Driveshaft play

[Bob902]

I did get mine back on Monday. No whine anymore thank God.

The part number for my fix was KB3Z-4W602-A. Driveshaft center support

View attachment 145766

Hopefully that $35 part solves it.

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[Kyp317]

I did get mine back on Monday. No whine anymore thank God.

The part number for my fix was KB3Z-4W602-A. Driveshaft center support

View attachment 145766

Nice!!!! I’m glad you got it back & back to how it should be. Hopefully none of us will have this issue occur again but at least it’s pretty well documented now.

 

[MountainGoat]

Nice!!!! I’m glad you got it back & back to how it should be. Hopefully none of us will have this issue occur again but at least it’s pretty well documented now.

The forum was a great help actually because the sound started right at 30mph and other members on here said the exact same thing and fixed it the same way. So I was able to tell them what it was and avoid any confusion or back and forth.

 

[Bob902]

The forum was a great help actually because the sound started right at 30mph and other members on here said the exact same thing and fixed it the same way. So I was able to tell them what it was and avoid any confusion or back and forth.

You mean the service dudes actually listened?!?

 

[MountainGoat]

You mean the service dudes actually listened?!?

It seems so they ordered the part right away. Or they knew about the issue. The tech's vocabulary was "Yep Ok" and "Yep Sure" exclusively so I don't actually know.

 

[MIBuckeye]

Seems many folks here are overthinking this a bit. If you're not a hack, you can simply pull the front four diff bolts, drop the center carrier bearing, carefully pry open the clamps then slide the front half of the shaft out. No need to touch the rear bolts at all. Clean the yoke and splines, grease it up with Ford TPFE and reassemble using the original boot and clamps. No need to use a whole tube of TPFE either..it will simply reject any more than the tolerances between the splines. Also, no need to mark the shafts either as they are keyed and can only go back one way. The shaft is not balanced on the car, so there is no mating at the front diff either. It's really a simple fix.

Now...if you're not careful and you trash the boot or clamps, well then you will need to replace them.

Like others the front clamp was loose on mine and I believe water was getting inside...take a look and tell me what you think....wtf???... there was also a tiny little bit of red grease (see pic) that had been squeezed out and mostly liquified.. smelled like rear gear dope to me.

This did solve my growing clunk on start and stop...hoping by some miracle it would do something for the vibration, but NO. Same crap their.

I also have a serious clunk, like the rear diff ring is missing a damn tooth when I put it in reverse first thing in the morning though...then it surprises me throughout the day.

 

[NotBudule]

Seems many folks here are overthinking this a bit. If you're not a hack, you can simply pull the front four diff bolts, drop the center carrier bearing, carefully pry open the clamps then slide the front half of the shaft out. No need to touch the rear bolts at all. Clean the yoke and splines, grease it up with Ford TPFE and reassemble using the original boot and clamps. No need to use a whole tube of TPFE either..it will simply reject any more than the tolerances between the splines. Also, no need to mark the shafts either as they are keyed and can only go back one way. The shaft is not balanced on the car, so there is no mating at the front diff either. It's really a simple fix.

Now...if you're not careful and you trash the boot or clamps, well then you will need to replace them.

Like others the front clamp was loose on mine and I believe water was getting inside...take a look and tell me what you think....wtf???... there was also a tiny little bit of red grease (see pic) that had been squeezed out and mostly liquified.. smelled like rear gear dope to me.

This did solve my growing clunk on start and stop...hoping by some miracle it would do something for the vibration, but NO. Same crap their.

I also have a serious clunk, like the rear diff ring is missing a damn tooth when I put it in reverse first thing in the morning though...then it surprises me throughout the day.

My only clunk is coming to a stop, I'm going to try this and hope ...

 

[MIBuckeye]

My only clunk is coming to a stop, I'm going to try this and hope ...

It should do it. Hell, just take the whole shaft out and drive it in 4 wheel. That'll tell you if it's the problem, typically.

 

[NotBudule]

It should do it. Hell, just take the whole shaft out and drive it in 4 wheel. That'll tell you if it's the problem, typically.

I think I have 2 clunks, slip joint and transmission from 3 <2 and 2<1. but at total random times and situations, keeps me guessing ? ... I know in the old days you could drive with the front only , will the Ranger roll without the rear ? Or is there a damn sensor thingy that will be mad ?

 

[P. A. Schilke]

Seems many folks here are overthinking this a bit. If you're not a hack, you can simply pull the front four diff bolts, drop the center carrier bearing, carefully pry open the clamps then slide the front half of the shaft out. No need to touch the rear bolts at all. Clean the yoke and splines, grease it up with Ford TPFE and reassemble using the original boot and clamps. No need to use a whole tube of TPFE either..it will simply reject any more than the tolerances between the splines. Also, no need to mark the shafts either as they are keyed and can only go back one way. The shaft is not balanced on the car, so there is no mating at the front diff either. It's really a simple fix.

Now...if you're not careful and you trash the boot or clamps, well then you will need to replace them.

Like others the front clamp was loose on mine and I believe water was getting inside...take a look and tell me what you think....wtf???... there was also a tiny little bit of red grease (see pic) that had been squeezed out and mostly liquified.. smelled like rear gear dope to me.

This did solve my growing clunk on start and stop...hoping by some miracle it would do something for the vibration, but NO. Same crap their.

I also have a serious clunk, like the rear diff ring is missing a damn tooth when I put it in reverse first thing in the morning though...then it surprises me throughout the day.

Hi Chris,

Your pictures indicate the rubber boot clamp was not tight and you got water into the slip splines....Not a good scenario...

Best,
Phil

 

[NotBudule]

Hi Chris,

Your pictures indicate the rubber boot clamp was not tight and you got water into the slip splines....Not a good scenario...

Best,
Phil

I don't have the tool to tighten those type , I believe a while back you said it would be ok to use "worm" clamps as long as you put 2 together and put the heads opposite each other ? Do I have that correct ? sir?

 

[P. A. Schilke]

I don't have the tool to tighten those type , I believe a while back you said it would be ok to use "worm" clamps as long as you put 2 together and put the heads opposite each other ? Do I have that correct ? sir?

HI Robert,

Yep...correct....

best,
Phil

 

[THLONE]

Here is what I have done in the past on my 96 3/4 t PU. I put a zerk fitting in the slip housing. Then I put a little sealer on the old rubber and used two heavy duty zip ties to hold in place. Still there years later.

 

[RedDakooter05]

HI Robert,

Yep...correct....

best,
Phil

Nice. I wont have to buy a damn clamp tool for just one job then.

 

[MIBuckeye]

I think I have 2 clunks, slip joint and transmission from 3 <2 and 2<1. but at total random times and situations, keeps me guessing ? ... I know in the old days you could drive with the front only , will the Ranger roll without the rear ? Or is there a damn sensor thingy that will be mad ?

No problems driving without the driveshaft. Just make sure it's in 4x4 before you move or it will scream holy hell at ya!

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