Increased payload capacity for camper.

[mjamesreuter]

When I started down the camper adventure (love them) in 1968 I listened to experienced people. They said get at a minimum a 3/4 ton truck. Also got a sway bar on the front. Many people in those days used 1/2 ton overloaded trucks. Therefore the term "get enough truck" was expressed by experts. Now days people are putting high profile campers and pulling high profile trailers on mini trucks. I think that Ford marketing people have over rated the weight capacity of these Ranger trucks. There is more to carrying capacity than springs, tires, and shocks. Gear ratios and torque of the engine should also be in consideration. Personally I think that to haul a travel trailer or a camper requires a diesel engine and a truck that can handle much more than the weight of the RV. Part of the weight carrying capacity of a truck formula should be the profile of said RV. All vehicle manufactures should put a note on their weight capacity numbers saying numbers should be reduced when high profile equipment is used.

The photo is with the camper open, this is not a high profile camper nor is it heavy. Anyone not familiar with FWC campers and their associated weight should look further into them. ALL OVER THER WORLD people are using "mini trucks" with overland setups or for true work trucks. True many people overload trucks with campers but honestly I've seen this more with 3/4 ton trucks overloaded than mini trucks, usually people with small trucks are more familiar with their limits. In the states we are in the minority believing that everything must be so large and overpowered to haul anything. I recognize the global platform for the ranger is a little bit different but I am not overweight or pushing the limits of this truck IMO. I just got back from Colorado with no issues on the mountain passes, and other than more sway than I want the truck handles this thing without issue. The dry weight of the camper is around 660 lbs - there is literally nothing inside of it except for a bed and a battery (no furnace, water system, table etc). Just to make you cringe here is my truck loaded up with 1200 lbs of solar panels and still under weight with myself included

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[Frenchy]

The photo is with the camper open, this is not a high profile camper nor is it heavy. Anyone not familiar with FWC campers and their associated weight should look further into them. ALL OVER THER WORLD people are using "mini trucks" with overland setups or for true work trucks. True many people overload trucks with campers but honestly I've seen this more with 3/4 ton trucks overloaded than mini trucks, usually people with small trucks are more familiar with their limits. In the states we are in the minority believing that everything must be so large and overpowered to haul anything. I recognize the global platform for the ranger is a little bit different but I am not overweight or pushing the limits of this truck IMO. I just got back from Colorado with no issues on the mountain passes, and other than more sway than I want the truck handles this thing without issue. The dry weight of the camper is around 660 lbs - there is literally nothing inside of it except for a bed and a battery (no furnace, water system, table etc). Just to make you cringe here is my truck loaded up with 1200 lbs of solar panels and still under weight with myself included

With that said with the Old Man EMU lift the medium duty springs for the rear are a perfect match for you. They will hold the weight of the camper at lift height and can take an additional 780 until leveling the truck out with the lift. It will allow you to do the work you need to like loading the solar pannels and other things while having the needed clearance going on the trail.

As for the sway I say see how the truck is with the lift kit with and without the rear swaybar. I dont feel its needed as of yet for me but then again I'm not quite as loaded like you are

 

[Wes Siler]

I didn't realize you could get Fox, King etc to custom match to the spring rate. For those that decide on a leaf spring upgrade it seems like Deaver is highly regarded but that people have issues with the spring rate not matching up with the damping on aftermarket shocks. I'll reach out to Fox and King and see what they say/can do for a custom setup and how much that will set me back.

If I decide on something off the shelf it seems like the general consensus is an OME kit (which is relatively inexpensive) is probably the way to go. Last time I scaled the truck with the camper it was empty so I'll have to run and do it again with all my gear in there. Right now it is feeling like I am leaning toward OME... it might not be as nice but if it is truly more reliable/requires less maintenance I can keep my focus on my other hobbies assuming the weights pan out. Either way I need to weigh the truck again.

