Another Towing Question

[TimmyB]

The RedArc only comes with the extra module in Ford's kit, which stupidly wasn't available when the truck first came out. This AEB stuff only came to light after Ford finally released their Ford branded kit, catching everyone who already had a brake controller installed off guard.

So, what IS this extra module?

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[TimmyB]

The RedArc only comes with the extra module in Ford's kit, which stupidly wasn't available when the truck first came out. This AEB stuff only came to light after Ford finally released their Ford branded kit, catching everyone who already had a brake controller installed off guard.

OK. Watching the install online, it looked incredibly easy. Even I could do it! But, he never did the fifth wire that I was expecting to see. Obviously, not the "Ford" version of the brake controller, then.

 

[TechnicallyReal]

So, what IS this extra module?

It's a box by Lumen that reads the brake light signals instead of the brake pedal signal. This way it can tell the brake controller to kick in during automated braking where the lights are activated but the brake pedal is not.

What sucks about it (aside from the extra cost) is that rather than it connecting somewhere under the dash, it connects to the CHMSL (center high mounted signal light) above the rear window, which means running the wire down the length of the truck and up into the headliner at the back. It's super annoying and clips are going to get broken along the way. The connector that taps into the CHMSL is also a bit finicky to assemble and it's awkward to get it plugged in up inside the headliner.

It's the box at the bottom of this photo (also much of the coiled harness at the top is actually wiring to reach the CHMSL):

 

[D Fresh]

It's a box by Lumen that reads the brake light signals instead of the brake pedal signal. This way it can tell the brake controller to kick in during automated braking where the lights are activated but the brake pedal is not.

What sucks about it (aside from the extra cost) is that rather than it connecting somewhere under the dash, it connects to the CHMSL (center high mounted signal light) above the rear window, which means running the wire down the length of the truck and up into the headliner at the back.

Stupid question. That CHMSL wire has to come from somewhere. Has anybody found it nearer the front of the cab? Could it be easier to tap into at the source, rather than removing half your interior?

 

[TechnicallyReal]

Stupid question. That CHMSL wire has to come from somewhere. Has anybody found it nearer the front of the cab? Could it be easier to tap into at the source, rather than removing half your interior?

Someone in the other thread that I linked earlier has located the points under the dash. I don't think anyone has tried tapping into them yet.

As for why Ford doesn't setup the kit to use those points.. speculation is that the types of connectors where the points live are too complex and delicate to be messing with. However it probably wouldn't be that hard to tap into the wires that are coming out of the existing connectors there, if someone was so inclined.

Personally I ran the wire to the CHMSL and replaced a few broken clips. It was a tough job, but only has to be done once.

 

[D Fresh]

Someone in the other thread that I linked earlier has located the points under the dash. I don't think anyone has tried tapping into them yet.

As for why Ford doesn't setup the kit to use those points.. speculation is that the types of connectors where the points live are too complex and delicate to be messing with. However it probably wouldn't be that hard to tap into the wires that are coming out of the existing connectors there, if someone was so inclined.

Personally I ran the wire to the CHMSL and replaced a few broken clips. It was a tough job, but only has to be done once.

I just hate removing plastic panels. The clips/tabs/interlocking push here to release crap ALWAYS break and can be a pain to source.

Between the breaking and my OCD about interior rattles it's always an anxiety riddled experience.

 

[2.7EcoBoost]

First thank you for responding. Sounds like changing the rear shocks are in order. You are correct the curt is 6000 max without a distribution hitch however 8000 with a distribution hitch.

Take some time and get your hitch set up perfected. There are some good youtube videos out there for reference. Getting the weight distribution as close to perfect as possible makes a huge difference on sway, porpoising etc. and will make the whole experience better.?

 

[TechnicallyReal]

I just hate removing plastic panels. The clips/tabs/interlocking push here to release crap ALWAYS break and can be a pain to source.

Between the breaking and my OCD about interior rattles it's always an anxiety riddled experience.

100% with you there. My past vehicles (Hyundai & KIA SUVs) had me thinking it would be no big deal since I almost never broke clips or struggled with panels in those vehicles.

The Ranger on the other hand.. made me never want to pop panels again. That being said, the only clips actually broke were clips that held the door sill plates down, and I was able to source replacements from AliExpress (I think I linked them in the other thread). The clips that held the other panels in place were all metal iirc.

 

[TimmyB]

It's a box by Lumen that reads the brake light signals instead of the brake pedal signal. This way it can tell the brake controller to kick in during automated braking where the lights are activated but the brake pedal is not.

What sucks about it (aside from the extra cost) is that rather than it connecting somewhere under the dash, it connects to the CHMSL (center high mounted signal light) above the rear window, which means running the wire down the length of the truck and up into the headliner at the back. It's super annoying and clips are going to get broken along the way. The connector that taps into the CHMSL is also a bit finicky to assemble and it's awkward to get it plugged in up inside the headliner.

