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Cannot remove rotor, bent lugs? Not so fast.

onobeka

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I am posting this to help others that may be in the same situation as I was.
It's story telling … sorry to waste your time if you do no care for such a story.

Today I swapped my summer wheels to winter and I thought it's a good time to do an inspection of the brakes. I do this every year once or twice when I swap the wheels. I removed the caliper and tried to remove the rotor. It did move freely, easily so it was not stuck on the hub. Yet I could not remove it. My first fear was bent lugs, as I've overtightened them once. My worst fear was to have to cut the bent lugs. Since I am approaching my mid 40s, I tend to take my time, so I've verified all lugs with a square angle tool. Everything seemed fine yet I could not measure the squareness to the brake disk flange all around the lugs. I hammered gently the flange and around, gently the rotor with a rubber mallet to see how far it would move - I still had the bent lugs idea in my mind. I could not get it beyond half of the lug length off. However the rotor was not touching the threads. Every mm I've moved out the rotor, I've moved it back to check the damage on the thread, trying to identify the bent lug.

I've finally resorted to a crowbar. I've placed it between the rear of the rotor and the knuckle, where the caliper is bolted. I've rotated the rotor and gently pried it out. The whole thing took about 10 mins and possibly 40-50 pry out iterations. When the rotor was about to get off the lugs (still had the bent lug idea in my head) it "magically" moved freely - I was relieved.

The culprit was a huge "lip" (quite wide) of rust on the inside of the rotor flange and cylinder, after the depth of the hub. Sorry for the dodgy explanation. The hub does sit flush on the rotor flange yet it does not touch the rotor cylindrical part. Behind the area where the hub overlaps, rust is in its element. It was about 1mm thick all around the cylinder. My truck is 3y old, 25000km.

What is my take on this: if you do low mileage like I do, it would be good to take the rotors off once in a while and wire brush the inside cylinder. It seems there is a minimal difference between the hub diameter and the rotor. As the inner side of rotors is always more damaged than the outside, due to moisture, the inside of the rotor "drum" is even worse prone to rust.
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RecoilOperated

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I am posting this to help others that may be in the same situation as I was.
It's story telling … sorry to waste your time if you do no care for such a story.

Today I swapped my summer wheels to winter and I thought it's a good time to do an inspection of the brakes. I do this every year once or twice when I swap the wheels. I removed the caliper and tried to remove the rotor. It did move freely, easily so it was not stuck on the hub. Yet I could not remove it. My first fear was bent lugs, as I've overtightened them once. My worst fear was to have to cut the bent lugs. Since I am approaching my mid 40s, I tend to take my time, so I've verified all lugs with a square angle tool. Everything seemed fine yet I could not measure the squareness to the brake disk flange all around the lugs. I hammered gently the flange and around, gently the rotor with a rubber mallet to see how far it would move - I still had the bent lugs idea in my mind. I could not get it beyond half of the lug length off. However the rotor was not touching the threads. Every mm I've moved out the rotor, I've moved it back to check the damage on the thread, trying to identify the bent lug.

I've finally resorted to a crowbar. I've placed it between the rear of the rotor and the knuckle, where the caliper is bolted. I've rotated the rotor and gently pried it out. The whole thing took about 10 mins and possibly 40-50 pry out iterations. When the rotor was about to get off the lugs (still had the bent lug idea in my head) it "magically" moved freely - I was relieved.

The culprit was a huge "lip" (quite wide) of rust on the inside of the rotor flange and cylinder, after the depth of the hub. Sorry for the dodgy explanation. The hub does sit flush on the rotor flange yet it does not touch the rotor cylindrical part. Behind the area where the hub overlaps, rust is in its element. It was about 1mm thick all around the cylinder. My truck is 3y old, 25000km.

What is my take on this: if you do low mileage like I do, it would be good to take the rotors off once in a while and wire brush the inside cylinder. It seems there is a minimal difference between the hub diameter and the rotor. As the inner side of rotors is always more damaged than the outside, due to moisture, the inside of the rotor "drum" is even worse prone to rust.
After having to remove my Crown Vic's rotors with an 8 lb. persuader device on more than one occasion I started putting a few dabs of anti-seize on the hub surface before seating the new rotor. I later learned that they make a rotor pulling tool specifically for this purpose.
 

Langwilliams

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I had an 03 Ranger an I had a rear wheel get stuck to the hub from this. After that happened I started cleaning the hub an putting anti-seize on where the rotor slides on an where the wheel rides on the ring.
 
OP
OP
onobeka

onobeka

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I also use anti-seize on the face of the hub and sides, yet this does not help as the rust buildup I was explaining happens at a point where the rotor does not get in contact with the hub while everything is in place. As soon as I have taken the wheel off the rotor was loose but it would not come off.
There was a collar of rust closing in behind the hub, as when the wheel is mounted the hub protrudes in the rotor. The difference in diameter between the hub and the rotor inside is maybe 2mm. Yet the collar of rust I am mentioning had a diameter smaller than the hub. The only way to prevent this is to apply some anti rust solution that would resist the heat on the inside of the rotor.

I took a random photo from the internet trying to explain with an image. Imagine that yellow circle smaller and smaller in diameter with rust buildup until it gets smaller in diameter than the hub. Exaggerating of course it could close in that inner face of the rotor until it would touch the axle. The rotor is free once the wheel and caliper are off, you can pull it a few mm but then it stops on that collar of rust.

E4F1626C-6F90-4694-9841-ABB2AF3CCED2.jpeg

It’s not like this is the first issue with car brakes I had but this type of problem is new to me. Ford chose to put a tiny diameter difference between the hub and the rotor that in a matter of two years the rust is an issue. It’s not a tight fit to be hub centric on the entire hub yet tight enough to be a headache.
 
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micl9

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Good info OP
Will need to check this out before I need to do a brake job. Could turn a few hours brake job into a weekend project!
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