You'll be very happy with whichever OME kit you go with. Paying a load extra for custom tuning is kinda pointless, when that entire setup is purpose built to support a loaded up Ranger from the factory. Custom ain't gonna go a lot further than that.

 

[Mote]

You'll be very happy with whichever OME kit you go with. Paying a load extra for custom tuning is kinda pointless, when that entire setup is purpose built to support a loaded up Ranger from the factory. Custom ain't gonna go a lot further than that.

Hey Micheal,

I have a Four Wheel camper shell model also. I am working on FOX 2.0 dampers, Icon rear leafs with the extra leaf for additional 600lbs and firestone airbags with daystar cradles.

Just wanted to let you know that OME uses one spring rate in the front for both the light load and medium load packages and a single shock for all packages in the front. They do give you a different shock option on the medium package for the rear...so dont know how much "tuning" will happen.

I get this info from the ARB application guide at ARB USA:

https://arbusa.com/site/wp-content/uploads/fordRanger.pdf

I didn't go with ARB because i couldn't find anyone who would mix and match within the package. I couldn't get medium front with heavy rear without ordering separately. Also, FOX is rebuild-able and tunable.

Lets share our results here!

 

[Frenchy]

Hey Micheal,

I have a Four Wheel camper shell model also. I am working on FOX 2.0 dampers, Icon rear leafs with the extra leaf for additional 600lbs and firestone airbags with daystar cradles.

Just wanted to let you know that OME uses one spring rate in the front for both the light load and medium load packages and a single shock for all packages in the front. They do give you a different shock option on the medium package for the rear...so dont know how much "tuning" will happen.

I get this info from the ARB application guide at ARB USA:

https://arbusa.com/site/wp-content/uploads/fordRanger.pdf

I didn't go with ARB because i couldn't find anyone who would mix and match within the package. I couldn't get medium front with heavy rear without ordering separately. Also, FOX is rebuild-able and tunable.

Lets share our results here!

I bet if you would have went strait to ARB you would have been able to get the combination you needed.

Also it sounds like you still have issues with your setup since you did install air bags. As much as some belive they are good they aren't if you are trying to go OffRoad as they litmit the amount of travel when inflated.

As for the nitrocharger shocks there are two different shocks that work with the medium load springs in the rear. Depending on load will depend on wich shock to go with. If you go with BP-51's then its a whole different ball game but the suspension is already tuned to the right level for the trucks unlike Fox where you probably have to tune if for different springs both front and rear.(I should also mention that unless you change the front springs Fox doea not recommend adding a front bumper and winch).

 

[Mote]

I bet if you would have went strait to ARB you would have been able to get the combination you needed.

Also it sounds like you still have issues with your setup since you did install air bags. As much as some belive they are good they aren't if you are trying to go OffRoad as they litmit the amount of travel when inflated.

As for the nitrocharger shocks there are two different shocks that work with the medium load springs in the rear. Depending on load will depend on wich shock to go with. If you go with BP-51's then its a whole different ball game but the suspension is already tuned to the right level for the trucks unlike Fox where you probably have to tune if for different springs both front and rear.(I should also mention that unless you change the front springs Fox doea not recommend adding a front bumper and winch).

Yes, Frenchy you are probably right, contacting ARBusa might have got me the package I was looking for.

I can hear Phil wiggling around in his chair. What I am after is stock ride height with 600- 1500lbs in the truck. Pretty much a single use vehicle, built to handle the camper without dragging the ass end.

Going off road with airbags is tricky. They do limit your travel hence the daystar cradles which leave the airbag disconnected from the axle. A leaking or popped airbag can really suck, leaving you out there with a heavy load and loss of travel.

So that's my reasoning with the extra 600lb icon leafs. The leafs can shoulder the constant load and the airbags handle the difference in load between trips I take by myself and trips I take with the girlie.

If I was OP, I would probably start with rear shocks and next airbags with cradles.

