K+N 63-2612 Intake Structural Failure!

[Glocker]

The lid was the only part that was fine. No damage there.

Well that's weird. I only say that because bosses around where the bolts secure the lid are broken. Seems to reason an abnormal force was possibly applied to the lid to cause that. I was wondering if all of this was caused by something being left on the airbox and then having the hood closed on it. Possibly at the dealership during an oil change or something.

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[Frenchy]

Decided to take a look at the instructions and noticed part of the intake tube is replaced with a hard plastic pipe. There is a reason that part was a flexible rubber hose

 

[Blmpkn]

Agree. K&N cool air intakes had benefit years ago. Today our Rangers and other vehicles have 'cool' air intake filter boxes with large, effective air filters. I'd go back to the stock box if you still have it, unless you see a noticeable improvement in mileage and performance with the K&N.

Years ago doesn't quite paint the picture well enough.

My 1996 ranger has a factory cold air intake.. hell.. factory cold air intake started back in the carb days lol.

 

[airline tech]

Decided to take a look at the instructions and noticed part of the intake tube is replaced with a hard plastic pipe. There is a reason that part was a flexible rubber hose

Agree on this as being a factor, but my reasoning for suggesting to check the motor mounts for excessive movement is being driven by 2 factors:
1. The cracks on the cover mounting points - suggest that the cone (filter) was slamming up against the cover.
2. The marks and the bottom of the housing and filter - suggest that the cone (filter) was slamming down in the housing.
That is a considerable amount of movement for the filter and the most logical would be the motor mounts are allowing that movement and the rigid tube vs flexible (OE) only enhanced it.

A quick check would be - Hold the Brake Pedal and give it gas and watch the engine, how much it rocks (raises) when its under a load, if excessive it will be notable.

 

[livetoski78]

Agree on this as being a factor, but my reasoning for suggesting to check the motor mounts for excessive movement is being driven by 2 factors:
1. The cracks on the cover mounting points - suggest that the cone (filter) was slamming up against the cover.
2. The marks and the bottom of the housing and filter - suggest that the cone (filter) was slamming down in the housing.
That is a considerable amount of movement for the filter and the most logical would be the motor mounts are allowing that movement and the rigid tube vs flexible (OE) only enhanced it.

A quick check would be - Hold the Brake Pedal and give it gas and watch the engine, how much it rocks (raises) when its under a load, if excessive it will be notable.

The filter was laying loose in the bottom of the airbox when I opened it. That’s why it’s worn. Who knows how long…it could have been not long after the last time I checked it 10k miles ago.

No response from my e-mail to K+N yet. I’m about to call them.

 

[fak64]

after removing air box and inspecting turbo fins
, you should remove the intercooler and try to dislodge any debris first from the inlet side then the outlet side. albeit if any debris comes out the outlet side either it gravitated there , hopefully or there could be valve damage that disrupted the intake pulses. although I’m not as versed in these smaller engines, I don’t think it takes alot to burn a valve with the temperatures these generate.

 

[fusseli]

This is bizarre and sad to see. It's honestly a WTF head scratcher. Never seen anything like it. And $5 says the dealer won't be your friend on sorting it out.

 

[livetoski78]

I called K+N today. Essentially, they told me it takes up to 3 days for their tech support to look at my e-mail with the pictures and respond. At this point, I don’t want a replacement. I have the Roush intake upgrade on the way and will use the stock bottom half of the airbox with that. The silicone intake tube should provide enough give where the K+N did not. I really don’t think it is the motor mounts, but I need to a second person to look at the motor while I do a brake stand and see how much it moves. As far as digging into the internals, I don’t have the tools and I’m afraid of what the dealer is going to charge me to check everything out. I would fully expect K+N to cover the cost. Somehow, I don’t think that is going to happen. Good business practices would dictate as such, however.

 

[Frenchy]

Understanding you want the extra performance, I would recommend sticking with the OEM Air Filter all together. It will provide the best protection for the engine and flows more than enough even with a tune(I know with experience).

 

[Dr_Strangelove]

I like @Glocker 's theory about someone potentially placing something on the top of the box and shutting the hood. If someone did that and then opened the hood to only visually look at the box itself and the lid, which you say shows no damage, they may have assumed "no harm no foul" and felt no need to open the box up to look for internal damage.

That thing looks SMASHED.

 

[fusseli]

I like @Glocker 's theory about someone potentially placing something on the top of the box and shutting the hood. If someone did that and then opened the hood to only visually look at the box itself and the lid, which you say shows no damage, they may have assumed "no harm no foul" and felt no need to open the box up to look for internal damage.

That thing looks SMASHED.

agreed, that’s a plausible theory. Nothing else really explains it as well as that.

 

[RedDakooter05]

The intake tube I had for my F150 randomly decided to crack.
The replacement came about a week later, the tube has random thin spots so I believe OP on this one.


I'll never get an intake kit from K&N again, but I'll buy their non-engine filters.
(Their home hvac filters are handy)

 

[livetoski78]

***UPDATE***

I finally heard back from K+N after harassing them by phone. Not a word about the pictures I sent or what they can do for me, just a long form to fill out . The amount of documentation they want is ridiculous. Fortunately, I still have the original receipt in my e-mail from 3 years ago!

The Roush intake kit is installed and I threw an aFe Big Mouth on there too since I cracked the original snorkel back when I took the factory airbox out 3 years ago. I will say, my mpg has gone up 2-3 since fixing everything, the broken K+N setup must really have been hurting it...or the Roush is just a better design.

I have been noticing, almost since the truck was new, that there appears to be a shifting/thump when getting on or off the gas quickly or downshifting manually. I took it to the dealer back then and they told me it was normal due to the multi piece drive shaft. Now, I'm starting to wonder. At least there appears to be plenty of flex with the silicone tube in the Roush kit. I've been checking it at least every few days to make sure everything is still good, and it is,

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