fusseli
Well-Known Member
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- #1
I have spent many years dabbling in the design of speakers, home theater, car audio, and even a touch of pro audio back in college. I got the 501A to option out my Ranger to the gills, this being the first OE premium sound system I've got somewhat on purpose. My impressions are that it sounds decent. My gripes are that the doors rattle way too easily, and that the bass is too thin. To be honest this is a big let down. The tiny 5" B&O Play subwoofer is really laughable to be honest. I don't know why they don't do 6x8s in the doors like Ford used to, or 6x9s like FCA does now. Anyhow, the system is fine for what it is, and probably great for the casual listener.
My general plan will be to replace the sub and speakers, use a 5-channel amp, and use the A2B signal processor. The doors will get some lining and felt added to kill the buzzes.
I don't think 501A was a "waste" by just replacing parts of the stereo system because I still get the Nav/Tech/Remote Start package out of it. What it does do, is require a cost of admission to upgrade the B&O system since Ford is now sending digital A2B link to the B&O amp that powers all 10 speakers (really 8 speakers: sub, center, front tweets, front woofers, rear coaxials).
A benefit to upgrading the B&O may be that the OE amp is sending a filtered signal over dedicated wiring to the front tweeters. This is based on what I've seen so far, I have not verified this yet. Based off the pin-outs below it should be true. I will validate that when I tackle the speakers, I am starting with the subwoofer.
One may have to do the B&O Ranger all at once since any change means removing the B&O amp and replacing it with a processor like the NavTV Zen-A2B/DSP-12A-A2B. I have read around the F-150 forums a lot to learn from their B&O and A2B experiences, which are sounding nearly identical to the Ranger B&O setup. From the sounds of it, one would not want to use the factory high-level signal to a new sub since it is heavily tuned by the sync/B&O system such as cutting bass for high volume. The approach looks like using the Zen2 and then RCA to a 5ch or 4ch + sub amps. A big shortcut, and sound quality benefit, is that it sounds like from the NavTV manual that you can keep the factory B&O digital time alignment using the "Surround" Sync3 audio setting, but otherwise get a flat EQ and compression-free signal out to all channels. This means that those more keen on sound quality than spending $$$$ on car audio sound processors, is that you can skip a sound processor and still get very valuable DSP functionality. Given, we've had dropped the extra ~$500 for the NavTV Zen2 already, one shouldn't need more than that and the active filters built into virtually all car amps.
I have taken rough measurements on the sub area and it's really tight back there. Most "truck" subwoofer enclosures will not fit there, including the relatively small Alpine SBT-10SV, SBR-S8, and others. Looks like the maximum total depth may not be bigger than 6 inches near the bottom. I'm on the fence between making my own enclosure or working on something off the shelf. I'm a lot lazier than I used to be but audio is still a fun hobby!
-- From a WAG on some measurements, the 10" JL TW1 based CS110LG-TW-2 might squeeze in with trimming
-- Pioneer UDSW250T (~3" mounting depth) & UDSW250D (~4" mounting depth) enclosures might squeeze in with trimming, use sub of choice
Here's a small collection of subs people have added and info I have found regarding the subwoofer replacement in the B&O system:
https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/b-o-replacement-speaker-sizes.2697/
https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/kicker-sub-upgrade.3659/
https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/kicker-sub-upgrade.3659/#post-55411
https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/kicker-sub-upgrade.3659/page-2#post-58355
Kicker 6" passive radiator sub can fit -- I'm personally not interested.
JL 13TW5 fit in a custom box with trimming of the back wall in the cab -- that may be too much for me also, I want to keep the jack back there if possible.
Normal subs fit under the rear seat -- I'm not interested, I have recovery and other gear that has to go there, there's not much space to spare even in the 4 door Ranger.
My general plan will be to replace the sub and speakers, use a 5-channel amp, and use the A2B signal processor. The doors will get some lining and felt added to kill the buzzes.
I don't think 501A was a "waste" by just replacing parts of the stereo system because I still get the Nav/Tech/Remote Start package out of it. What it does do, is require a cost of admission to upgrade the B&O system since Ford is now sending digital A2B link to the B&O amp that powers all 10 speakers (really 8 speakers: sub, center, front tweets, front woofers, rear coaxials).
A benefit to upgrading the B&O may be that the OE amp is sending a filtered signal over dedicated wiring to the front tweeters. This is based on what I've seen so far, I have not verified this yet. Based off the pin-outs below it should be true. I will validate that when I tackle the speakers, I am starting with the subwoofer.
One may have to do the B&O Ranger all at once since any change means removing the B&O amp and replacing it with a processor like the NavTV Zen-A2B/DSP-12A-A2B. I have read around the F-150 forums a lot to learn from their B&O and A2B experiences, which are sounding nearly identical to the Ranger B&O setup. From the sounds of it, one would not want to use the factory high-level signal to a new sub since it is heavily tuned by the sync/B&O system such as cutting bass for high volume. The approach looks like using the Zen2 and then RCA to a 5ch or 4ch + sub amps. A big shortcut, and sound quality benefit, is that it sounds like from the NavTV manual that you can keep the factory B&O digital time alignment using the "Surround" Sync3 audio setting, but otherwise get a flat EQ and compression-free signal out to all channels. This means that those more keen on sound quality than spending $$$$ on car audio sound processors, is that you can skip a sound processor and still get very valuable DSP functionality. Given, we've had dropped the extra ~$500 for the NavTV Zen2 already, one shouldn't need more than that and the active filters built into virtually all car amps.
I have taken rough measurements on the sub area and it's really tight back there. Most "truck" subwoofer enclosures will not fit there, including the relatively small Alpine SBT-10SV, SBR-S8, and others. Looks like the maximum total depth may not be bigger than 6 inches near the bottom. I'm on the fence between making my own enclosure or working on something off the shelf. I'm a lot lazier than I used to be but audio is still a fun hobby!
-- From a WAG on some measurements, the 10" JL TW1 based CS110LG-TW-2 might squeeze in with trimming
-- Pioneer UDSW250T (~3" mounting depth) & UDSW250D (~4" mounting depth) enclosures might squeeze in with trimming, use sub of choice
Here's a small collection of subs people have added and info I have found regarding the subwoofer replacement in the B&O system:
https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/b-o-replacement-speaker-sizes.2697/
https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/kicker-sub-upgrade.3659/
https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/kicker-sub-upgrade.3659/#post-55411
https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/kicker-sub-upgrade.3659/page-2#post-58355
Kicker 6" passive radiator sub can fit -- I'm personally not interested.
JL 13TW5 fit in a custom box with trimming of the back wall in the cab -- that may be too much for me also, I want to keep the jack back there if possible.
Normal subs fit under the rear seat -- I'm not interested, I have recovery and other gear that has to go there, there's not much space to spare even in the 4 door Ranger.
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