 

[slowmachine]

As much as you are not wrong Ford also states in the owners manual to not go over a certain speed when towing(55 I think). Does that mean people are going to do such? Not necessarily since common sense isnt so common anymore. Also with Ford already doing their testing and certifying the Ranger for the payload and towing capacity I think I can trust it just fine. Yes its still crazy for a little 4 cylinder truck but with the gearing, suspension brakes I feel the Ranger is more than up to the task. It just comes out to being smart and not doing crazy maneuvers and such when able.

2020 owners manual, page 224:

When Towing a Trailer
• Do not drive faster than 70 mph (113 km/h) during the first 500 mi (800 km).

 

[Frenchy]

2020 owners manual, page 224:

When Towing a Trailer
• Do not drive faster than 70 mph (113 km/h) during the first 500 mi (800 km).

Being a.little curious I did find the same thing in the 2019 manual on page 220. Also on page 215 I found the following wich conflicts with the break in period a little.

 

[slowmachine]

Being a.little curious I did find the same thing in the 2019 manual on page 220. Also on page 215 I found the following wich conflicts with the break in period a little.

Nice. Another example that reinforces my belief that Ford copied and pasted content from other manuals and did a poor job editing, if they made any attempt at all, for the Ranger.

 

[mjamesreuter]

Hey Micheal,

I have a Four Wheel camper shell model also. I am working on FOX 2.0 dampers, Icon rear leafs with the extra leaf for additional 600lbs and firestone airbags with daystar cradles.

Just wanted to let you know that OME uses one spring rate in the front for both the light load and medium load packages and a single shock for all packages in the front. They do give you a different shock option on the medium package for the rear...so dont know how much "tuning" will happen.

I get this info from the ARB application guide at ARB USA:

https://arbusa.com/site/wp-content/uploads/fordRanger.pdf

I didn't go with ARB because i couldn't find anyone who would mix and match within the package. I couldn't get medium front with heavy rear without ordering separately. Also, FOX is rebuild-able and tunable.

Lets share our results here!

Thanks for the input. How are you liking the ride quality (both on and off road) of your current suspension setup so far? It is unlikely that I will be installing airbags as a load aid in my case. I am leaning heavy toward OME but have now spent a few additional hours gathering info on their BP-51 setup. Not sure if I can justify the additional cost at this point though. It sounds like we are after much the same thing which is nice to know someone else is out there with a very similar setup. I'll keep you posted with what I decide, install might be a ways away.... It's currently 1 degree in WI.

 

[Filthy McGnarly]

Hey there. I am curious if there has been any update to this thread? Did OP end up with a set up that works?

I also am working out what suspension I need for my 2019 SuperCrew FX4 to handle my Four Wheel Camper. Online it says a Fleet shell model empty weighs 840 lbs, I find it crazy that your shell Fleet weighs only 660 lbs while my smaller shell Swift (0 options, no furnace etc.) weighs 875 lbs - at least, that is what the registration plate says, I have not weighed it myself. LOL - just checked online for my model and it says 785 lbs dry - not sure what to believe.

Even though I've tried to stay as light as possible while building out the camper, my calculated max weight is roughly 1,450 lbs. including myself, food, water, gear everything I could possibly think of. Have not yet calculated subtracting the weight of the tailgate and rear seats. I plan to be on the road for a year or so, 60% pavement, 30% dirt roads and 10% off road trails. I don't drive fast off road, just need a comfortable ride that instills confidence on and off road that will be reliable and not require much maintenance. I'm looking for a small lift front and rear. Ideally the truck would sit level with 1" - 2" of lift when the weight is maxed out. Lastly, I'm hoping to avoid using airbags.

I am considering the following set up:
Bilstein 6112 front shocks and 5160 rear shocks
SPC UCAs
OME rear leaf springs - medium or heavy weight (any suggestions?)
Timbren off road bump stops
Hellwig rear sway bar
Stock wheels and tires

Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Do you guys think the medium or heavy weight leaf springs would be enough? Are airbags unavoidable?

