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Is this true

JonB

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I'm a 71 year old, retired mechanic and I can tell you exactly how to blow the carbon out of a 1954 Desoto. And it will have nothing to do with driving your Ranger, which you should do as normally as possible.
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gfitzge2

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I'm a 71 year old, retired mechanic and I can tell you exactly how to blow the carbon out of a 1954 Desoto. And it will have nothing to do with driving your Ranger, which you should do as normally as possible.
Does it involve pouring water in the carb? :crackup: I used to see a Chevy dealer do that out behind their shop. Probably charged the customer for a valve job.:mad:
 

JonB

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Does it involve pouring water in the carb? :crackup: I used to see a Chevy dealer do that out behind their shop. Probably charged the customer for a valve job.:mad:
Maintaining mechanic devices require a technical and factual understanding of their workings. These qualities are not required by people commenting on said maintenance.
 

ArchitectThom

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I don't know about that. My advice, let the oil get circulating. Don't turn the key and instantly take off. Let get warmed up before giving it the beans. Especially in winter.
I've definitely heard this, as well. I remember watching a YouTube car guy say it's the one easy thing everyone should do to help prolong the life of your engine. My only question is just HOW LONG should I be waiting after startup before shifting it in gear? Is 10 seconds enough time? 30 seconds? A minute? Unless I was just driving the thing 5 minutes ago and it hasn't even had a change to cool down yet, I almost always give my truck about 30 seconds or so after I start it up to circulate oil and warm things up before I go shifting it into go.
 

Nuke83

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It has more to do with cycling the wastegate and blow off valve to prevent them from sticking. I have heard of ecoboost F150’s that wouldn’t build boost when needed because the drivers never used the turbos for long periods of time. Although on the Ranger you’re probably in boost with anything but the lightest acceleration.
This. Pretty well documented potential issue on the F-150 forums. Wastegate can stick open/closed if you make frequent short drives and never give moisture a chance to "cook" out. By either having regular long drives and/or ensuring the turbos get some regular spin ups, cycling wastegates and blow off valves (BOV), you keep things operating properly.

It has nothing to do with carbon buildup/blowout.
 


dtech

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Ok I'm going to try this out. If I get pulled over I'm just going to tell the cop I'm giving it a "Tony Tune Up"! ?
I recall a news report of a cop pulling a guy over going 140 mph and his excuse was cleaning out the carbon. Then there is this from the list of 50 highest speeding tickets issued in Texas, no 1 was 166 mph .

#36: 137 mph in a 80 mph zone
  • Date: 5/1, 6:44am
  • Vehicle: 2010 Chevrolet Camaro
  • Road: SH-130 in Travis County (30.1058300, -97.6673300)
  • Traffic: Moderate
  • Notes: DRIVER ADMITTED HE WAS RUNNING LATE TO WORK AND THOUGHT HE WAS GOING 130 MPH NOT 137 MPH
 

cfhgarza

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I've definitely heard this, as well. I remember watching a YouTube car guy say it's the one easy thing everyone should do to help prolong the life of your engine. My only question is just HOW LONG should I be waiting after startup before shifting it in gear? Is 10 seconds enough time? 30 seconds? A minute? Unless I was just driving the thing 5 minutes ago and it hasn't even had a change to cool down yet, I almost always give my truck about 30 seconds or so after I start it up to circulate oil and warm things up before I go shifting it into go.
Popular mechanics says only 15 seconds for a modern fuel injected engine.
I always hit the remote start as I'm walking across the parking lot. Probably gives me a 30 seconds or so.

