Stevedbvik1
Well-Known Member
Same goes for ACC usage. Ford unit is compatible and aftermarket units are not.
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I didn't get an updated safety sheet for my truck that was built before Ford even figured out they missed something. You shouldn't be using CC at all while towing anything that requires brakes, but to each their own I guess.Same goes for ACC usage. Ford unit is compatible and aftermarket units are not.
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I thought of something else, the instructions caution you about mounting the remote controller. If mounted in a panel that is too thick, the switch part of the controls won't work. Perhaps temporarily removing the remote control from the panel and pressing in on the knob to see if the knob lights up. If it does, then the panel is too thick, or the remote was installed incorrectly.The knob has never illuminated for me, no matter how long I hold it.
I would have never guessed there were fuses under the fuse box. They all look good.
Either I have a dud of a kit or my wires crossed somewhere. The blue and yellow connections seemed very obvious, everything else is plug and play.
Your “ you shouldn’t “ statements are your opinion and that only. You mention GM so here’s the link from their website that shows they include AEB and ACC in their factory installed trailer brake controller.I didn't get an updated safety sheet for my truck that was built before Ford even figured out they missed something. You shouldn't be using CC at all while towing anything that requires brakes, but to each their own I guess.
All of this arguing would never have happened had Ford just included or grandfathered the brake controller into the Ranger like GM does with the Colorado/Canyon...
I bought my truck for the sole purpose of towing my camper in January of 2019, it took Ford at least a year, prob 1.5 years to get this TBC to market.
If you have a trailer connected the knob should light up BLUE or alternating BLUE/GREEN if the unit has not gone through it's self calibration yet. With the trailer connected and the brakes applied the knob should light up red, the brightness will be proportional to the intensity of the braking. All of this should work even if you have the remote module in to thick a panel. The panel being to thick will only impact being able to push the button for manual mode, in manual mode the light will be green.I thought of something else, the instructions caution you about mounting the remote controller. If mounted in a panel that is too thick, the switch part of the controls won't work. Perhaps temporarily removing the remote control from the panel and pressing in on the knob to see if the knob lights up. If it does, then the panel is too thick, or the remote was installed incorrectly.
I realize that, but I don't know how the OP was testing it. Pushing in on the knob will tell if you have power to the controller if the knob lights up. Perhaps the OP could tell us what test he is using to determine if it is working.If you have a trailer connected the knob should light up BLUE or alternating BLUE/GREEN if the unit has not gone through it's self calibration yet. With the trailer connected and the brakes applied the knob should light up red, the brightness will be proportional to the intensity of the braking. All of this should work even if you have the remote module in to thick a panel. The panel being to thick will only impact being able to push the button for manual mode, in manual mode the light will be green.
Note: you get no lights if a trailer is not connected.
I don't recall ever pushing the button with the engine off or no trailer connected but it does light up BLUE briefly when pushed with or without the engine running and no trailer connected.I realize that, but I don't know how the OP was testing it. Pushing in on the knob will tell if you have power to the controller if the knob lights up.
I wonder if the OP is trying to test using only a volt meter without a trailer or a test bulb connected. The manual spells out a way of testing using a 21 watt incandescent bulb. Attached is the procedure. The Australian word globe is our light bulb. I used an #1156 bulb to test my installation.I don't recall ever pushing the button with the engine off or no trailer connected but it does light up BLUE briefly when pushed with or without the engine running and no trailer connected.
Tested the yellow wire with a voltmeter and have 12.64v at the splice and the input connector to the Redarc ECU.I thought of something else, the instructions caution you about mounting the remote controller. If mounted in a panel that is too thick, the switch part of the controls won't work. Perhaps temporarily removing the remote control from the panel and pressing in on the knob to see if the knob lights up. If it does, then the panel is too thick, or the remote was installed incorrectly.
Is the ground wire securely attached to metal at the kick panel area? That is all I can think of at the moment.Tested the yellow wire with a voltmeter and have 12.64v at the splice and the input connector to the Redarc ECU.
I installed the knob in front of the fuse box like the instructions show. I removed it and tested pressing in, same results, no light. There appears to be plenty of room for it to engage when installed.
I guess my next step is to contact Lumen. Maybe I have a defective LED?
Oh yeah, nice and tight. That is what I used for the negative on the voltmeter.Is the ground wire securely attached to metal at the kick panel area? That is all I can think of at the moment.
Sounds like the problem may be with the Redarc unit not the Lumen module. All the Lumen module does is provide the brake signal to the Redarc module. It has nothing to do with the Redarc not powering up.Update on this. Dealer checked the wiring, everything is connected correctly. The Redarc ECU will not power up. Emailed Lumen again to see if they will help.
This has been such a pain, I just want to tow my trailer.