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Notice to those who have replaced lug nuts

micl9

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An update to my earlier post. My DP nuts arrived
Measurements are below
1629063725228.png

My measurements of the DP are at the bottom, other dims are from DP.
So it is smaller - looks like we are splitting hairs based on the diameters.
BUT
I wont bore you with the math, but this results in a stock contact area (the tapered surface) of 0.773 sq inches vs the aftermarket DP contact area of 0.624 sq inches. That's a 19.3% reduction in contact area. As an Engineer that is significant.
So why did they do this and still recommend them for our truck? Hell I don't know!
I have my take off still in my garage (anybody want some machined wheels!?) placing each lug nut into the wheel it obvious the stock really settles into the taper and with moderate downward force you cant push the lug sideways out of the taper. With the DP lug its easily pushed out of the taper. So what does this mean. Again Hell I don't know! Its just an observation.
Just to add more confusion as I agreed with Phil that the contact area needed to match the stock lugs - form a site called https://www.dummies.com/ (quite appropriate) and an article titled How Surface Area Affects the Force of Friction
concludes with paragraph that starts with The force due to friction is generally independent of the contact area between the two surfaces.
I dont know what to think anymore!

To add more to think about - but totally cosmetic. That giant 1 inch ring where the cap is crimped to the stock lug not hides the uncoated surface on the wheel around each lug nut. Sorry OCD owners!

Well this has been a long rambling post - maybe it helps.
I may call some lug nut compainies. I cant belive the big names woudl push something out that has a chance of not being "good enough" as a wheel coming off could have some serious liability.

By the way my DP black nuts are very nice, look just like the McGard and Gorilla bulged acorn. Finish is solid, but time will tell.
hmmm should I go chrome.....
EDIT - I am running stock Magnetic wheels.
 
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PltFX4

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An update to my earlier post. My DP nuts arrived
Measurements are below
1629063725228.webp

My measurements of the DP are at the bottom, other dims are from DP.
So it is smaller - looks like we are splitting hairs based on the diameters.
BUT
I wont bore you with the math, but this results in a stock contact area (the tapered surface) of 0.773 sq inches vs the aftermarket DP contact area of 0.624 sq inches. That's a 19.3% reduction in contact area. As an Engineer that is significant.
So why did they do this and still recommend them for our truck? Hell I don't know!
I have my take off still in my garage (anybody want some machined wheels!?) placing each lug nut into the wheel it obvious the stock really settles into the taper and with moderate downward force you cant push the lug sideways out of the taper. With the DP lug its easily pushed out of the taper. So what does this mean. Again Hell I don't know! Its just an observation.
Just to add more confusion as I agreed with Phil that the contact area needed to match the stock lugs - form a site called https://www.dummies.com/ (quite appropriate) and an article titled How Surface Area Affects the Force of Friction
concludes with paragraph that starts with The force due to friction is generally independent of the contact area between the two surfaces.
I don't know what to think anymore!

To add more to think about - but totally cosmetic. That giant 1 inch ring where the cap is crimped to the stock lug not hides the uncoated surface on the wheel around each lug nut. Sorry OCD owners!

Well this has been a long rambling post - maybe it helps.
I may call some lug nut companies. I can't believe the big names would push something out that has a chance of not being "good enough" as a wheel coming off could have some serious liability.

By the way my DP black nuts are very nice, look just like the McGard and Gorilla bulged acorn. Finish is solid, but time will tell.
hmmm should I go chrome.....

This is good summery ... save one thing...I think. The Ford OEM wheels need The wider seat... as most(???)/many of us are still running OEM wheels (as I do as they are my winter set) AND want to replace the "bad" OEM lugs with better non-capped versions getting the correct seat size is VERY important... and apparently difficult to do.

BUT, if you are running aftermarket wheels, you need the correct lug nuts that THAT wheel maker specifies. It may be OEM spec, may not be. I have Fuel wheels for summers, and they are not OEM.
 
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micl9

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This is good summer... save one thing...I think. The Ford OEM wheels need The wider seat... as most(???)/many of us are still running OEM wheels a9i do as they are my winter set) AND want to replace the "bad" OEM lugs with better non-capped versions getting the correct seat size is VERY important... and apparently difficult to do.

