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Hyper Flash Load Resistor

Ranger Pete

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The LED lights on the outside flash fine. Dash lights hyper flash. I installed a 50 watt 6 ohm resistor across the left rear turn signal bulb. Still has hyper flash at the dash, do both sides need to be installed before the hyper flash stops? The load resistor does get warm so it would seem it has good conections. Any ideas?
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The LED lights on the outside flash fine. Dash lights hyper flash. I installed a 50 watt 6 ohm resistor across the left rear turn signal bulb. Still has hyper flash at the dash, do both sides need to be installed before the hyper flash stops? The load resistor does get warm so it would seem it has good conections. Any ideas?
What bulbs did you replace? All 4 turn signal bulbs? You will need a resistor for each turn signal bulb that you changed to LED.
 
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Ranger Pete

Ranger Pete

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What bulbs did you replace? All 4 turn signal bulbs? You will need a resistor for each turn signal bulb that you changed to LED.
Actually , I didn't replace any I just purchased this truck and it had all LED lighting on it already. The only hyper dash that happens is on the dash with the indicators the outside LED lights flash normal speed. Thanks!
 

RangerBill

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Actually , I didn't replace any I just purchased this truck and it had all LED lighting on it already. The only hyper dash that happens is on the dash with the indicators the outside LED lights flash normal speed. Thanks!
What I said still applies.
 
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Ranger Pete

Ranger Pete

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What I said still applies.
So I watched several YouTube videos specific to 2019-2023 Ranger load resistor installs. All of them installed only one resistor (per side) but always on the front turn signal. I moved my resistor to the front and all is good.
 


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Good Fix - the reason that the LF is the most sensitive is that it's the shortest wire run from the BCM, so it's already the least resistive circuit
 
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Ranger Pete

Ranger Pete

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Good Fix - the reason that the LF is the most sensitive is that it's the shortest wire run from the BCM, so it's already the least resistive circuit
Every once in awhile the right side does not hyper flash, weird.
 

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In trying to determine - the rear taillights, is it factory LED housings with Blind Spot or is it factory (OEM) non led with (LED Bulb- Upgrades)

Basically, Did the previous owner do anything to the rear lights and if so, what specific changes did they make. This would be noted if you physically have individual replaceable bulbs on the rear housing - if not this is a LED Housing

To fully understand - you installed a resistor on both the fronts, and it cured the Left Turn - Hyper Flash but still get (Intermittent) Right Turn Hyper Flash
Possibly more noted - the longer (on) duration as the bulb heats up
 

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So I watched several YouTube videos specific to 2019-2023 Ranger load resistor installs. All of them installed only one resistor (per side) but always on the front turn signal. I moved my resistor to the front and all is good.
Did you put one on the right front turn signal also? If so, you should have one on the right side also.
 
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Ranger Pete

Ranger Pete

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Did you put one on the right front turn signal also? If so, you should have one on the right side also.
I will, I have not had time to do the right side yet. It's a little harder to get to.
 

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I had this issue with trying to change out the front park/turns with LED switchbacks. I finally just ordered non hyper-flash units. More pricey, but less hassle.
Also, just remove the air intake tube to get to the right side bulbs, unless your three year old can reach in there for you!
 

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If you have Forscan just go into the BCM and Disable the the front turn outage setting. This will stop the hyper flashing of the dash. Not sure but you might be able to enable the front LED turn outage setting right below it and not have the hyper flashing, and still get the bulb outage detection.
 

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I recommend installing resistors on both the driver's and passenger's sides, or replacing the 6 ohm with a 50W, 8Ω resistor. Increasing the resistance of the turn signals slightly will bring the total current closer to or slightly below the vehicle's original specifications, making it easier for the system to accept.
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