What speakers is everyone upgrading to?

[CashSeeAO]

Any cutting involved in door or panels?

As for my speaker and amp install, there was no cutting of any panels or doors.

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[Sign1941]

I went with Rockford Fosgate for both front and rear. With a 4-channel Kicker amp (KEY200.4), they sound great. No separate subwoofer required. There is plenty of bass for me.
Front: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575P1675S/Rockford-Fosgate-P1675-S.html?tp=106
Rear: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R1675X2/Rockford-Fosgate-R1675X2.html?tp=105

So with these did you use the tweeters from the from speakers for the tweeter in the top of the door, or did you purchase separate tweeters ? From the description it looks like the tweeters that come from this are designed to be located down by the speaker and not up on the pillar?

 

[CashSeeAO]

So with these did you use the tweeters from the from speakers for the tweeter in the top of the door, or did you purchase separate tweeters ? From the description it looks like the tweeters that come from this are designed to be located down by the speaker and not up on the pillar?

I used the tweeters from the Rockford Fosgate components. They fit into the factory housing up in the pillar. They are superior over factory tweeters.

 

[Aftermath865]

Just started my audio journey in this truck today with some Hybrid Audio Technologies speakers in mine today.
Hybrids Unity U61-2C convertibles up front and Hybrids Mirus MV61-2 series in the back.

 

[FoD]

Got the Kicker's for front/back doors coming, be here Thursday

 

[thewhiteranger]

So realistically we’re looking at a $500 upgrade for everything and an afternoon of time. That sound about right?

seems reasonable to me- Im going to look into it wonder where power came from for the amp? and the on / off so it doesn't kill the battery?

 

[thewhiteranger]

Your understanding is correct. Also, I did not run any new speaker wires because that would be a nightmare going through the doors. With the FOR11-CK harness, no factory wires were cut/spliced. FYI, you can purchase the harness on Amazon also.
My intent was to power these new Rockford Fosgates with the Kicker KEY200.4 because of the DSP sound tuning that this unique amp offers. However before connecting the amp, I did power up theses RF speakers with the factory HU. They sounded OK, but the amp w/DSP tuning made a huge difference in the bass and mid high (vocals). Yes, installing the amp took some effort, but it was worth it.

where did you get power for the little amp? an ignition on / off source? and a signal wire to turn it on and off? Im seriously considering this little upgrade - dont need boom just clarity and a little more volume sometimes I really do wish there was an ford upgrade kit for this truck with a small sub. I have a Crutchfield powered sub that I have thought about adding it fits under the seats and does a pretty decent job. but Id rathe just do 4 speaker upgrade with the little amp

 

[thewhiteranger]

looking at the little amp and speaker upgrade but ------ where did you get power for the little amp? an ignition on / off source? and a signal wire to turn it on and off? Im seriously considering this little upgrade - dont need boom just clarity and a little more volume sometimes I really do wish there was an ford upgrade kit for this truck with a small sub. I have a Crutchfield powered sub that I have thought about adding it fits under the seats and does a pretty decent job. but Id rathe just do 4 speaker upgrade with the little amp? is there a simple place to find power? I dont know how much these little amps need

 

[thewhiteranger]

Your understanding is correct. Also, I did not run any new speaker wires because that would be a nightmare going through the doors. With the FOR11-CK harness, no factory wires were cut/spliced. FYI, you can purchase the harness on Amazon also.
My intent was to power these new Rockford Fosgates with the Kicker KEY200.4 because of the DSP sound tuning that this unique amp offers. However before connecting the amp, I did power up theses RF speakers with the factory HU. They sounded OK, but the amp w/DSP tuning made a huge difference in the bass and mid high (vocals). Yes, installing the amp took some effort, but it was worth it.

where did you get power for the little amp? an ignition on / off source? and a signal wire to turn it on and off? Im seriously considering this little upgrade - dont need boom just clarity and a little more volume sometimes I really do wish there was an ford upgrade kit for this truck with a small sub. I have a Crutchfield powered sub that I have thought about adding it fits under the seats and does a pretty decent job. but Id rather just do 4 speaker upgrade with the little amp -- Im old so no boomy stuff for me.

 

[CashSeeAO]

where did you get power for the little amp? an ignition on / off source? and a signal wire to turn it on and off? Im seriously considering this little upgrade - dont need boom just clarity and a little more volume sometimes I really do wish there was an ford upgrade kit for this truck with a small sub. I have a Crutchfield powered sub that I have thought about adding it fits under the seats and does a pretty decent job. but Id rather just do 4 speaker upgrade with the little amp -- Im old so no boomy stuff for me.

I used fuse #28 for powering my small amp. The XLT audio system does not use power from this fuse. It has a constant 12v source. As for amp turn on, I tapped off fuse #23, which provides a 12v when the ignition switch turns to the ACC position. Good luck.

 

[Trigganometry]

where did you get power for the little amp? an ignition on / off source? and a signal wire to turn it on and off? Im seriously considering this little upgrade - dont need boom just clarity and a little more volume sometimes I really do wish there was an ford upgrade kit for this truck with a small sub. I have a Crutchfield powered sub that I have thought about adding it fits under the seats and does a pretty decent job. but Id rather just do 4 speaker upgrade with the little amp -- Im old so no boomy stuff for me.

Pretty sure the aftermarket inline adapter harness for the factory radio will also allow you to easily tap both of these fairly easily without touching factory wiring or using fuse taps.

 

[CashSeeAO]

Pretty sure the aftermarket inline adapter harness for the factory radio will also allow you to easily tap both of these fairly easily without touching factory wiring or using fuse taps.

No. The harness provides a 12v constant source for something that does not require a lot of power such as a line level converter. It’s not enough for an amp. Also, the harness does not provide an amp turn on source.

 

[Langwilliams]

aren't there amps with auto turn on features that sense when the radio is on an turns the amp on without a 12 volt trigger? Read the amp instructions about what gauge wire to use for the amp. I run a small class D on my Harley an most amp brands want you to wire the amp pos an neg directly to the battery. I'm pretty sure I ran a 8 gauge wire for both. I used a 40 amp inline fuse.

I have a Massive audio NX4 laying around that was too big to fit in my Harley fairing...now I'm thinking about throwing it in the truck since it's possible to shut off the fake engine noise now.

 

[CashSeeAO]

aren't there amps with auto turn on features that sense when the radio is on an turns the amp on without a 12 volt trigger? Read the amp instructions about what gauge wire to use for the amp. I run a small class D on my Harley an most amp brands want you to wire the amp pos an neg directly to the battery. I'm pretty sure I ran a 8 gauge wire for both. I used a 40 amp inline fuse.

I have a Massive audio NX4 laying around that was too big to fit in my Harley fairing...now I'm thinking about throwing it in the truck since it's possible to shut off the fake engine noise now.

On my Kicker, auto turn on works only with speaker level input. I decided to used line level via Forscan mod.

 

[Trigganometry]

No. The harness provides a 12v constant source for something that does not require a lot of power such as a line level converter. It’s not enough for an amp. Also, the harness does not provide an amp turn on source.

If that’s true then why is it the radio only turns on when a key activates it. On its own it does nothing. Granted one of the wires is for constant power to save settings etc. So it also stands to reason another wire is for the ignition signal. That’s the one you want for your amp. As others Have said other places to grab battery power like where the inverter attaches in the console. The fuse taps works too.

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