Best Practices for Wiring 360 Bed Rack Lights

[Lateknightucd]

I know we have quite a few lighting...enthusiasts here so I wanted to pose a few questions.

I have an AuxBeam 6 switch panel already wired up and working with a pair of Diode Dynamics fogs with the amber backlights. Currently the backlight and the fogs are on two separate switches. The DD lights handle turning off the backlights when the fogs are turned on. I'll be moving the backlight to the DRL trigger in the future.

For bed lighting, I have 6 DD 1" x 2" pods in white with amber backlights. The plan is 2 left, 2 right, and 2 rear for scene/utility lighting while camping with the backlights for general camp ambiance. Each "zone" will be switched separately with the backlights tied together on a fourth switch. So I'll basically need four "hots" and four grounds coming out of the engine bay/relay box. I'm most used to residential electrical work so I have a question in automotive wiring. Should I rig up some sort of junction box with a heavier gauge ground coming up along with the switched hots for the various zones (i.e. five wires coming from the engine bay) with each light connecting into a bus bar for its respective hot and ground? Or am I overthinking it and should just tie everything together and stash it all in the T-channel of the Xtrusion Overland rack and cover it up? I know in residential wiring a sub-panel is pretty common but I'm not sure if I'm making this harder on myself than I need to. I'm really just curious how best to tie together six ground or backlight wires into one knowing that I don't want to run from each light pod all the way forward.

Thanks!

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[OFC Ranger]

I run 4 left flank, 4 right flank, 4 rear, 6 forward, ditch, one bumper bar, and 8 running lights. All of my lights have the ability to be constant on or momentary. They also share a dual strobe channel (every other light alternates in a back and forth with a choice of 21 patterns. I also have a 100W speaker not to count other various 12v powered auxiliary items. Majority are controlled by dual Feniex 4200 Mini's.

Best practice is each light, or each group type of lights (if not high powered) gets its own relay. At bare minimum 1 relay per button on your controller. The relay controls all power going in and going out, the button controllers should be used for triggering the relay only.

This is my primary junction. However I have the same thing on a smaller scale in the engine bay for any lighting located on the front end of the truck to keep the line providing power as short as possible.

Here is my setup (old picture at this point, this is only about 75% of the required wiring).

A large 80A relay is triggered by keyed power, that relay then feeds the other 12 relay channels. The 12 relays then feed power to the 12 channels when the trigger line receives power. Those 12 relays are triggered by the button controllers.

Its ok, it will take a moment to digest.

 

[Lateknightucd]

Thanks, that’s helpful. I was hoping you’d weigh in. I’m already set on the relays for each light with the AuxBeam box. You’ve got a really clean set up which is what I’m looking for. I’m going to work on sketching out a few options but I like the idea of a separate junction box…especially considering the future expansion options it provides.

 

[lukdeg]

I run 4 left flank, 4 right flank, 4 rear, 6 forward, ditch, one bumper bar, and 8 running lights. All of my lights have the ability to be constant on or momentary. They also share a dual strobe channel (every other light alternates in a back and forth with a choice of 21 patterns. I also have a 100W speaker not to count other various 12v powered auxiliary items. Majority are controlled by dual Feniex 4200 Mini's.

Best practice is each light, or each group type of lights (if not high powered) gets its own relay. At bare minimum 1 relay per button on your controller. The relay controls all power going in and going out, the button controllers should be used for triggering the relay only.

This is my primary junction. However I have the same thing on a smaller scale in the engine bay for any lighting located on the front end of the truck to keep the line providing power as short as possible.

Here is my setup (old picture at this point, this is only about 75% of the required wiring).

A large 80A relay is triggered by keyed power, that relay then feeds the other 12 relay channels. The 12 relays then feed power to the 12 channels when the trigger line receives power. Those 12 relays are triggered by the button controllers.

Its ok, it will take a moment to digest.

that pic is porn for me :O

 

[OFC Ranger]

Thanks, that’s helpful. I was hoping you’d weigh in. I’m already set on the relays for each light with the AuxBeam box. You’ve got a really clean set up which is what I’m looking for. I’m going to work on sketching out a few options but I like the idea of a separate junction box…especially considering the future expansion options it provides.

I also forgot to mention, while some may not find it required, I would put everything behind blocking diodes (basically power can only flow one direction). You can get a pack of twenty 15A diode blockers for like $10 on Amazon. This is also how I can make my lights do multiple functions even though they only have 1 single power line. This also serves a secondary purpose of preventing any black flow back in the system. So for example if I have a light that is interconnected with factory running lights electrical mapping it can't somehow shit the bed and manage to zap the factory wiring.

I have two other junction boxes in my engine bay. These contain a couple of relays and provide power and ground to any auxillary items from the hood forward to keep the lines transferring power as short as possible. They also contain some terminal blocks to which I have tapped the hi-beams, left/right turn signal, and running lights. That way I have a single source point for instant adding/removing any lighting I want connect to my systems.

 

[OFC Ranger]

that pic is porn for me :O

I have a bit of a problem with OCD... I've done so many variations (especially when I had my rear seat delete) it probably borders on clinical...

 

[lukdeg]

daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaamn

 

[Lateknightucd]

I also forgot to mention, while some may not find it required, I would put everything behind blocking diodes (basically power can only flow one direction). You can get a pack of twenty 15A diode blockers for like $10 on Amazon. This is also how I can make my lights do multiple functions even though they only have 1 single power line. This also serves a secondary purpose of preventing any black flow back in the system. So for example if I have a light that is interconnected with factory running lights electrical mapping it can't somehow shit the bed and manage to zap the factory wiring.

I have two other junction boxes in my engine bay. These contain a couple of relays and provide power and ground to any auxillary items from the hood forward to keep the lines transferring power as short as possible. They also contain some terminal blocks to which I have tapped the hi-beams, left/right turn signal, and running lights. That way I have a single source point for instant adding/removing any lighting I want connect to my systems.

This is awesome. And I love the future-proofing of already having tap points in the engine bay for whatever you decide to add!

 

[Lateknightucd]

daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaamn

What he said!

 

[OFC Ranger]

This is awesome. And I love the future-proofing of already having tap points in the engine bay for whatever you decide to add!

As time goes on I add more and more gear. For example I have a new 12v fridge being delivered today to mount in my bed. I already have power towards the back, an open relay for it, an open fused channel and an open trigger channel ready to go on my button controllers. All I have to do is cut off the cigarette lighter adapter it comes with, splice in a water proof connector, and then run the connector to my ground junction point I have in the back and the power line up to the "brain box".

10 minute job at most.

 

[SurfRanger]

Since you mentioned hiding the wires in the bed rack extrusion; One thing that hides it super well and keeps it protected are these t-track cover inserts. It leaves a gap for the cables and makes it completely invisible. Worked out great for me (obviously get it in black and can cut it to size).

 

[Lateknightucd]

I found these on Amazon along with a rubber version that comes in a roll. Any thoughts on the rigid plastic vs. the softer rubber? Other than saving on shipping costs of course as the rigid comes in 5 foot sections.

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