I just send these people at work start driving the second it fires up. Then they rip out of the parking lot trying to beat the shift change traffic ??‍♂
 

Vitis805

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I've definitely heard this, as well. I remember watching a YouTube car guy say it's the one easy thing everyone should do to help prolong the life of your engine. My only question is just HOW LONG should I be waiting after startup before shifting it in gear? Is 10 seconds enough time? 30 seconds? A minute? Unless I was just driving the thing 5 minutes ago and it hasn't even had a change to cool down yet, I almost always give my truck about 30 seconds or so after I start it up to circulate oil and warm things up before I go shifting it into go.
From what I have learned I would say anywhere from 10-30 seconds is acceptable. Any longer and I would be concerned about the cold start-up rich fuel mixture actually doing the reverse of the intention and cleaning off the cylinder walls of oil, as well as causing fuel dilution, as many have experienced with DI engines.

 

Rviator

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I think it is similar to the old "blow out the carbon" argument on older engines. When my dad wanted to have a little fun he'd floor it and then say "Well, I was just blowing out the carbon - you know you need to do that occasionally". If it helps justify my occasional heavy right foot, I'm good with it. :LOL:
This definitely applied to 4 barrel carbs as the secondaries would rarely open. My first brand new car was a 1980 Firebird Turbo Formula. A lot of throttle on occasion would make a huge difference or at least some carb cleaner. It was also sensitive to the brand of gas, Gulf premium was a no-no, but it loved Sunoco 260!
Absolutely none of this applies to my Ranger.
 

CO2Ranger

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This. Pretty well documented potential issue on the F-150 forums. Wastegate can stick open/closed if you make frequent short drives and never give moisture a chance to "cook" out. By either having regular long drives and/or ensuring the turbos get some regular spin ups, cycling wastegates and blow off valves (BOV), you keep things operating properly.

It has nothing to do with carbon buildup/blowout.
Perhaps they've fixed this. If you end up getting a squeaky wastegate you'll hear that it cycles multiple times every time you start the Ranger.

Hard to miss when it squeaks!
 
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So no one has hit the nail on the head.

The 2.3 Ecoboost is direct injected. Fuel goes right into the cylinder.

On a carburetor or most injected cars until direct injection fuel was sprayed pre intake valve. This fuel mixture cleaned the valves mechanically by the mist and chemically with gasoline. Direct injection cars get efficiency from spraying fuel directly into the cylinder. However they do not clean the valves with fuel. It's definitely true that turbo cars that never get "blown out"/ driven hard get buildup, however, all DI cars are prone to this. Some efforts have been made to combat this. I believe the 2.7 ecoboost has a seventh injector that is not direct and sprays the intake valves to clean them.

For the 2.3L a "direct injection service" can be performed.

Essentially a solvent/fuel like chemical is misted into the intake take post intercooler,pre intake manifold to break apart deposits. Typically recommended every 30k.

I use this:
https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/gasoline-fuel-system/bg-gasoline-direct-injection-cleaner/

It requires a special tool to aerosolize the chemical going into the intake. Usually takes 20 minutes to fog the car. Then you drive it and blow a smoke cloud and throw a CEL. For the excess fuel mixture......

Or you wait till 85k when it misfires because of carbon buildup.
 

BS67

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Been doing research on the carbon buildup. Just throwing this info out there....I welcome your ideas and thoughts.


Ravenol makes a 5W-30 Full Synthetic that has what they call SAPS Technology. Low Sulphated Ash, Phosphorous and Sulphur.
  • Particularly suitable for GDI engines
  • No oil-related deposits in combustion chambers, in the piston ring zone and on VALVES
  • A safe lubricant film even at very high operating temperatures
https://www.blauparts.com/ravenol-motor-oil-dxg-5w-30-5l.html

My question is this for the oil experts here and I'm not one of them by any means just thinking about those valve deposits. Do you think the high engine temp our 2.3L Ecoboost with GDI causes oil fumes mixed in the combustions chamber to over time cause the carbon? I know the dual injection sprays fuel to the underside of the valves where DI doesn't.

With these high temps do you think the low levels of Sulphated Ash, Phosphorous and Sulphur in Ravenol resolve the carbon on the valve issue?

Do other oil brands have HIGH Sulphated Ash, Phosphorous and Sulphur content?

Just throwing this out there. Look forward to your thoughts! Thanks!
 
 








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