New Speakers, Amp and Sub

[Paul Moline]

I'm not the OP, but here is the link to my own write up.

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/thre...cker-hideaway-speaker.6776/page-2#post-144286

First, I did not pay any extra customs charges for the Aussie under seat box I bought off ebay.

The Kicker Key 180.4 has been replaced with a new designation the Kicker Key 200.4
It fits nicely above the glove box, tucked away inside the dash. There is a steel bar, with holes that match up perfect for mounting the small amp with the help of a small peice of wood.

The door speakers and tweeters, I replaced with PowerBass OE65C-FD components for the front doors, and the PowerBass OE652-FD 2-way for the rear doors. They are direct factory replacements, though I did have to add cutomized (cut to fit) Stinger Roadkill RKFR6 FAST Rings to fill some space between the rear door panels and the speakers. I also had to use a step bit to drill 2 holes for the rear door speaker wires to pass through. A little touch up paint, and a couple rubber grommets and it looks like it came that way from the factory.

The sub amp is a Rockford Fosgate Punch P300X1 300w single channel aplifier. For mounting the amp, I pulled back the carpet and gorilla glued a peice of 3/8 plywood to the rear cab. Once that dried, I put the carpet back in place and used some short stainless screws to mount the amp.

For the sub, I ended up going with a Kicker CompVR 43CVR102, the rubber bezle around the magnet had to be removed in order to fit inside the sub box. I did also line the inside of the sub usning spray glue with 2 layers of Poly Fil Extra Loft Quilt Batting.

The bass knob fits nicely in the fuse panel, where it does not get in the way at all.

With the seat closed and locked into position, you would never know any of it is there until you turn up the volume. It's not going to rattle anyone's windows, but it is well more than enough for you to feel the bass.

I will end up re-carpeting the sub box as I am not very pleased with the quality of the covering itself.

Enough said, now for some pics.

The screws holding down the amp above the glove box, do they run through the wood and bolt down from behind the steel bars?

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[DriverA]

That support bar has 2 holes already. I simply mounted my amp to the wood, and ran screws up through those holes into the wood from underneath.

 

[Paul Moline]

That support bar has 2 holes already. I simply mounted my amp to the wood, and ran screws up through those holes into the wood from underneath.

That's what I was thinking, thanks for getting back to me.

 

[Chaney]

Do you have the power seats on your truck? Wondering if the sub will fit with power seats.

I just swapped out the factory speakers in my XLT and added amps and a sub (kept the factory head unit), on a relatively modest budget, and it made a huge difference. I didn't want or need window shaking bass or tons of power, and this setup really added some oomph, provided really clear sound, and built up the low end. $600 all in, including installation.

Here's what I added:
1. Infinity Basslink SM compact amplifier and 8" subwoofer. Tucked under the passenger seat:
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-mYejTePyWKZ/p_108BASSLSM/Infinity-BassLink-SM.html
2. Infinity 4 channel amp (6004A). This fit behind the head unit in the dash.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108P6004AM/Infinity-Primus-6004a.html?skipvs=T
3. Infinity Reference 6 1/2" - rear doors
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108R6532EM/Infinity-Reference-REF-6532ex.html?skipvs=T
4. JBL 601CF - front doors
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109CT601C/JBL-Concert-Series-601CF.html

Pretty happy with the result, and I've had to turn down the bass level on the sub - it really cranks.

Do you have the power seats on your truck? Wondering if the sub will fit with power seats.

Did your truck have the B&O system? Did the factory unit have any amp output? Did you just tap into the speaker wires in dash or where did you tie into? I am about to add a 10'' sub under rear seat and amp behind rear seat myself, so I am researching all info I can get! Thanks!!!

 

[JimmyH]

I will be posting my sub install. It will be under the seat and will be using the Hi Level In to install.

Rockville SS8P 400w 8" Slim Under-Seat Active Powered Subwoofer

I know this is a super old thread, but how did the Rockville 8” powered subwoofer work out? Did it last? Did it put out decent enough bass inside the cab? Looking at this as it will fit in the recessed space behind the seat with the jack in place. I’d like to go with the larger 10” one, but don't want to cut carpet or remove the jack.

 

[ramong]

I know this is a super old thread, but how did the Rockville 8” powered subwoofer work out? Did it last? Did it put out decent enough bass inside the cab? Looking at this as it will fit in the recessed space behind the seat with the jack in place. I’d like to go with the larger 10” one, but don't want to cut carpet or remove the jack.

Thank for the reminder. Let me do that today.

 

[ramong]

I cannot upload it file to large, here link to my dropbox.

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/sq4p...ey=2xwx29s0s71ofu0av8cp26gnu&st=qx2j8iwo&dl=0

 

[JimmyH]

I cannot upload it file to large, here link to my dropbox.

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/sq4p...ey=2xwx29s0s71ofu0av8cp26gnu&st=qx2j8iwo&dl=0

Thank you sir! I actually made the FORScan change today to flatten the EQ. In ACM, changed EQ setting from 1 to 0. This did net some more volume out of all four door speakers. Rear speakers also seem to have full frequency range to them now. Definitely sounds better. It is also true that the chime volume is louder. Not annoyingly so, but louder nonetheless. Now just trying to figure out what door speakers I am going to install and if I’m going with the easier installed 8” powered sub or going to try and fit the 10” powered sub.

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