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Got all my suspension parts.. i think

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Chriswlbr94

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Honestly I would consider just maxing out the 5100s at 2.5" and call it good. You're going to be paying a chunk of change for another 1/2 - 3/4 inches
That was my initial thought of doing. But then was told by a buddy who has done a lot of suspension work that adding springs would create a better ride, which I'm also after. What if I set the 5100s to the 2.5 setting with the 3" eibach springs to sort of help with the ride quality?
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That was my initial thought of doing. But then was told by a buddy who has done a lot of suspension work that adding springs would create a better ride, which I'm also after. What if I set the 5100s to the 2.5 setting with the 3" eibach springs to sort of help with the ride quality?
I think you may be pushing too much height at that point. The springs say they can provide a 3" lift at the lowest setting on the eibach struts. I'm not sure how well the eibach springs would play with the 5100 in terms of ride height. You could also return the 5100 and go with the eibach struts and keep the springs.
 
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Chriswlbr94

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I think you may be pushing too much height at that point. The springs say they can provide a 3" lift at the lowest setting on the eibach struts. I'm not sure how well the eibach springs would play with the 5100 in terms of ride height. You could also return the 5100 and go with the eibach struts and keep the springs.
Good point, I didn't consider that the springs might just add to the 2.5 height on the bilstein struts. I've had the struts for about 2 ish months now, I'll have to see if they're still within the return window.
 

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Although I'd prefer a perfect fit from the factory, I'd consider drilling depending on the specifics of the part and drill requirement. If drilling the yellow circle area, the left photo has very low risk if damage, especially if you can get it mounted in a drill press for proper alignment. If it's more like the right photo, which depth is more of a concern, I'd be less likely to do it.

SuyjwYD.webp
 


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Chriswlbr94

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Damn that is the jankiest crap I've ever seen from a well known company. Even looks like a cheapass drill they used!!

For real, looks like a one time use harbor freight special drill lol
 

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Damn that is the jankiest crap I've ever seen from a well known company. Even looks like a cheapass drill they used!!
The drill looks like a Metabo, formally known as Hitachi, every bit as good as a DeFault brand.
 
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Chriswlbr94

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Although I'd prefer a perfect fit from the factory, I'd consider drilling depending on the specifics of the part and drill requirement. If drilling the yellow circle area, the left photo has very low risk if damage, especially if you can get it mounted in a drill press for proper alignment. If it's more like the right photo, which depth is more of a concern, I'd be less likely to do it.

SuyjwYD.png
I haven't attempted this yet, but from the looks of the knuckle, it seems like it would be closer to the left picture. The right picture almost looks a bit elongated for the shape of that area of the knuckle. The steel version would take a little more to drill than the aluminum, and of course I have the steel one lol.
 

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I haven't attempted this yet, but from the looks of the knuckle, it seems like it would be closer to the left picture. The right picture almost looks a bit elongated for the shape of that area of the knuckle. The steel version would take a little more to drill than the aluminum, and of course I have the steel one lol.
Can you post photos of the part to be drilled?
 
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Chriswlbr94

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Can you post photos of the part to be drilled?
These are the closest angled pictures I could find on the web. Not sure how much that helps, but maybe it gives an idea of the upper mount hole?

Screenshot_20230120_074032_Chrome.webp


Screenshot_20230120_075322_Chrome.webp
 

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These are the closest angled pictures I could find on the web. Not sure how much that helps, but maybe it gives an idea of the upper mount hole?
I completely misread the OP, I thought it was the new piece to be drilled, not the factory knuckle. Now I'd have to change my opinion and be VERY hesitant to drill them out . I'd be aiming at another manufacfturer which doesn't require permanent modification.
 
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Chriswlbr94

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Called stage 3 and spoke to Lou. He said that the drilling of the knuckle is for the aluminum versions. RC just never updated the instructions for the steel knuckle, so it appears that it isn't necessary to drill with the steel knuckles.
 

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Called stage 3 and spoke to Lou. He said that the drilling of the knuckle is for the aluminum versions. RC just never updated the instructions for the steel knuckle, so it appears that it isn't necessary to drill with the steel knuckles.
The aluminum and steel knuckles both have different tapers from the factory in them. One of the issues some members here had in the past was manufacturer’s we’re making aftermarket products for the aluminum ones and not the steel. They are not universal. So how is RC making a product that is universal? They have different tapers and diameters. This is not a place to Mickey Mouse any mods
 
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Chriswlbr94

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The aluminum and steel knuckles both have different tapers from the factory in them. One of the issues some members here had in the past was manufacturer’s we’re making aftermarket products for the aluminum ones and not the steel. They are not universal. So how is RC making a product that is universal? They have different tapers and diameters. This is not a place to Mickey Mouse any mods
I agree, he told me that if they aren't a direct drop in part, he can work with customer service to refund me for them.
 

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Did you get around to installing the control arms?
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