Lariat B&O Full System Upgrade

Johnpenn

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What new tweeters did you put in? Yeah a 22 uF would be a fairly low high pass filter, added to whatever signal the tweeter is getting already.
See my reply to one of your earlier posts and the one I sent Zaph earlier. I'd recommend that you do your sound deadening, change the speakers and listen to your system before you spend a lot more $$$ and do the amp and other electronics. You may be surprised.
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Johnpenn

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Oh ok I see that. Yes, just there for protection it appears, and it's a good idea to keep something in place, unless you are using a passive crossover with a component system.

With my non- B&O system, which appears to not have a dedicated tweeter amp, I would suspect the cap is a 2.2 uF or something like that. looks easy to get at, I'll have to pop it open and take a look.
Most component systems come with a crossover box for each door. I didn't use the Morel X-over since the B&O has tweeter channels. The cap protects in case the active X-over electronics fail.
 
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fusseli

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Oh ok I see that. Yes, just there for protection it appears, and it's a good idea to keep something in place, unless you are using a passive crossover with a component system.

With my non- B&O system, which appears to not have a dedicated tweeter amp, I would suspect the cap is a 2.2 uF or something like that. looks easy to get at, I'll have to pop it open and take a look.
Firmly grip the sail panel and pull, it comes right off, no tools needed! I didn't think to look at what the B&O cap value is.
 
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fusseli

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Most component systems come with a crossover box for each door. I didn't use the Morel X-over since the B&O has tweeter channels. The cap protects in case the active X-over electronics fail.
I would use the passive crossover that came with the speakers, personally. Morel is a reputable brand and speaking of tweeter protection, the passive crossovers would be designed with that in mind so by using them you are guaranteeing that as Morel intended. It would require a fairly detailed analysis to determine the suitability of the stock B&O filtering vs. any given aftermarket swap.
 
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fusseli

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Parts are trickling in, almost there. Decided to get some matching coaxials of the same vintage as the component speakers I plan to use. I was going to leave the B&O speakers in but I have decided to upgrade them all together and go with a single 5ch amp. This keeps all the b&o parts together that someone may be able to use.

I'm going to use 150mil noise mats in the doors and the 80mil everywhere else, like the back wall, that I can.

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fusseli

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Started in with a rear door. Also pictured are the rear door speakers from the 2019 Ranger B&O, which are coaxials. The two extra pins are unused on the 4pin speaker plug, these are a normal coaxial taking a single full range amp channel.

The Metra speaker brackets are shorter and not as contoured as I was hoping. I'm not too worried since it's the back, I may get fancy with some foam in the fronts.

The sound lining made a big instant difference. No more loud tin can sound closing the door.

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fusseli

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Some pics.

B&O speakers look like a lot going on. Mind you they are as cheaply made as possible to keep Ford afloat and try to turn a profit, and thus highly up-gradable, but there are a lot of small and important engineering here and in the door panels. Factory car audio has come a long way.

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fusseli

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Findings so far:

- A thick foam gasket is needed behind the new speaker mounts. You can see in the pictures that the steel threaded insert that receives the screws sticks out from the door panel 1/16" or so, plus the countour of the panel itself. 1/8" weather stripping **barely** fills the gap, and this still leaves the old alignment holes unfilled. So, extra tape, damping mats, and/or gasket material are needed.
- The speaker adapters are too short and not angled to match the OE speakers, so the new speaker is behind the door panel cavity instead of sealed into the cabin like the OE setup. I played with some acoustic foam and will be using some foam rings like the Roadkill RFKR6 to close the space between.
- The NavTV Zen A2B uses TI PCM5102A opamps, Analog Devices ADAU1463 DSP, and a Renasas RZ-R7S721001 processor. Neato. It also has a couple "blue wire" mods (they used green) to the board layout... this is even the latest version they state, without the DIP switches and mic jack unpopulated LOL

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fusseli

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Here's the PAC APH-FD02 that will pigtail straight into the 5ch amp from the factory harness at the B&O amp, no extra wire needed, and will pass on Canbus to the Zen.

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Here are the thiele small (T/S) parameters of my Alpine S-W8D4. They are a bit different than the datasheet, but from the noisiness of my old WT3's measurements I'm not sure how accurate these are...

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That Zen Audio kit looks like the right way to do it. It's a pretty impressive piece of tech. Keeping an eye on your build.

Your WT3 measurement looks a bit weird. Test lead resistance looks high and the impedance curve has a weird shape. Hmm maybe a lead is coming apart on the inside or something.

Is that Alpine woofer in box? Fs looks a bit high. If not maybe it needs breakin.
 
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fusseli

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That Zen Audio kit looks like the right way to do it. It's a pretty impressive piece of tech. Keeping an eye on your build.

Your WT3 measurement looks a bit weird. Test lead resistance looks high and the impedance curve has a weird shape. Hmm maybe a lead is coming apart on the inside or something.

Is that Alpine woofer in box? Fs looks a bit high. If not maybe it needs breakin.
It's free air. I'm pretty sure my WT3 is toast, no amount of setup or adjustment can get it working better. I was surprised by Fs too, it's a lot high than expected.
 
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fusseli

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It fits together like a puzzle to get the OE amp and sub out, had to take off the back of the bench seat. This was just a couple T50 bolts and the seatbelt which was the same. The trim over the seat belt pops right off.

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fusseli

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There are some fairly large voids and wasted volume behind the rear cabin backing. The whole panel back there tings like a tin can concert hall, this has got to be a huge source of noise left in the Ranger. I drove around with the seat out, backing panel off, and cabin vents exposed and there was quite a bit of road noise almost like having the windows cracked. It seems like they get rid of the vent noise by channeling it down. This is a great investment area for some sound damping and acoustic foam. I did 80mil camping sheets first and then 150mil foam on top of that. I will likely put big chunks of acoustic foam in the big spots when I put it all back together.

I also placed the sub and amp back in place to give a picture of how much wasted air space there is around there. Someone could do really well with a custom rear panel or sub box meant to fit the new Ranger crew cab.

Also pictured is the B&O amp ground, using a stainless bolt, which is the same spot I am putting in my #8 Stinger wiring kit ground.

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