Got my Ranger back from the transmission shop.

[ctechbob]

I wouldn’t add anything unless they told you to. For a brand new rebuilt transmission, I wouldn’t think you should have to add any fluids or additives. They’re designed to run on a specific type of oil without needing anything extra. I’ve heard the shifting can be a little stiff for the first couple hundred miles after a rebuild.

If you’re in doubt, call and talk to them about it. Tell them that it’s shifting the same as before and there’s no noticeable difference since the rebuild was done. Better yet, email them so it’s in writing.

As far as adding anything, I definitely wouldn’t. I assume that would absolutely void their warranty, then you’re SOL if something does happen.

In a perfect world, you'd be correct. 10R80's don't live in that world. The valve bodies are still susceptible to increased wear and valve sticking. Unless you go through and replace all the valves with upgraded aftermarket polished steel pieces, Ford hasn't done much to fix that problem from what I've seen.

There's also the $3000 upgraded NextGen valve body...pretty extreme but what's it worth to you.

All the LG does is help with the wear and help with keeping the valves free and moving properly.

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[21rangerCactus]

I wouldn’t add anything unless they told you to. For a brand new rebuilt transmission, I wouldn’t think you should have to add any fluids or additives. They’re designed to run on a specific type of oil without needing anything extra. I’ve heard the shifting can be a little stiff for the first couple hundred miles after a rebuild.

If you’re in doubt, call and talk to them about it. Tell them that it’s shifting the same as before and there’s no noticeable difference since the rebuild was done. Better yet, email them so it’s in writing.

As far as adding anything, I definitely wouldn’t. I assume that would absolutely void their warranty, then you’re SOL if something does happen.

What I mean by it driving the same as before is it shifted fine and I had no issues. Same as now, it's shifting fine and I'm happy with it.

My transmission went down hill between 110k to when it died at 115k.
At 110k it made some weird grinding noises. I pumped out 4qts of fluid added back UlV and lubegard. After a week all noises were gone and it drove great.

At 115k it started slipping and not wanting to downshift. Then I lost multiple gears and reverse.

 

[ctechbob]

What I mean by it driving the same as before is it shifted fine and I had no issues. Same as now, it's shifting fine and I'm happy with it.

My transmission went down hill between 110k to when it died at 115k.
At 110k it made some weird grinding noises. I pumped out 4qts of fluid added back UlV and lubegard. After a week all noises were gone and it drove great.

At 115k it started slipping and not wanting to downshift. Then I lost multiple gears and reverse.

Damage was already done at that point. Probably burned up clutches from slipping shifts.

 

[TJC]

I’m sitting at just over 149,000 and getting worried.

Man!!! Count your blessings!

You are 10x further than I got to. I consider you a success story! Each mile is gravy! Just keep doing what your doing.

 

[woodworker]

Man!!! Count your blessings!

You are 10x further than I got to. I consider you a success story! Each mile is gravy! Just keep doing what your doing.

I do count them every time I turn the key. She goes in at 150k for complete fluid change top and bottom. Trans is rock solid so far. I ran two of those 44 cleaners through it and have topped it off with 93 the last several fill ups and this thing is running better than new. Knock on wood, it has been flawless to this point with exception of the drive shaft center bearing but I can’t even complain about that.

 

[TJC]

Have you had to clean the valves (walnut blasting)?

 

[woodworker]

Have you had to clean the valves (walnut blasting)?

Not sure what that is.

 

[Racket]

I wouldn’t add anything unless they told you to. For a brand new rebuilt transmission, I wouldn’t think you should have to add any fluids or additives.

As far as adding anything, I definitely wouldn’t. I assume that would absolutely void their warranty, then you’re SOL if something does happen.

The Lubeguard is indistinguishable from ULV from what I can find and manufacturers seem to affirm that the Lubeguard Platinum is approved. My sense is with the inherent issues the 10R80 the Lubeguard can only improve and extend the life of the truck.

 

[Dr. Zaius]

Not sure what that is.

Since the Ranger has a Direct Injection fuel system, the intake valves are prone to getting g a lot of carbon buildup that can restrict performance.

Walnut blasting removes the buildup.

The 2.3 in the 6G has the additional injectors to prevent this.

 

[2TurboRanger]

You say 10R80 this is a Ranger right ? Rangers have a 10R60

 

[TJC]

Rangers have the 10R80 transmission.

 

[2TurboRanger]

Rangers have the 10R80 transmission.

I did not think it had the same Trans as a F 150

 

[Racket]

You say 10R80 this is a Ranger right ? Rangers have a 10R60

Suncoast Transmissions told me the same thing and asked me for my VIN which I shared. That's when I stopped considering them for a rebuild. I haven't checked back to see if they corrected their website now that it seems Nexgen has the most thorough take on the transmission.

 

[TJC]

I did not think it had the same Trans as a F 150

It is a 10R80, but with a few less clutches in the clutch packs than the F150 has. A 10R60 is even lighter in its build, and is used in the Bronco and several cars.

 

[ctechbob]

It is a 10R80, but with a few less clutches in the clutch packs than the F150 has. A 10R60 is even lighter in its build, and is used in the Bronco and several cars.

The newest Rangers are R60's. The 5th gens are all R80's.

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