It's the box at the bottom of this photo (also much of the coiled harness at the top is actually wiring to reach the CHMSL):

So, if I'm understanding correctly, this is just going to give my trailer braking power for the difference in time between AEB kicking in and me actually touching the brake pedal.
Once I touch the brake pedal, the accelerometers in the device itself will realize the severity of the braking action and apply appropriate power to the trailer brakes, correct? I'm pretty sure I'm not going to mess with that, especially since I'm not towing anything on a regular basis any more.

Thanks for the info! I appreciate the picture you attached, as well. Really helps me see the issue.

 

[TechnicallyReal]

So, if I'm understanding correctly, this is just going to give my trailer braking power for the difference in time between AEB kicking in and me actually touching the brake pedal.
Once I touch the brake pedal, the accelerometers in the device itself will realize the severity of the braking action and apply appropriate power to the trailer brakes, correct? I'm pretty sure I'm not going to mess with that, especially since I'm not towing anything on a regular basis any more.

Thanks for the info! I appreciate the picture you attached, as well. Really helps me see the issue.

I feel that's a bit optimistic but you're not wrong.

Depending how severe the situation is, you might not get your foot the brake pedal in time to make it count, or maybe you don't get to it at all. I could envision the truck decelerating hard enough that if your foot was on the gas pedal it would only end up deeper into the gas pedal as you try to prevent you body from lurching forward into the dash.

 

[TimmyB]

I feel that's a bit optimistic but you're not wrong.

Depending how severe the situation is, you might not get your foot the brake pedal in time to make it count, or maybe you don't get to it at all. I could envision the truck decelerating hard enough that if your foot was on the gas pedal it would only end up deeper into the gas pedal as you try to prevent you body from lurching forward into the dash.

I understand, but I am a driver with 800,000 miles of driving under his belt and I've had one fender scrape that did $1100 damage to my brand new Audi (which means a scratch and a dent). The reason for that is I don't allow myself to be in those situations where I don't see what's happening several cars ahead and behind me at all times. Driving a 24,000 pound RV with 5,000 pounds towed behind it demands it, as well. If I were to be pulling a trailer at speed, I can guarantee you the ACC would be on, which would take over well before any panic stop. If not, then I'm not doing my job and I shouldn't be driving. If I were driving around town, which would be incredibly rare for me with a trailer, I would definitely be aware that AEB could be an issue, so I would be doing as I usually do: give myself plenty of extra stopping room.

Thanks, again!

 

[TechnicallyReal]

I understand, but I am a driver with 800,000 miles of driving under his belt and I've had one fender scrape that did $1100 damage to my brand new Audi (which means a scratch and a dent). The reason for that is I don't allow myself to be in those situations where I don't see what's happening several cars ahead and behind me at all times. Driving a 24,000 pound RV with 5,000 pounds towed behind it demands it, as well. If I were to be pulling a trailer at speed, I can guarantee you the ACC would be on, which would take over well before any panic stop. If not, then I'm not doing my job and I shouldn't be driving. If I were driving around town, which would be incredibly rare for me with a trailer, I would definitely be aware that AEB could be an issue, so I would be doing as I usually do: give myself plenty of extra stopping room.

Thanks, again!

Not trying to be argumentative.. but how does that experience help when you glance one way while an animal runs out from another? Or what if the truck acts on a false alarm? I've had mine warn me of a collision twice now when there was nothing around.

 

[TimmyB]

Not trying to be argumentative.. but how does that experience help when you glance one way while an animal runs out from another? Or what if the truck acts on a false alarm? I've had mine warn me of a collision twice now when there was nothing around.

And, I understand and actually appreciate your point(s)! I'm not trying to come off as this infallible, "it'll never happen to me" type. I've simply had these technologies on two different vehicles from two different manufacturers and I trust in them based on my experiences. Again, it might be a moot point because with our lifestyle switch, we're no longer pulling with this vehicle; this vehicle is being pulled. I'll have to make the decision when I get there but I'm pretty sure I'll be like the others who simply are ok with it, knowing the limitations. Being in the RV world, you can't believe how many of these people think it's ok to be pulling thousands of pounds with NO TRAILER BRAKES because "they've never had em before"!

 

[Kemo Sabe]

All you need at this point is a Trailer brake controller. I have the Ford Redarc one. Install was a pain but it works w/ the emergency braking which is really nice in my opinion.

Ford dealer installed my brake controller. $703$$$$ for controller and installation. I feel ripped. But, service writer said there were no wires to use to the seven pin plug in my 2019, XLT.
WHATEVER they did worked.
Just towed a 2200# trailer with about 1500# of cargo 500 miles with no problem.
Good luck on your installation. Yes, I needed my brakes.

 

[Kemo Sabe]

I have to say that I was not aware of stored feature, having that is good news. It does concern me that bluetooth is required on the panic button and could possibly lose it.

my factory Ford brake controller has a panic button in the center of the regulator dial.

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