bed height goes down ~ 1" plus when towing or loaded bed/rack.
My 2020 Ranger 4x4 XLT Edge has the locking differential and I'm not having any issues. I have not locked the diff yet, but physical setup is fine. I am quite satisfied with my new TW Driveshaft. I have had it in 4 whl drive, high and low without issues. I can't imagine the locking diff being a problem.

- T
 
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1pt21gw

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I don't know, our experience is still fairly limited and there are nuances and different versions of this truck that we don't even know about (see above). Ford doesn't seem to want the aftermarket to get involved with their trucks and they haven't exactly sent us a PDF with all the different specs. So we're learning the different variations as we go. I'd say that, generally speaking, as long as the length is 70" or less and as long as it uses the normal 4 bolt flange attachment at each end that we've encountered on the 4WD trucks so far, we can build a shaft. If you'd like, you can email me a couple pics that show how your stock shaft attaches at each end to [email protected], include a flange to flange length too. I'll review and let you know if it looks like we can build you a shaft.
[/QUOTE]



Thanks!

I do have a FP Tune and 275 - 65/18 (32") Tires, I wanted to deal with the bigger tires, hunting transmission and have a bit or torque more for the trailer, but this looks promising. Not after top speed. Just smooth pulling / hauling.

I'll get numbers and pics for you.

Thanks,
Jason
 

1pt21gw

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My 2020 Ranger 4x4 XLT Edge has the locking differential and I'm not having any issues. I have not locked the diff yet, but physical setup is fine. I am quite satisfied with my new TW Driveshaft. I have had it in 4 whl drive, high and low without issues. I can imagine the locking diff being a problem.

- T
Hey Tony, Thanks for sharing! That helps my peace of mind, but not my wallet.
 

Shoran12

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My 2020 Ranger 4x4 XLT Edge has the locking differential and I'm not having any issues. I have not locked the diff yet, but physical setup is fine. I am quite satisfied with my new TW Driveshaft. I have had it in 4 whl drive, high and low without issues. I can't imagine the locking diff being a problem.

- T
When you measured for your one piece shaft, how accurate do you need to be? I’m going to be adding some rear leaf springs and some shocks/coilovers to my truck and if my very minor takeoff shudder get worse then I’m going to just bite the bullet and order a shaft rather than mess around trying to shim stuff. Just want to see exactly how detailed I should be when measuring and if I should round to say the nearest 32nd or 64th or what everyone here was doing when they measured for there’s. Appreciate it.
 

TJC

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When you measured for your one piece shaft, how accurate do you need to be? I’m going to be adding some rear leaf springs and some shocks/coilovers to my truck and if my very minor takeoff shudder get worse then I’m going to just bite the bullet and order a shaft rather than mess around trying to shim stuff. Just want to see exactly how detailed I should be when measuring and if I should round to say the nearest 32nd or 64th or what everyone here was doing when they measured for there’s. Appreciate it.
I worried about accuracy as well.

You obviously want to be as accurate as possible, but it is better to be slightly short than slightly long. I measured mine at 66.5" from plate flange to plate flange and I had about 5/8" - 3/4" of blue showing on the yoke.

I then worried that I got it wrong (too short), but the yoke used by Tom Woods is about twice the length of the Ford part. I drove the truck and contacted Shawn with pics and we both agreed that I was good. Even with the 5/8" showing I had over 4 5/8" of spline inside the shaft, substantially more than the Ford part.

I think 67" - 67.25" long would have been optimal for me. This is a good starting point and puts you in the ball park.

I would complete any suspension mods before taking a measurement.

Be sure to measure on a level surface and if necessary have a second person at the other end of the tape to insure accuracy. If I were doing it again, I'd have the tape measure begin at the transfer case flange and end at the diff. As it is easier to see the tape measurement at a 90 degree angle. This will give you a more accurate measurement.

Tom Woods gives pretty clear instructions on how to measure. Follow them closely and you will be fine. Call them if you have questions. Very friendly and knowledgeable staff.

FWIW, I would sell the truck before I'd go back to the stock shaft.

- T
 
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Shoran12

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I worried about accuracy as well.

You obviously want to be as accurate as possible, but it is better to be slightly short than slightly long. I measured mine at 66.5" from plate flange to plate flange and I had about 5/8" - 3/4" of blue showing on the yoke.

I then worried that I got it wrong (too short), but the yoke used by Tom Woods is about twice the length of the Ford part. I drove the truck and contacted Shawn with pics and we both agreed that I was good. Even with the 5/8" showing I had over 4 5/8" of spline inside the shaft, substantially more than the Ford part.

I think 67" - 67.25" long would have been optimal for me. This is a good starting point and puts you in the ball park.

I would complete any suspension mods before taking a measurement.

Be sure to measure on a level surface and if necessary have a second person at the other end of the tape to insure accuracy. If I were doing it again, I'd have the tape measure begin at the transfer case flange and end at the diff. As it is easier to see the tape measurement at a 90 degree angle. This will give you a more accurate measurement.

Tom Woods gives pretty clear instructions on how to measure. Follow them closely and you will be fine. Call them if you have questions. Very friendly and knowledgeable staff.

FWIW, I would sell the truck before I'd go back to the stock shaft.

- T
Thanks for the info. Sound like you must have had a really bad shudder then. Mine is at 10 mph and pretty minor but if it gets worse I’m immediately going to a one piece. I don’t have the energy to mess with either taking it to the dealership and shimming. I’d rather pay the money and be done.
 

TJC

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Thanks for the info. Sound like you must have had a really bad shudder then. Mine is at 10 mph and pretty minor but if it gets worse I’m immediately going to a one piece. I don’t have the energy to mess with either taking it to the dealership and shimming. I’d rather pay the money and be done.
The low speed shudder was probably like everyone else. From start up to 20-25 mph depending on acceleration. But I didn't like it. I have never had a truck or car with a shudder like that, and the Ranger should not have it either.
IMO, it is not a design or quality problem, it is the result of crossing the line and using cheap@ss parts in an effort to save a buck.

At 75mph I had a severe shake that could be felt throughout the truck. The faster I went the worse it got! Far worse than unbalanced tires. In fact, my first thought is that all four tires were severely out of balance or the tires were flat spotted... except that it felt like it was coming from right underneath me.

I have absolutely no regrets swapping out the driveshaft.

I find it curious that I have no takers for the Ford driveshaft. I offered it up for free!

-T
 

5thranger

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Ford has names or editions for the ranger. You have a Raptor, Tremor, Lariat and so on. After reading all of this thread and I mean all of it I think that this gen 5 should have had another edition called the Ranger Anxiety. Reading about vibrations, then there is fuel in oil, the charging issues how in the hell can you sleep at night! At least my tailgate goes down nice with a damper
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