 

[mjamesreuter]

Got off this forum for a good amount of time but I am back!

I did a full OME suspension kit from @Stage3Motorsports with medium duty springs, bronco steelies, and C load range general grabber atx tires. I won't go in depth into tire choice, it was partially determined by what was already on the bronco take offs but IMO there are way too many people out there running load range E tires on rangers and tacos for absolutely no reason. One caveat being true pizza cutters.

Much improved handling, much less wallow (still there a bit), much improved bump compliance. Overall happy with the setup. Truck sits level with the camper on and still has rake with it off as I wanted.

I have no regrets with the setup currently.

 

[Frenchy]

Got off this forum for a good amount of time but I am back!

I did a full OME suspension kit from @Stage3Motorsports with medium duty springs, bronco steelies, and C load range general grabber atx tires. I won't go in depth into tire choice, it was partially determined by what was already on the bronco take offs but IMO there are way too many people out there running load range E tires on rangers and tacos for absolutely no reason. One caveat being true pizza cutters.

Much improved handling, much less wallow (still there a bit), much improved bump compliance. Overall happy with the setup. Truck sits level with the camper on and still has rake with it off as I wanted.

I have no regrets with the setup currently.

Understanding the concern with many running Load E tires, it really comes down to what is available in said size that the individual is looking at. Also when you get down to it, when going into some rough stuff on the trail it does help to have the Load E tires for the added strength.

 

[Wes Siler]

Understanding the concern with many running Load E tires, it really comes down to what is available in said size that the individual is looking at. Also when you get down to it, when going into some rough stuff on the trail it does help to have the Load E tires for the added strength.

And E won't be any more puncture or damage resistant than an otherwise equivalent C, it'll just require more air pressure.

We're way past the days where the letter corresponded to a number of plies, now it's "ply-equivalent" and any LT within a model range will have plies of the same construction. Differences in puncture resistance then come from tread depth (the amount of rubber on the tire), sidewall design, and the use of doubled-over plies to add sidewall protection.

But yeah, finding Cs or Ds can be a challenge. And if E is all you've got, you'll be fine, it'll just take longer to inflate and offer less compliance over small bumps.

I just switched from E rated Toyo Open Country ATIIIs and C rated Falken Wildpeak RTs. Both 285/75-17. It takes me significantly less time to air up from 20 to 40 PSI (feels like less than half the time, but I haven't put a number on that yet), and the ride is noticeably better. And that's from a heavier, more burly tire. Still trying to find the correct new air pressure. The calculator says 35psi, but that looks a little low. Ran the old Toyos at 42 front/45 rear. Set the Falkens at 40 last night, have a 9 hour highway drive tomorrow, and will see how that feels.

 

[Wes Siler]

Got off this forum for a good amount of time but I am back!

I did a full OME suspension kit from @Stage3Motorsports with medium duty springs, bronco steelies, and C load range general grabber atx tires. I won't go in depth into tire choice, it was partially determined by what was already on the bronco take offs but IMO there are way too many people out there running load range E tires on rangers and tacos for absolutely no reason. One caveat being true pizza cutters.

Much improved handling, much less wallow (still there a bit), much improved bump compliance. Overall happy with the setup. Truck sits level with the camper on and still has rake with it off as I wanted.

I have no regrets with the setup currently.

Looks like you've made some smart decisions here. That suspension system is designed specifically to handle heavy loads and to prevent shock overheating on dirt with that load onboard. Sticking with a sensible tire size has maintained as much of your original final drive ratio as possible, while improving angles, and increasing traction.

The only thing you may want to consider is a rear sway bar (Hellwig makes one). It'll add a lot of confidence at highway speeds, but at the expense of outright articulation off-road.

That camper still likely puts you at or slightly over payload (FWC is notorious for lying about weight). But keep other weight off of/out of your vehicle, check turnbuckle tightness regulary, drive carefully, and you'll be fine.

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