BUT, if you are running aftermarket wheels, you need the correct lug nuts that THAT wheel maker specifies. It may be OEM spec, may not be. I have Fuel wheels for summers, and they are not OEM.
yeah good Point
I am running OEM wheels -so only talking about Lugs that apply to OEM
 

micl9

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My last pic on this topic - Had a metric bolt in my Hdw pile and threaded the 2 together. You can really see the difference! Sending these back....
Probably will go Dorman and stay with chrome, just in case the black coating has an impact on retention.
1629139536646.webp
 


charwest

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why are the lug nuts in standard and the rest of the fasteners on the truck in metric?

i was skimming this thread looking for advice on whether i really need a torque wrench (instead of just an impact wrench like i am confident most tire shops use) and was surprised to see the lugs are standard. good to know, as i had my breaker bar and metric sockets only in the truck and might have damaged some hardware had i had a flat.
 

Progeny2021

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Whew!!!! The first two accessories I purchased were the Ford locking lug set and Ford F/R splash guards. Couldn't use my Ford Pass Points as the excuse used was the 'necessary person to process the Ford Pass Points didn't work saturdays'.(?) No, this wasn't the dealer I purchased Ranger from.

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f6sz-1a043-aa.webp
 

Rinn69

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charwest

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ok. good to know. i get that 19mm is close enough, but are the lug nuts really in standard and 19mm works, or are american lug nuts actually typically sized in standard while the rest of the truck is metric?

or are the lug nuts 19mm and folks are saying 3/4" because it sounds nice?
 

Dereku

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It is probably obvious, but I wanted to point it out to hopefully save someone a headache down the line.

The factory lug nuts are 3/4", as is the included lug wrench on the truck. The gorilla automotive lug nuts I swapped are 13/16.

No big deal, but if you get a flat tire, you wont be able to use the lug wrench on the truck to get your tire off. Be sure to put tools on your truck so you can get them off when needed.

This is how I mounted a lug wrench behind the rear seat (and a couple of hitches as well ?). It fits better than it looks from this picture.
20210525_175409.jpg
I'm going to have to pop my back seat open again and see what I can fit there. I swear it wasn't that big, but obviously you fit a lot of stuff in there.
 

SigOris

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It is probably obvious, but I wanted to point it out to hopefully save someone a headache down the line.

The factory lug nuts are 3/4", as is the included lug wrench on the truck. The gorilla automotive lug nuts I swapped are 13/16.

No big deal, but if you get a flat tire, you wont be able to use the lug wrench on the truck to get your tire off. Be sure to put tools on your truck so you can get them off when needed.

This is how I mounted a lug wrench behind the rear seat (and a couple of hitches as well ?). It fits better than it looks from this picture.
20210525_175409.jpg
Or just pack a four way and call it good. The added leverage is a plus too.
 

SigOris

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Is yours a ratcheting breaker bar? I'm thinking this non-ratcheting one from Harbor would probably be sufficient since it will only be used for the rare occasion of changing a flat (I would 1st call roadside assistance and only change it if they were not available) or would ratcheting be a better choice?
1/2 in. Drive 18 in. Breaker Bar (harborfreight.com)

Do you use an extension off the breaker bar and also with a deep 3/4" socket? If you ever had to remove lug nuts with the breaker bar, do you replace them using a torque wrench? I have a floor jack but it takes up a lot of space in my SCab, especially when I'm traveling. :)
That’s what I keep in both cars with impact wrench rated socket
 
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Or just pack a four way and call it good. The added leverage is a plus too.
That is a 4 way I keep behind my seat, which was kinda the point of the thread. If you dont pack something, and installed a different sized lug, you won't be able to get the tire off in an emergency.
 

SigOris

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On road trips I toss my cordless impact in the truck with the right socket. If I get a flat just picture that scene from Christmas Story, but in 2021.

And you won’t shoot your eye out :^)
 
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A lot of great threads and info as usual guys (and maestro @P. A. Schilke )! After I read thru posts and knowing I am running the factory 17" magnetic painted aluminum wheels, I believe the below cartoon represents OEM/stock 2 piece chrome nuts overall dimensions. For SOLID / 1-piece metal with 3/4" Hex lug nuts in BLACK color options, anybody running / still running these hyperlinked options? Anybody certain if all three options are indeed 1-piece metal nuts? Thanks guys!

Please remind me what the Ford torque value is and if it's lubed or not-lubed? I've always thought lubing with a little bit of schmutz (Never-Seez nickel paste) on the stud threads was a good idea.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-14-12...ts-For-Stock-Wheels-Black-Chrome/124189638484

https://www.americantrucks.com/frt-...uts-set-of-24-80k645blk.html#customer_reviews

https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-performance-lug-nut-set-m12x1-5-black-ranger-bronco/p/M1012BRKIT/

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